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Radiator fan not working

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    #16
    Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
    Ya so I think you said you have no continuity between the fan wire (down by the fan connector) 7 the relay end (fuse box). So at this point you are either tracing the whole wire and looking for damage or running a new wire. 14AWG should do, but go larger wire if you don't have the proper size (never smaller). Most of these issues exist at the connector themselves or with bad grounds.
    I have 14awg, but at the distance, its slightly below the 20amp fuse rating, so I stepped it up to 12 for headroom.

    I havent attempted repair yet because I stumbled upon something really confusing and I'm lost and hestitant to do any work before I get confirmations.

    Do note, I was wrong about no. 25 fuse size. It is 20a, not 30a.

    So what I know thus far, at least assumed.
    Pin 1 is yellow, sometimes yel/blk wire cooling fan timer input 12v
    Pin 2 is a white, main +12v power input for radiator fan
    Pin 3 is a blu sensor wire.
    Pin 4 is the radiator fan wire, going directly to the fan. (iirc, I made sure this was the case before my wire blew)
    There is a 40 pin? Idk has lotsa pins, round connector, the right side that you can pull out, has continuity, although pretty high ohms. It showed i think 2.52 on the 20k setting as opposed to most connections being 0.00-0.10 on the 200ohm setting. But yeah, this be the blu wire. I already depinned it and snipped it, ready for a new wire but im stumped now lul.

    And what I found out today when testing continuity and more fun stuff.

    Pin 1 goes to the top right pin on the left side of the 10pin connector. Wire is green/red.

    Pin 2 goes to the 8 pin connector. Under the single pin in the corner. The wire is blu/blk. The single pin above it looks to be white.

    Pin 3 goes to the far left pin on the biggest connector, looks like two pins are almost separated from the rest. Wire that goes to it is yellow, the pin next to it is blu/blk.

    Pin 4 goes to the 8 pin, connector. Under the single pin, right next to the pin 2 in the corner. The wire is missing entirely.

    With no.25 fuse in the lower left corner and out of its socket, the right pin has continuity to pin 4, and the left pin has continuity to battery ground.

    I tracked the radiator fan wire from connector to the fuse box. I know its entire path, both it and the blu wire. But theyre very deep in the loom, which is multilayered. Part of my loom near the airbox for the radiator fan wire was easy to access and 1 layer thick, it was already split open, the wire is definitely blu/blk to the fan.

    Is the haynes manual wrong? Or is my understanding of these pins just wayyy off? Im really confused. My car wiring matches up best with the ky/kq model except near the fusebox, and the fuse is 20a not 15a. My fusebox says KA SM4-A1 (off a '90 accord, my original was KA SM4-A6, they both match up perfectly in results.

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      #17
      Run the new wire, but continuity should either show OL (overload) or a value. I'm assuming the blue wire showed OL at some point and it doesn't now, so you are confused? In that case it's the way the wire is being rubbed.
      You could temp run the replacement wire and see if the fan works.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
        Run the new wire, but continuity should either show OL (overload) or a value. I'm assuming the blue wire showed OL at some point and it doesn't now, so you are confused? In that case it's the way the wire is being rubbed.
        You could temp run the replacement wire and see if the fan works.
        Yes, I was partially confused by that, but also that my wiring colors at the fusebox disagree with the haynes service manual. What makes it more confusing to me is that pin 2 is blu/blk but pin 4 isnt, and when i connected pin 1 and 4 a while ago (previously posted) it sparked and didnt turn the fan on. Im gonna check out continuity on a junkyard car to make sure the wires are the right ones. Then ill run replacement wires.

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