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H22 swap in my 93 CB7

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    #1

    H22 swap in my 93 CB7

    Hello all and thank you all in advance.

    I'm going to be doing a full H swap in February. I know there are probably tons of info on this forum. I would like to hear from anyone who has experoiance with this actual swap. When I do start the project, I will post all that is done.

    First- I have the F22A motor with an auto Trans. JDM Depot here in jersey will be where I'm purchasing my motor from. I want to make it manual Trans and try to convert it to OBD2 by using the 97-01 prelude H22 motor. Any feedback will help.

    I know I have to buy the oil pump as AEM. The motor will be complete with ecu and harness. I know I'll also have to move some mounts around. I have welding equipment so that won't be an issue.

    On another note, if turbo was going to be an issue, if lowering the compression would be recommended. Changing pistons, reringing sleeves or just resleeving. What pistons, or size would work best. Any help would be helpfull. I'm doing all my research now so by the time tax time comes around I can have a game plan.
    Tags: None
    #2
    All the info you need is in the swap section.

    Dont go to OBD2, buy an OBD1 motor/tranny. You dont need an aem oil pump. You also dont need to move any mounts. ESP makes an auto to manual mount kit. Works perfect and thats what I have on my swap. I also did an h22 auto to manual swap.

    Do some more research before throwing yourself into the turbo world. Get the facts straight about swapping the motor first, then learn about boosting.

    Comment

      #3
      Man you need to start from square 1. Turbo H22's are a lot of work, might as well turbo the F22 you have. Also everything you are asking about is a quick search away. You got a lot of bad info in your post, how are you going to rewire the car for OBD2? The motor you want is an OBD1 H22A early model with the closed deck. Sleeves don't have rings, so no need to "rering" them.

      Also you only need to buy one mount all other OEM mounts swap over. Only buy all new if your current ones show signs of fatigue.

      Also are you aware of the costs associated with this?

      Do research on FRM vs iron cylinder walls as well. You will need it.

      Comment

        #4
        As stated above, don't waste your time or money changing over to OBD2. You have OBD1 with your current set up and you might as well stay there. I too have done the H22a swap and it bolts right in. Once you get it in and you get behind the wheel it will be a night and day difference compared to the F22. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!

        Comment

          #5
          Thanks guys. I kinda knew the turbo was going to be something done eel after I do the swap. Just something I thought would be a great idea. An even better idea when you have the money to do it rite.

          I kinda figured it was going to be a hell of a job going from OBD 1 to 2 but thought I would still ask.

          Sleeves do have rings. On the top, where the top of the sleev meets the head gasket. Maybe not all brand sleeves.

          I will post all. Going to look threw the swap section.

          Comment

            #6
            You must not be familiar with Honda motors. Stock there are no sleeves just an FRM liner, and I have never seen an aftermarket sleeve with rings in an H22A. If you plan to sleeve the block do it before you install it while you are still building it. If you plan to turbo it YOU NEED TO SLEEVE IT.

            EXAMPLE:
            http://www.preludeonline.com/f77/sle...4-sale-232817/

            EDIT:
            This confused me further...
            First- I have the F22A motor with an auto Trans. JDM Depot here in jersey will be where I'm purchasing my motor from. I want to make it manual Trans and try to convert it to OBD2 by using the 97-01 prelude H22 motor. Any feedback will help.
            If you are still buying the motor, buy it with the manual. Save the time and cost of doing the trans swap. If you already have the motor, why are you buying another?
            Last edited by wildBill83; 10-24-2012, 06:20 PM.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by wildBill83 View Post
              If you plan to turbo it YOU NEED TO SLEEVE IT
              No you don't.

              OP...worry about the swap first and then if you want to think about boosting the H do it. Unless you want to do it all at once since the motor will be out of the car and easier to work on.
              Last edited by mozzandherb; 10-25-2012, 08:15 AM.

              SOLD!!
              Boosted H22
              375whp 298 ft/lbs at 15psi
              MEMBERS RIDE THREAD<<<CLICK FOR VIDS AND COOL PICS

              Comment

                #8
                Personally I would sleeve it and run low compression forged pistons for a safe turbo build.

                You might be able to get away with Mahle gold and a light hone on FRM, but it is not going to be bulletproof and FRM is prone to oil blow by.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by wildBill83 View Post
                  Personally I would sleeve it and run low compression forged pistons for a safe turbo build.

                  You might be able to get away with Mahle gold and a light hone on FRM, but it is not going to be bulletproof and FRM is prone to oil blow by.
                  No boost build is "bulletproof"..the Mahle's are a great option for some pretty good numbers both on a dyno and for the price. Im making close to 400whp with the Mahle's which IMO is too much for the street, but with a well put together set-up and the right tune, I would suggest this over re-sleeving the block, unless you have another $1000 to spend.

                  SOLD!!
                  Boosted H22
                  375whp 298 ft/lbs at 15psi
                  MEMBERS RIDE THREAD<<<CLICK FOR VIDS AND COOL PICS

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Open or closed deck?

                    The OP hasn't stated the year of the H22A, and newer 97-01 H22A is open deck, USDM and JDM.

                    If he buys a closed deck then for sure sleeving won't be a large concern, but if he gets the cheaper/newer H22A it will be open deck and will need atleast a block guard and at most a full sleeve.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I was looking at the H22 that comes out of the 93-95 Prelude. OBD 1 motor. Comes with Trans, harnes and CPU. I want to do all the work while I have the motor out. After that purchase ill have about $2500.00 left over for parts, gaskets and such.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by ZoneOneCB7 View Post
                        I was looking at the H22 that comes out of the 93-95 Prelude. OBD 1 motor. Comes with Trans, harnes and CPU. I want to do all the work while I have the motor out. After that purchase ill have about $2500.00 left over for parts, gaskets and such.
                        $2500 is enough to get your motor ready for turbo. Unless you want an N/A beast, $2500 could take you pretty far.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Personally I would only buy a JDM H22A if you plan to just drop it in with no modifications.

                          If I was building a boosted build I would find a H22A1 block in the junkyard and peice it together part by part. This lowers your initial buy in cost.

                          I'm doing a N/A build on an H22A4 right now, starting from block up. I aquired a long block and stripped it, machined it, and I am currently placing my components back in it. I'm not going for high compression or boost, but maybe a bit of cam.

                          H22A1 is a closed deck USDM OBD1 motor. Very similar to H22A, and can be just as powerful, if not more, if you are building it component by component and sleeving it is not as big of a deal as an open deck motor.

                          I was confused because you said you wanted an OBD2 H22A and that is an open deck JDM engine. You would definately want to rework the whole thing to get a reliable boosted motor.

                          Just trying to suggest a cheaper more reliable route since you seem to want to rebuild the motor.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Honestly I would go N/a rather than boost. Boost is just as bad as crack once you go for it your going to want more and if you get too much at the wrong time the car will get sick and blow up lol

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by wildBill83 View Post
                              Open or closed deck?

                              The OP hasn't stated the year of the H22A, and newer 97-01 H22A is open deck, USDM and JDM.

                              If he buys a closed deck then for sure sleeving won't be a large concern, but if he gets the cheaper/newer H22A it will be open deck and will need atleast a block guard and at most a full sleeve.
                              False.

                              All JDM H22s are closed deck. Check CyborgGT's build thread in N/A, he has a 97 JDM that he's wrenching on right now.

                              Just because it's open deck doesn't mean it's "cheap". Honda in NO WAY intended for these motors to receive boost regardless of the deck configuration.

                              Block guard's are by no means necessary with an open deck design, and they have had their failures under decent to large amounts of boost. Using one won't guarantee his sleeves won't go out of round, or that the block guard might leak. If he's interested in making big power, he'll sleeve; otherwise just run the risk, and have some money saved up.


                              To the OP, you've probably asked one of the top questions regarding the H22, and you've personally admitted that there is a plethora of information on this website already, so why aren't you searching?

                              And who the hell told you to use an AEM Oil Pump? What's wrong with OEM?
                              '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

                              Originally posted by deevergote
                              If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

                              Comment

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