JDM H22A swap CB7 boggz and dies?

[KrAx_Cb7-808]

I have my 1992 CB7 Honda Accord sedan that i recently did a complete JDM H22A DOHC VTEC swap with 5spd trans. Everything was included but the ecu and harness. Its done and swapped in but since the ecu is not here i heard that it could temporary run on the stock accord ecu just without the vtec so i did but of course had to modify the dizzy by switching its from OBD2 with internal coil to my F22A6 OBD1 external coil which was running fine and i drove all around just no vtec for 2-3days had A/C on and stereo bumping too drove just fine.
https://youtu.be/i-fVmNVGOIE
Ok, but now today i go to try drive it all of a sudden doin this bogg down and die off issue(as if being starved for gas and/or air)

So now it starts it idles but soon as i turn on an accessory(lights, A/C, stereo,etc.) or just even try revv up engine it immediately bogz then dies off.

Start it up again takes a while but starts idles but thats nothing on at all this time i stomp gas it probly only rev up to 1400rpm then straight boggz down and dies. So again start idles fine this time i try step slowly till floored it intermittently revved boggz revv boggz so I try lift stomp lift stomp to keep it running but constant bogg down as soon i let up just dies off. Cant even move the car itll just die. What might cause this??

My troubleshoot begins:
* so i try PT6, P0A and P12ecu (waiting for P13 & harness to come in mail.) All the same. However it seems the P12 had better results but still same bogg die issue

* I tried 2 different EGR's that do work. Same issue

* tried 3 different resistor boxes. Same

* tried 3 different throttlebodies w/TPS. Same

* tried fuel rail injectors. Same(i started car with fuel rail injectors out to see the sprays all are consistent but thats just at cranking)

*fuel psi is at rail is 38psi

*tried 2 different O2 sensors. same

*checked timing with service plug jumper its on point. Same

*pulled valve cover to double check mechanical timing sync of cams to crank.(incase something eg. Cam off a tooth) all in spec. Same issue

* ECU backup reset each time. Same

*i tried just completely disconnect battery for 24hrs or so. Try again.
Same

*stock air filter & duct is clean no obstruction

* PCV is good and new. Same


What the hell is goin on here it seems almost as if someone sabotage it cause i was just driving fine idled fine a/c on and stereo on three or four days ago now... why all a sudden get this bogg and die issue?? Even attempting various part checks changes still same. Am i missing anything or overlooking something??


>*>>(Please i already know that obd2 obd1 and ecu conflicts if u are a straight only by the honda book guy what comes with what and goes with what. But i changed internals of dizzy from my f22a6 obd1 to the body of obd2 jdm dizzy for H22A using PT3 ecu and it ran ok for few days w/o vtec tho. Casual drivin cruising with accessories on not exceeding more then 4krpm just to be safe. But since this bogg and die issue that suddenly developed overnight while troubleshotting i have the P12 ecu on it for now. As i await yet for the actual propper P13 ecu with vtec harness to come.

I'm worried that even with my P13 ecu and vtec harness comes in tomorrow that i change it that this issue still remains. Ive researched the ecu pins differences they use the same pinouts so nothing is crossed, bout the only difference is colors used of wires between years and the addition of vtec/knock sensor. But still despite colors pins at ecu is same.

Sorry been away for a min but i solved all the iissues of running the engine. It came down to the very specific vacuum hose locations to manifold i basically had to compare prelude chassis vacuum diagrams with my accord chassis vacuum diagrams and reference with specific manifold i using and added issue was also base gasket of egr. So now vacuum hose arranged proper to their specific locations starts runs drives vtec and all. Its all good now and driveable, just a whole nother issue i tryina overcome is this motor runs so extremely hot! So much so i feel an extra radiator and fan setup maybe needed. I cant even run a/c long or drive on a already hot day...

i dunno wussup with this new website update wont lemme repost or reply my own threads. Etc. I been long time member i have posted and subscribed as well as started threads posts discussions etc.

[sonikaccord]

IACV
MAP sensor
CKP/CYP/TDC sensor (my money is on these)
Vacuum leak (honestly would be loud enough to hear, but check anyway)
Tstat ground

[deevergote]

Are any of the ECUs throwing an error code? If so, start there.
Does this issue only happen once you’re up to operating temp?

[G. Wiffington]

Well like you said you can "use" the Accord ECU to start...but just wait for the
P13 before you make any other moves. The ECU is the brains & the H22 & F22
are different for sure.

[KrAx_Cb7-808]

Update P13 & vtec harness is in

Ok so now i got the P13 ecu and the vtec harness of course had to make the taps to ecu harness plugs A4 vtec solenoid switch D3 knock sensor and D6 vtec psi sensor. Plug everthing in. Reconnect battery pull 7.5A fuse to ecm reset, then jjump in start em up. FUUUUUUCCCCCKKK same shit still goin on but now it barely idles.

So i stomp tbe gas a few times kept varying the pedal it keeps wanting to bogg then revv then bogg then revv then die. WTF?! Man this is really gettin on my nerves. Jump service connect blinks 1 long then it blinks 7/8 quik ones then not sure if its 1 or 17 or 18. Fuckit look up 1 7 8 17 18 71 81 if even...
1= H02S
7= TPS
8= TDC
17=VSS
18/71/81 no exist. Someone else mention i should try 180 the dizzy tried didnt even start. But i dont get it cuz i found 1st cylinder TDC by pulling spark plug stuff napkin rotate crank poof it pop out thats TDC on compress stroke #1 confirm flywheel is at T. Pull valve cover all cam gears aligned. Pull dizzy again it points to #1 the very top sensor that curves singularly is magneticly align with sensor the key on cam side align the scribed marks. My timing light service jump connect align with middle red mark. Do ecu reset un jump service connect start em up took a while crankiing finally it starts but simply dies. Nothing on. Start it again it no matter if i try step pedal while cranking or hold it or pump it but eventually get started = Barely idles at 500rpm fuel psi at rail is between 36-40psi. Ocassionally it will allow me to step the gas pedal very slowly but consistently varying the pressure and it will glide thru revvs up to 5krpm but nearing 3/4 throttle it boggs and then i lost the consistency of the step already it boggz down and dies no matter i let up stomp it or half it i try to quikly but steadily step it just dies. FUCCCK I ALMOST WAS GOIN THROW MY TOOL BOX THRU THE FRIKEN FRONT WINDSHIELD. I ended up just slammin the hood and callin it a day! Cuz its gettin to a point were I MAY LOSE IT....

[Rilas]

Have you replaced the fuel filter? I've seen brown fuel with silt pour out of the back side of one that I replaced. It could just be too clogged to flow when asking for anything more than an idle.

[sonikaccord]

HO2S and VSS would not cause your symptoms, but TPS and TDC being out can.

Do you have a multimeter? Are your TPS and EGR plugs switched around? You're using the OBD1 dizzy and all the wires are good?

[VickiStype]

JDM H22A swap CB7 boggz and dies

Hi,* I,m new to this forum. Anyone know would JDM S15 power fc fit in ADM S15 ECU Plug? If does, When can i find wiring diagram for wiring swap?

[Grumpys93]

Hi,* I,m new to this forum. Anyone know would JDM S15 power fc fit in ADM S15 ECU Plug? If does, When can i find wiring diagram for wiring swap?

This is an accord forum, not a 240 forum. Probably won’t find much help here for that.

[deevergote]

Spammer. They’re getting creative.

[G. Wiffington]

What Distributor are you using? I am not sure why you would be getting
that TDC code.

[G. Wiffington]

Also, how is your O2 sensor?? New? Old? Even running one?

[deevergote]

He says he tried two different o2 sensors... though I’m curious as to what brand they were. If they weren’t NTK or Denso, chances are they aren’t working probably. And a faulty o2 sensor can indeed cause bogging issues on an h22. I’ve experienced that one firsthand!

[KrAx_Cb7-808]

Ok im so sorry guys i have been coming back trying to reply update of this all but whatever the reason the site wasnt allowing me to do it.

But now it seems i can. So the friken problem that i had boiled down to simply the specific vacuum line connections to what ports of manifold. But in my defense I'm running a kinda hybrid type intake manifold using the F22A6 runners with double stack IAB adapters with japan version 01 H22 plenum & throttle body. The vacuum ports vary in size and location between all these manifolds USDM - JDM F-series/H-series from 1990-02 Accords/1992-01 Preludes SOHC DOHC and having to cross reference vacuum line diagrams between what i could find of certain year and model. So like my map sensor(using my oem CB unit at firewall/capping off the TB located one) the USDM F22A6 EGR vacuum fuel psi reg vacuum and IAB vacuum were the reasons for my issues. i had too many vacuum lines not enough ports so i tapped and wyed some together.

So learning experience(the hardway tried and true as always) I discovered just how important vacuum port size and location is per respective item that uses it and how regional and year model differences/advances are. Certain items require a certain vacuum amount and at certain time so manufacture does it by port size and location at intake manifold and further manipulate it with electronic sensors and vacuum accumilators. So my H22 DOHC VTEC is now running a JDM OBD2a 2001 Prelude P5P ECU with the rywire reverse harness swap conversion with add-on harness for the new stuff my chassis never came with and runs like a champ now or should say has been since after this post and the fix after the extreme headache. LOL . I'm sorry i couldnt get yall updated as per the fix timely better late then never i guess cuz still felt the need to get back to this. Idk why the site wouldnt let me before.

PS: I have run successfully temporarily my H22 DOHC VTEC 5speed swap on my OEM auto PT3 ECU but the redline is way lower (6200rpm vs the 8600rpm) there wont be any vtec and u may find that upon manually shifting the allowable rpms may not be as much as it could be if were using Manual ECU also the speedo may not work. U will also notice the trans lights blinking D4 and S but thats the result of auto to manual swap still using auto ecu with the auto trans plugs not plugged in obviously. But temporarily running it only cuz i needed to drive as its my Daily and i was on hold for any manual OBD1 ECU or rather the P13.

[Grumpys93]

Thanks for checking back in and updating up. Glad you figured it out. Crazy how something like this can be over looked.