Please help with test pipe/cat and Bisi header leak

[Interlude]

Hello!

I would appreciate it if someone knows of a direct-bolt on stainless test pipe or cat from the Bisimoto F22 header to a 3-bolt 60mm cat back (34").

I know I can get one made at a local shop but just wondering if there's one ALREADY MADE. I was debating on getting (2) of the adjustable Omni/Blox/Blackworks test pipes and mate them together to the 34" length but would rather have one item long enough for it.

Thanks so much for the help!!!

[Interlude]

Bisimoto header leak???

The Bisimoto header is definitely a piece of art and crafted to perfection in almost every way but I am having issues with exhaust leaks where there's a gap between the primary and downpipe.
Anyone have this also???

It has the usual tight slip fit design with the (4) tension springs but after securing it with a rubber mallet all the way into the recess and also with the springs the exhaust leak still occurs in 1-2 pipes (gap clearly visible). I already had one header from them remade just weeks ago but the second one I got is almost still the same (except half the gap size as the last one and in a different primary) but they guaranteed me it was leak tested and passed.

I've got to seal the gap(s) but I don't want to send it back again cause for ONE they don't seem to want to do it again and TWO I'd hate to reinstall that thing cause it was a bit of a pain to install and fit in the bay.

Please help.

Thank you so very much!!!

[GeoffM]

Have you tried emailing them?

[Interlude]

Yup tried emailing them but for now I've not heard back and they usually always get back the next day but I have a feeling they don't want to do anything else further considering their previous emails with this since they claim everything should be perfectly in order.
I'm pretty fine with it considering I don't want to ship another manifold back to them including uninstalling it (taking multiple parts off to get it out) and eat the $65 shipping cost again (they don't refund) and than go through the same reinstall after the waiting period. But I would like at least some answers why this is happening again and if there is anything I can do to seal the gap(s) like if high temp putty bonder/sealer will work or wrap with DEI cool tape or something along that lines without taking that thing out again.

Thanks!

[Ralphie]

That is expensive....the work to get it to fit right shouldn't fall on you.

if it was me, id send it right back, but thats just me.

When you mess it up trying to get it to fit then they wont want to be bothered.

[nine_deuce]

I agree. For what you paid for that header, there should be NO issues whatsoever. Especially if you told them what you had.

[19dabeast85]

I'm so glad I didn't waste my money on one of those headers. Not that I ever would, the price is retarded.

Yeah, bisi headers are complete junk, nowhere near as good as dcsports, ebay, or any of the others know to leak and crack and restrict flow. Noobies reading this: I'm JOKING!

I think the OP isn't seating the two pieces all the way together. I slammed my downpipe into my carpeted floor until the heavy upper section was all the way down...no damage at all. I plan to install it in one piece. I'm replacing my front cross member so I'll pull that and slip it up from the bottom (fingers crossed). I can't imagine trying to marry the two pieces while on the car....near impossible. Make SURE it's seated properly before jumping all over bisi for producing a piece of "junk".

[Interlude]

I already tried banging it in with a rubber mallet to death. I found that's all it can go in when measured in comparison to the recess. Although I wish I had the luxury of installing it as a 1-piece item but due to the room constraint even with the new traction bar in place it just couldn't be done

Thanks for the help and the comments!

[Granite CB7]

Ah yes, welcome to the world of slipjoints! My Bisi header has been bittersweet, great perf. but the leak is such a pain in the ass. My 02 bung aims towards the block rendering it unfunctional and I found a pinhole in one of the welds. This was long before the group buy though, I've had the header for well over a yr. now.

I've tried afew things for the joints, best thing I've done so far is a combo of header wrap and fiberglass rope (for wood stove doors/seams) to seal them but allow for slight movement and vibration.

Get to them asap or they will completely screw up your interior and carbon up the engine bay, plus it's unhealthy.

[Losiracer2]

yeah i had this same issue with a Hotshot 4-1 header that I bought a couple years ago. I ended up having it tig-welded to make it once piece but once I did, it wouldn't fit right at all, so i sold it for 400 bucks, and broke even on it. I bought it for 260 and paid 120 to tig weld it and install the flex pipe and 20 for that exhaust patch thing which didn't work at all, the exhaust gases just ate through that like nothing.

It was a PITA too, I almost melted my alternator plug, melted half my energy suspension insert and had to notch the crossmember....all went to waste, I got fed up with all the annoyances. But I guess it wasn't really meant for a CB chassis, I shoulda done the research and found out it was purely made for CRXs.

Thats the price you pay with custom pieces that are tight fitting. Those slip joints are known to leak if not seated perfectly, the middle two leaked in that hotshot header It was setup like I I I I instead of in a square pattern.

[19dabeast85]

It's my understanding that bisi's fabricator tests all the welds with water for leakage....not sure if they test the slip joint too. I haven't installed mine yet so I might go ahead and fill it with water since it's already put together and see if I get any leakage.

[19dabeast85]

Granite CB7 had one of the very first ones evidently before full chassis fitment was performed....I know quite a few of the guys from the group buy have already installed theirs and have not reported any issues with o2 fitment or leaking here.

I feel sorry for you nine_deuce, you seem to go through life only looking at the negative and jumping to conclusions based on inconclusive evidence. It must get stressful. Chil out, relax, the world doesn't revolve around everything being perfect all the time. Things happen.


To the OP: Honestly, my header was VERY difficult to fit together and that makes me think that a rubber mallet might not be enough. The rubber will absorb most of the energy and it's likely not fully seating the pieces together. You can't bang yours on the carpet like I did so try sourcing a rubber-coated dead-blow hammer. It'll deliver a much more solid blow without damaging the DP. You may also try drilling a 2.5" hole into a wood 2x4 block and slip that on the dp and hit it with a regular hammer, maybe put a shop rag between the metal and block.

[Interlude]

I measured and marked the primaries with the length of the recess it fits into and pushed it to that and even got it to go slightly past it so I know it's all the way in but there's still the leak.

This is what Janet wrote back to my email in regards to me stating that my manifold is leaking for the second time (I told her that I just received the 2nd reconstructed top portion but with still a significant leak present just with a slightly smaller gap in a different primary and asked her if I received the wrong manifold since she reassured me in many emails previously how their stringent process works for a product of theirs to pass and make it to us):

"Everything is documented. You did receive the right header. Let me share some light as far as our header process.

Here is the process of what happens after you place the order for your header:
Your order gets processed it takes one business day after the order has been taken, to get into our systems. Once that has been done, the header spec sheet is sent out to you and filled out by the client. Then the Engineers take your information that you provide us and put it through extensive algorithms. Once they have determined the proper sizes, bends, welds, cuts, and "swirl-pattern" inside your collector, they take the information and deciphers the proper materials. Once the proper material is designated, they take the material to the metallurgist to inspect for porosity and consistency in the materials, Once the material is signed and inspected, we take it to our fabricator (two-hours away) Our fabricator then takes the information from us and starts to make a jig and cuts in the appropriate places and figures out which bends, etc. Once the fabricator finishes, one of our Engineers inspect to make sure that it was accurately made to spec. If everything checks out okay, we then put it through vibration testing. Once it passes vibration testing, we send it to Lab to get it H20 tested to make sure there are no leaks. Once it passes inspection, it is stamped and etched. Now, in your case since it is coated we then take it to get coated. The material is sprayed on , dried, re-sprayed, dried , then baked in the oven, then polished, then checked again by one of our Engineers to ensure that it is up to par...
Then when it is approved and passed inspection, it is signed and stamped, and shipped off to you! =)"


Just letting you guys know what happens from A to Z over there and getting it to our hands even though it unfortunately has a second leak in it. I have a feeling that it seems they don't want to correct it a second time which is fine by me as stated previously due to the heavy inconvenience in all manners just as long as my plan works to wrap the area with DEI Cool Tape which can withstand 2000 degrees and has a strong adhesive backing for vibration/movement resistance.

I'm crossing my fingers on this one

[GeoffM]

Have you emailed them this thread?
Opinions like nine_deuce s might make them try a little harder to help you

[hondamanf22]

Interlude

I think you should try oiling and heating the down pipe section to let the metal
expand a little so you can get it in more just my 2cents.