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Clutch bleeding issues.

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    Clutch bleeding issues.

    I'm working on bleeding my clutch (again.)
    I have new master and slave cylinders that were not bench bled, and I've been unable to get pressure in the system since the install.

    Currently, I'm doing the bleeding alone.

    The technique I am using involves running a line from the bleeder valve back into the reservoir. The end in the reservoir is completely submerged, so it can not draw air back in.

    I have bled two full bottles of fluid through the system previously, before doing this return line technique.

    I currently have half-pressure, but not enough to fully disengage the clutch. I am pushing no air bubbles through the line, and fluid is flowing freely through it. I honestly have no idea what to do from here!



    I ran into a friend of mine at Autozone (while I was shopping for a syringe to push the fluid through... another technique...) and he told me that the method Honda suggests is to pull the pedal up once, open the bleeder, push the pedal down once, close the bleeder, repeat. Until I get some help, I can't try that one.





    So, does anyone have any ideas? The lack of air bubbles has me perplexed. The line is looped back into the reservoir, so any air that comes through should bubble to the surface, and not re-enter the system...







    #2
    My friend and I just messed with it. It may be a faulty master cylinder (even though it's new.) He brought out his new master cylinder, and it returns forcefully after you press it in. Mine seems to have about a half-inch of play in the piston, and shows a bit of dampness in that half-inch as it comes out of the boot.






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      #3
      Ok so you say you have not bench bled? You need to get a friend to pump and hold pedal down and instead of opening the bleeder nipple on the slave, loosen up the line coming out from the master to bleed from there. Try that a couple of times and then bleed normally from the slave. You can't get air out of the master without bench bleeding. The way I do it is a workaround if you've already installed the master without bleeding. I've experienced this issue before when replacing a master.

      Comment


        #4
        I hadn't thought of doing it that way. Good idea!

        I don't understand why I'm not able to get the air out of the cylinder while it's hooked up, though... am I just not able to push the piston in far enough while it's attached to the pedal?

        I've even tried a hand pump, and that did absolutely nothing. Pulled a full bottle of fluid through, too.






        Comment


          #5
          I've been in that situation twice before. Once with a prelude and once with my bike. You have to bleed the master before you can bleed the whole system. It's mind boggling because you can bleed fluid through all day and still not have the pressure you're looking for. If you're stuck give my method a shot before you give up.

          Comment


            #6
            Keeping in mind I have an auto, and therefore no actual clutch experience...
            Eric the Car guy bleeds it your way, I think.
            For the master cylinder, I use the motive power bleeder. I think it'd be a tight fit, but you could probably get it on the clutch.
            The Page of their single adapter products
            The bleeder I bought

            IIRC, the bleeder I bought came with a square adapter. Not sure though.
            I think the biggest problem you'd run into is finding something to wrap those hooks around. But, like I said, I have an auto. So no real experience.
            MRT
            37.5 MPG, AC on, cruising at 80.
            30.0 MPG, AC on, aggressively driving around 90.
            27.5 MPG, no AC, cruising at 90 with occasional gridlock. 40 degrees Fahrenheit

            Lots of DIY videos specifically for our car

            Get some awesome wipers! <-- It's a DIY
            Originally posted by Tippey764
            I think driving your car naked will cause the engine to overheat
            Originally posted by deevergote
            sneaky motherfucker

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Chrisisiced View Post
              I've been in that situation twice before. Once with a prelude and once with my bike. You have to bleed the master before you can bleed the whole system. It's mind boggling because you can bleed fluid through all day and still not have the pressure you're looking for. If you're stuck give my method a shot before you give up.
              I'll give that a shot. In the worst case, I'll just yank the cylinder I have and use my friend's. His is a genuine Honda part, where mine is a crap Autozone one. I'll bleed that one properly before I put it in!






              Comment


                #8
                ok so u have pedel...good did u ever adjust the master cylender rod to the pedel itself?u have to adjust it u have the full pressure then re bleed...even if u didnt adjust it ur not getting the full bleed out of it..adjust that rod and then get back to us...

                my new turbo build

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                  #9
                  My friend installed the master while I was installing the slave, so I'm not 100% sure what he did. I was thinking that might be part of it, though. Stupid Youtube won't let me upload the video I took (it's on my Facebook, but I don't think I can link to that here.)






                  Comment


                    #10
                    I've had this problem myself

                    It's the worst time I've EVER had bleeding the clutch on ANY car.

                    What I did was gravity bleed the master, then I removed the rubber hose from the reservoir with a syringe I bought at my local parts store and some rubber hose,

                    Fill the syringe with brake fluid and just keep pushing brake fluid through the system until no air is coming out of the slave ( with the slave open of course ) .

                    Once there's no air coming out close the system pump the pedal and bleed the usual way just to make sure all the air is out.

                    The problem is the system is very big and a lot of air can get inside.

                    I hope this helps, I was pulling my hair out when I ran across this myself.
                    Last edited by Monza; 03-19-2011, 08:39 PM.



                    MRT - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=172713

                    1993 Accord Ex

                    Comment


                      #11
                      hey try this turn the car on and bleed it with the car running that is the way i did mine and it work ...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Monza View Post
                        I've had this problem myself

                        It's the worst time I've EVER had bleeding the clutch on ANY car.

                        What I did was gravity bleed the master, then I removed the rubber hose from the reservoir with a syringe I bought at my local parts store and some rubber hose,

                        Fill the syringe with brake fluid and just keep pushing brake fluid through the system until no air is coming out of the slave ( with the slave open of course ) .

                        Once there's no air coming out close the system pump the pedal and bleed the usual way just to make sure all the air is out.

                        The problem is the system is very big and a lot of air can get inside.

                        I hope this helps, I was pulling my hair out when I ran across this myself.
                        That's what I set out to do today, in fact. visualpoet told me about that method (that he got from you, I believe). How do you gravity bleed the master?
                        Man, I feel like such a noob...

                        Originally posted by sweet91accord View Post
                        hey try this turn the car on and bleed it with the car running that is the way i did mine and it work ...
                        That's one thing I didn't try. Of course, the system isn't attached to any vacuum lines or anything... I don't see how it would make a difference. I just need to fill the tranny and charge the battery to get it started (HOPEFULLY it won't give me problems... been unstarted for 2.5 years.)






                        Comment


                          #13
                          There should be a allen key screw on the side of the master, just crack it loose until it dripping steady to gravity bleed it.



                          MRT - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=172713

                          1993 Accord Ex

                          Comment


                            #14
                            i think that the rod on the MC is all the way in, basically not pressing the rod all the way in, thus "your problem" (screw out the rod, and get rid of the play)

                            if thats not the problem....

                            vaccum line+turkey baster(stuffing syringe), fill up the reservoir, start sucking, close the bleeder, slightly tap the pedal a couple of times and a big tadaaaa

                            you need a beer bro thats the main problem
                            Originally posted by deevergote
                            Just do what PR CB7 said.

                            "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              yeah you HAVE to bench bleed BEFORE installation onto the car.

                              I bought a new master cyl. for a 91 LX coupe, even though its an Autozone one, I bench bled and it has a nice hard pedal. Didn't even have to bleed the lines after that. Braking is good and its been about 1000 miles since the master was replaced and no signs of a squishy pedal.

                              So that's most likely your problem. Bench bleed!

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