1993 Honda Accord drivetrain swap?

[{R}oadTrIp]

I own a 1993 Honda accord with an JDM h22a in it and Im curious if it would be possible to make it an AWD conversion. Taking the drivetrain out of a Honda CRV? Im also wanting to boost it, however i think i want to go supercharger, what is a suggested supercharger for a JDM h22a?

[lbus9168]

For superchargers the jackson racing sc kit can be hard to come buy but is used alot. You could twin charge it (turbo and supercharged) make some real power. As for AWD I'd recommend importing a 4ws accord as they have the tunnel for the system, remove 4ws, add crv Awd.

[steelbluesleepR]

The CRV conversion has been talked about several times, but never done. It's also an extremely weak setup with a tiny rear diff. you'd be better off mating the rear end from something like a 240 to an AWD trans.

Really though, if you have to ask, you probably don't have the skills. an AWD conversion on a FWD car that wasn't designed for it is a MASSIVE undertaking and requires a huge amount of fabrication skills. For an example, check out AlmostJDM's RB25/RWD swap thread. it took him years and he still parted it out before it was finished.

Basically, if you want an AWD car, buy one. It will cost you more than a decent EVO just to come out with a 25 year old car that's been hacked together.

[Jarrett]

Not to mention the hassle involved with finding a matching ratio front differential if you did go with a a beefier rear.

Check this page out for some information about modifying a FF chassis to but an AWD drivetrain in there. He's actually finished and driving now, but this journal shows some of the incredible amount of work required.

[deevergote]

Don't forget that the H22 spins counter-clockwise, like the B, D, and F engines. Damn near every other mass-produced engine ever made spins clockwise. That means the CRV or 4wd Civic are pretty much the only AWD options that aren't going to require some serious additional work. Those two options are not performance oriented in the least, so they would probably not hold very much power before they give out. If you wanted to use a more performance-oriented AWD system, like that found in the Eclipse or Evo, you would need to reverse the rotation of the H22. It has been done, but it's not common, and not simple.

As mentioned, AWD will require gutting your car like a fish. You will literally need to cut a driveshaft tunnel, and probably have to relocate the fuel tank to clear a differential. Major work would need to be done to the rear suspension to accommodate drive axles.

It would be easier to buy a Mitsubishi Galant VR4 and do the cosmetic modifications necessary to make it look like a CB7.

[dj_ender]

They are weak? Guess you should tell my buddy that...lol AWD Civic EG, running a 9.56.

[deevergote]

One successful example is not substantial evidence. Additionally, what parts is he running? EGs didn't come AWD, so he clearly did custom work. Is that drivetrain 100% original parts from a 20-30 year old non-performance vehicle? Also remember that an EG is significantly lighter than a CB. Greater weight puts more strain on the drivetrain, especially in high power applications where the car is driven hard (and we'd all be lying if we said we'd build such a thing and not drive it hard!)

[dj_ender]

It's a CRV setup, I'll inquire what exactly is under it.

Edit: " Wagon diff. , dear axles, driveshaft, Rsx front axles, Crv tranny " "Mostly" all OEM parts are used.

[deevergote]

Just a bit on Honda's Real Time AWD system that is found on the CR-V...

For most of the time, only the CR-V’s front wheels are driven; it’s only when they begin to lose grip that the Dual Pump system starts to send power to the rear wheels. This is achieved by a hydraulic torque-split system, consisting of a conventional front-wheel drive arrangement, complete with transfer case, a propeller shaft running the length of the vehicle and a Dual Pump system integrated with the rear differential. This is the heart of the system and comprises two hydraulic pumps, one driven by the front wheels via the prop shaft, the other by the rear wheels via the rear differential.

During normal levels of grip the front and rear wheels, and their respective pumps, turn at the same speed; hydraulic pressure circulates between the two pumps, but no pressure is generated. If the front wheels begin to lose traction and start to spin faster than those at the rear, the two pumps turn at different rates; hydraulic pressure proportional to the difference in their speeds is generated, which in turn opens a valve body and activates a mechanical, multi-plate clutch.

This clutch then connects the front prop shaft to the rear diff, which feeds precisely the correct amount of torque to the rear wheels to re-establish overall traction. The more the front wheels slip, the greater the torque fed to the rear wheels.

[Accrdwgnguy]

As Deev's quote suggests, the CRV system is not true AWD; more of a "if you need it, it's there" type of deal. Great for your Mom to get home in that blizzard, not so great for running thru the twisties.

OT, I'm more of a fan of a selectable AWD system where you can choose between AWD and 2WD. Jeep had a selectable case in their higher trim models in the 90's and early 2k's. Was shiftable like a normal t-case except it had a center differential and the lever would allow you 2WD, AWD, 4WD hi and low range too. 4WD would lock the front and rear driveshafts together like a normal transfer case. Always wanted to build an Eagle wagon with that case and a 5 speed.

[deevergote]

Always wanted to build an Eagle wagon with that case and a 5 speed.

Totally OT... but yes, yes, yes. I would rock the shit out of an AMC Eagle!

There was one for sale at a garage near my house when I was 18 or 19. Rare even then, back in the late 90s. Took me a while to figure out what the hell it was, and I've loved them ever since.

[ukemike]

Maybe the easiest way to get 4wd in an accord would be to take a donor accord with a matching engine and transmission cut out the whole front support structure. Weld and fab that in place of the rear end of the target car. It would be easiest if they were both auto-trannies. Weld the steering rear steering in a fixed position, and presto you have 4wd and twice the power!!!

Now when I say that would be the easiest, I don't mean it would be at all easy, just easier than your proposal.

I've been dreaming about doing that with an Odyssey for my next LeMons car. I somehow thing it will remain a dream unless I win the lottery.

[illinois_erik]

Hmm they had the JDM Accord CL2 AWD wagon that was H23A Vtec powered..so theres your drivetrain, at least its OEM and not anemic or H2B like a crv/wagovan clusterfuck would be.


the transmission:




either way itll be expensive and complicated. Id drop the money into something AWD out of the box, even a 2wd eclipse chassis has the provisions to swap in gsx goodies

[deevergote]

Weren't all CL2s automatic, though?

[Jarrett]

Yes.

So far, the most effective method I've seen for driving the rear wheels in a Honda has been to do what ukemike suggested. I've seen quite a few done that way with H22As, J32/J35s and even others that will retain an engine in the front as well.