New Clutch not Disengaging. Took back Apart. Nothing looks Wrong??

[Pro199]

Does it only grind when you have the revs high? On my 2001 accord coupe i know if i was revving all the way up and went to shift fast from 4 to 5 it would grind everytime. If i gave it just a second in N before trying to put it in 5 it wouldnt grind. It seemed to be just the syncros needed a sec cause the trans had around 200000 miles on it. I think it also did it from 1 to 2 but i havent had the car for like 6 years now i just know that i had to wait about a sec. it may have been 2 to 3 i really cant remeber the exact set but i do remember the waiting a sec to shift. I even used to double clutch in the set that did it for awhile till i relized i could just shift but waiting in N for a second. I know the 8th gen civic si has a common problem from 1 to 2 if you shift to fast it grinds or so i have heard.
but if you are just driving normal and shifting down low in the rpms it shouldnt be grinding if it is there may be others problem. If it does it all the time are you good enough to rev match? If you rev match and it doesn’t do it i expect it to be the syncros. Just my 2 cents though. Does the shifter itself seem to having a “pop”feeling when you put the clutch in and pull it out of gear? That could indicate that the clutch isnt working properly and that could be quite a few things not letting it work proper. I don’t think worn cable bushings would make it grind. Just really hard to find your gears while shifting since the shifter would have play and excessive play if the bushings are super worn out but shouldnt make the gears grind. Going into gears slowly should never make it grind. Going into gears fast is where they tend to grind since the syncros cant keep up.

[underPSI]

Still thinking about my issues I'm wondering if worn cable bushings can be the cause? Wondering if there's excessive play causing the transmission to not fully go into gear fast enough? Car is currently being painted so unfortunately I can't check but I'm definitely curious. What piqued my interest was reading through other threads and learning companies sell improved shifter bushings.

[underPSI]

Man best thing I can recommend and what worked for me. Process of elimination. Have you tried 2 different master's and 2 different slaves? Stock style master right, not s2k? If those check out, I'd drop the trans. Inspect everything real good. Especially the pressure plate. Making sure the teeth are in spec and none of the spring tabs inside are broken. You running a pilot bushing? what flywheel?

Any mods to your shifter?

The fact that you say, if you shift really slow it doesnt grind, does sound like bad synchros but I think its unlikely every synchro is bad. Usually its just a couple at most

Will do. Master cylinder is new OEM. Slave cylinder is a NAPA part and was installed by previous owner. I assume it's good. Maybe not. Hmmm.... I hate parts swapping but at this point I'm out of options so I'll start with the cheapest and easiest.
Flywheel is OEM and untouched and what came on H22 from HMO. Don't believe there was a pilot bushing but I could be mistaken. If so, it's original OEM.
Release bearing is new OEM installed when clutch was installed. I did not use the one provided by Exedy.
Clutch fluid is new and bled correctly.
Clutch height is been adjusted for low and high engagement points and is now set to OEM spec's.
Not sure why clutch could be damaged as it only has around 5k miles on it.
No mods to shifter. Did inspect cables and grease shifter base just to eliminate any possibilities.

Car is currently being painted and should be back in a couple weeks. I'll install OEM slave cylinder. If no difference I'll drop the transmission to inspect the shifter fork and clutch. If they check out I'm at a loss. I'll put it on a crate and ship to Synchrotech. They'll get it right for sure.

Thanks for the help.

...

P.S. If you do make the drive please go to a JY before hand and pick up a set of the same TL rims, since the local yard here doesnt put rims out in the yard and instead scraps all rims...SMH

You stated you're in VA. I'm in NC. In case you're not familiar check out Beaver's Honda salvage. Chances are good they'll have what you want.
https://www.beaverscarsalvage.com/

[boulky12]

Sorry Man, you are the first person I know that this setup didn't work. Like I told ya, you got a 12 pack with your name on it whenever you make your way to Virginia. Glad its solved.

P.S. If you do make the drive please go to a JY before hand and pick up a set of the same TL rims, since the local yard here doesnt put rims out in the yard and instead scraps all rims...SMH

haha Its all good bud. I'm just happy to be able to drive her again. Maan would be awesome to throw back some beers with ya and check out your build. My wife and I like to travel so I will keep that trip in mind.

I hear ya on the rims. Didn't have luck at yards here either. Found mine on FB marketplace. But yeah I'll look around for a set before I make the trip.

[boulky12]

Dang. Glad to learn your problem is fixed. But my problem still exists. I've done the CMC and CSC. No air in lines, either. Clutch pedal has been adjusted to different engagement points, low and high. Now clutch height is set to factory spec's. Still no difference. Grinds every gear sometimes not going in at all. Similar to your issues. Like the clutch isn't fully disengaged. I've been through Honda MTF, Redline MTF, Synchromesh, and now am on straight 40 weight (which has had the most improvement.). Again, it's like the clutch isn't fully disengaged or every synchro is bad. Or it's almost as if the shifter throw isn't long enough. If I shift really, really slow no grinds. Aggravating.

Man best thing I can recommend and what worked for me. Process of elimination. Have you tried 2 different master's and 2 different slaves? Stock style master right, not s2k? If those check out, I'd drop the trans. Inspect everything real good. Especially the pressure plate. Making sure the teeth are in spec and none of the spring tabs inside are broken. You running a pilot bushing? what flywheel?

Any mods to your shifter?

The fact that you say, if you shift really slow it doesnt grind, does sound like bad synchros but I think its unlikely every synchro is bad. Usually its just a couple at most

[Grumpys93]

Thanks for offering your help Raf. I appreciate it.

Nick, you owe me a friggin 12 pack for putting me thru this haha. Nahh I understand this setup works for many other CB's. I must've just got a bad CMC. DAMMIT BLOX!

Sorry Man, you are the first person I know that this setup didn't work. Like I told ya, you got a 12 pack with your name on it whenever you make your way to Virginia. Glad its solved.

P.S. If you do make the drive please go to a JY before hand and pick up a set of the same TL rims, since the local yard here doesnt put rims out in the yard and instead scraps all rims...SMH

[underPSI]

Dang. Glad to learn your problem is fixed. But my problem still exists. I've done the CMC and CSC. No air in lines, either. Clutch pedal has been adjusted to different engagement points, low and high. Now clutch height is set to factory spec's. Still no difference. Grinds every gear sometimes not going in at all. Similar to your issues. Like the clutch isn't fully disengaged. I've been through Honda MTF, Redline MTF, Synchromesh, and now am on straight 40 weight (which has had the most improvement.). Again, it's like the clutch isn't fully disengaged or every synchro is bad. Or it's almost as if the shifter throw isn't long enough. If I shift really, really slow no grinds. Aggravating.

[boulky12]

Smh.. Yeah man. Freakin ridiculous. I wouldn't have thought it would be a brand new part from a reputable company like Blox.. but sure enough.

[Raf99]

HAHA........ ya, the one part you didn't try right

[boulky12]

Thanks for offering your help Raf. I appreciate it.

So the new stock master cylinder came in. I realized I can't use the steel braided line that came with the Blox kit. Fittings at the master are different. And I cut my stock hardline when I put the steel braided one.. So off to the junkyard.. Got lucky and found a modified 3 piece clutch line of a 5th gen. Much easier than having to fish out the factory clutch line. Bolted right up. Also picked up an original CB clutch fluid reservoir.

Brought those home. Changed out the master, bled it, aaaand IT WAS THE FREAKIN CMC THE WHOLE TIME! Clutch and Trans are now working perfect.

Nick, you owe me a friggin 12 pack for putting me thru this haha. Nahh I understand this setup works for many other CB's. I must've just got a bad CMC. DAMMIT BLOX!

Can't believe she's finally out the shop

[Raf99]

I found it funny that someone in here almost has the same problem with the same parts. At this point I'm out of ideas. I still blame the Exedy pressure plate. It looks like it's missing 1/8" of an inch of play and it looks like you'd adjust the pedal to make up for that. Maybe it's just not possible to make up the 1/8" with the S2K setup. Not sure. The next thing to try would be a H22 pressure plate and clutch on the H22 setup. I wish you lived close, I have two spares and would be happy to help.

But at this point if you put the old setup back it should work obviously. Did you reach out to Exedy on this yet?

[boulky12]

Raf,

Thanks for the explanation. Looking at the pics you can see the bearing has been touching. And does feel it is engaging. The pedal feels like a normal clutch pedal. I do not have a micro camera but thanks for the idea. I might buy one. Would be nice to see what's going in in there.

Yes, I feel like if the culprit was the exedy pressure plate, swapping my stock one should've fixed it, but no change. And yes I have tried adjusting the clutch master rod under the dash. I also have pics from Grumpys93 of where his pedal and rod is. (He's also running the s2k cmc) Mine is pretty much the same as his and feels good where it is.

The stock stuff is F22. And it is not even OEM, it is cheap LUK brand. I do not have any H22 clutch or pressure plate. These trans actually come come on F20B but either way, it should be all interchangeable from what I've read.

[Raf99]

Yaa ok.

So you're just rev matching the gears but in the air. (Explained: when your clutch stops working when driving, technically if you sit at the proper RPM you can pop it in to gear without using the clutch. Big rigs do this etc etc etc; you may already know this stuff).
Your clutch is not working. And looking at the marks on the pressure plate, it doesn't even look like the release bearing is touching / engaging. Got a micro camera that can look in the trans while you push the pedal? (in at the shift fork)

But ya, could also be hydraulic pressure, but doubt you can mess that up. Easy to bleed and no points of failure really. From this point on, put all the original stuff back on. I'm 100% positive it's the Excedy pressure plate measurement is the issue but not sure why the OEM one did not work. And then there's the clutch adjustment rod under the dash. An improper adjusted pedal or push rod length will also cause this issue. It will bolt up and it will push fluid, but you're not getting the full plunger length engagement.

Is OEM stuff F22 or H22 ? (do you have a H22 OEM clutch & pressure plate?)

[boulky12]

I'm following as well. Same engine, same transmission, same clutch and similar (although not as bad) symptoms.

Interesting..

[boulky12]

Any updates on this ?

Not much. Put it all back. Thought I had my old Cmc but guess I threw it away, so got one coming. Threw away the reservoir with it, so gonna have to hit up the yard for one of those.

Gonna try this, although I really don't think its the issue. Fork seems to be moving plenty, so dosent seem like hydraulics, but I don't understand why its not actually disengaging! Everything inside seems fine, tried swapping flywheels, swapping pressure plates, with/without pilot bushings.. its like it all gets locked up when I put the PP on or when I bolt the engine/trans together..

Yesterday, when I put it back together again, I tried of course seeing if I could get lucky. Still wouldn't go in gear, on ground, of course. But this time when I was testing up in the air I noticed, I didn't even need to use the clutch to get in gear and spin the wheels. The second I start putting it in gear, no clutch pedal, wheels start spinning, and goes right into gear. I'm pretty sure I wasn't able to do this before. So is it staying engaged now??