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f20b cb7 loss of power / misfire

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    #1

    f20b cb7 loss of power / misfire

    hey guys trying to fix a loss of power/ misfire. no cel




    car is a 90’ accord f20b and odb1 swapped




    recently went out of me had a crank no start . replaced ignition coil , spark plugs , fuel filter / pump and main relay . car cranks, starts, and idles fine now.




    Hondata shows a/f ratio goes down/red on takeoffs, and I can feel it really struggling to pull off . car drives fine after take off but it’s louder than it used to be, and has a loss of power, takes longer than usual to get to speed than before .




    really bummed just trying to get it back on the road as this is my daily .




    what should I check next?




    could the dizzy itself be bad or should i rule it out ? I bought a td-60u dizzy from a 92-96 jdm h22a from ebay to replace but the dizzy on my car only has the 8 pin connector. the new one has a pigtail with the other connector. I followed the wiring on the connection to dizzy and found this extension. could I theoretically remove this and just connect both to the new dizzy? seems like an adapter .




    also wanted to check if maybe my egr is the issue but it seems to be blocked off?




    any advice helps thanks guys.
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    #2
    If it's actually louder than it used to be, are you sure you don't have a gross exhaust manifold leak somewhere? that would screw up the A/F ratio recorded by the O2 sensor by allowing exhaust out and fresh air in, will probably make it run way overly rich and can ruin power output. Could also be the O2 sensor itself.

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      #3
      If the AFR is showing RED, it depends if it is 12+ or 12- (12+ is running rich so if it goes RED, it goes anywhere from 12-1. 12- is leaning out so it can read anywhere from 12- 22. RED is typically 14-22)
      Do you have an actual AFR gauge to read the readings correctly?

      What basemap is loaded into the ECU?

      I know with my basemap, the aggressive tune, when it is cold out (anything below 40 degrees Fahrenheit), it tends to get into the RED and run rich (12-8)

      When cold out, i switch out to the Prelude tune (although It cannot run the car correctly) the AFR is more stable staying in the 13-8 through 14.7 zone for cruising and normal driving.

      MRT

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