bad brake booster, can i use a prelude on better, or just use accord one?

[KB7]

i am pretty certain i need to replace my brake booster.

car has 255,000 miles
93 lx sedan,
drums in back
no abs
on goodyear assurances- incase thats related

i have a squishy brake pedal

i have replced the master cylinder 3 times,autozone NEW*
bled the brakes countless times - (properly). as well as flushed a few times
replaced all rear brake drum components
rebuilt the front calipers and replaced almost/all components there as well
and replaced all cylinders.

when i bleed the brakes the pedal does get hard to press when the car is off

aside from brake lines i dont think there are any more things to replace

i also do not have a vaccuum leak to the booster

if i have missed anything else to check please do let me know
because i do not hear the hissing noise that normaly tells of a bad booster

so i am going to the junk yard in a week to grab a booster, and i was wondering if there are any more options on other honda/acuras that are better functioning, unless of course those boosters would just cause me to constantly lock the tires.

EDIT
if i need to change the master cylinder to match the different booster, that is not aproblem at all for me

thank you for looking
KB7

[GeoffM]

When the seals go bad on the master cylinder the brake fluid can leak into the vacuum booster. If that happens it won't work anymore. As for the prelude, can't help

[Cb_JoeyG]

im in the same boat as you mines got 335k on the odo and my master cyl is leaking and im pretty sure its gotten into the brake booster.. I work at a parts store and even with my discount its well about 150$ for a new booster

[KB7]

im in the same boat as you mines got 335k on the odo and my master cyl is leaking and im pretty sure its gotten into the brake booster.. I work at a parts store and even with my discount its well about 150$ for a new booster

everyone i have ever talked to say that boosters going out, even at super high mileage is pretty rare, so grabbing one from a junkyard is not a bad risk. sometimes you can even see the mileage of the cars in the junkyard, (assuming that the odometer has not been replaced/tampered with)

heres a few prices listed from the junkyard near me (pick and pull, san antonio)
pulled right off their site
541-1 Brake Master Cylinder Car $12.99 $2.99 $15.98
541-2 Brake Master Cylinder & Booste Car $40.99 $3.99 $44.98
541-3 Brake Power Or Hydro Booster Car $28.99 $2.99 $31.98
535-1 Brake Proportioning Valve Car $9.99 $0.00 $9.99

(first price = cost of part;
second price = core
third price = adjusted cost, [cost minus core])

besides most of the parts stores only carry remanufactured boosters; last i checked, (today), and they are 150

[Darkcloud]

Yes you can you a bb4 prelude brake booster.

The booster is your weak link to your brake system seems like.

[KB7]

new info, if i have to use the same master cyllinder from the car i grab the booster from, i can do that also by swapping mine out at autozone, as it seems sometimes they need to be swapped in pairs

[Granite CB7]

It is best to not mix and match different m/c and boosters. Afew have run into issues when doing abs removals-instead of keeping the stock abs m/c, they downgrade to the non-abs m/c while keeping the abs booster. I believe the pushrod length is different.

You could certainly upgrade the booster and m/c to something alot better but w/ off the shelf parts, there can be headaches w/ hybridizing. W/ enough effort and modding, anything's possible.

Just be mindful of the diff. fitting used on the abs m/c.

[GeoffM]

Just be mindful of the diff. fitting used on the abs m/c.

Found that out the hard way. The socket closest to the firewall is bigger than the other one. (On ABS, not ABS same size)

[Granite CB7]

^exactly, not a huge deal, but when not wanting to mod anything, it is a problem. It has to be done on the ABS removal if you are keeping the orig. m/c, just reflare the DX/LX line for the M12 ABS fitting.