Cam Seal replacement the easiest way

[Krusty]

Hi All
Newby here. 1993 Accord SE coupe 2.2 litre engine. This has collector car status, so only leaves the garage about 2 or 3 times a week, so very little mileage adding up. I have to change the cam seal but don't want to disturb the timing belt and all that entails as it was replaced about 1.5 years ago. I watched a video replacing the seal by zip-tying the timing belt to the cam sprocket, removing the cam bolt and slipping the sprocket off the cam, removing the old seal and replacing with a new seal without having to access the rest of the timing belt setup. So my question: is there some "give" on the belt when lifting the cam sprocket back onto the cam (timing marks aligned properly of course) where the tensioner is concerned. It appeared in the video that removal was easy, but the video did not show putting it back together thus, my concerns with having some movement up of the timing belt. Thanks in advance.

[Raf99]

Ya, it's all under tension. Hence the tensioner. I'm not sure how you would stop the belt from coming loose down below. Vice grips maybe.
i would simply set TDC, and remove the timing belt. I suppose you could just remove the top if you had the bottom secured well. Either way tension will be lost and you'll have to put ut back together and check timing (do the timing procedure).

[Krusty]

Hey Thanks for that. I'm thinking by zip-tying the timing belt to the cam sprocket that would keep the tension on the belt so it would not loose timing below. Just need someone to reply that may have done it this way to confirm it does or does not work at all. After all is said and done I probably will have to do it the long way.

[Corrosion]

As long as you don't move it independently from everything else and it stays timed and the belt stays on, I think it should work. I replaced mine recently (not that method, but timing belt job, it's not too hard to take out. You just need a cheap bottle opener.

Is this the video? watch?v=i6PPcSQk6aQ
Accord Cam Shaft Seal

[SaddleMtnMan]

I've done something similar on a different engine, once. requires taking timing cover completely off. If you use a paint marker to mark the exact same tooth on both belt and cam sprocket, then use a pair of vice grips or a ziptie to pinch the belt together immediately above the crank pulley (clamping it on the crank pulley) as you undo the tensioner, you can maintain timing position relative to the crank AS LONG AS THE CRANK DOES NOT MOVE. then when you reinstall line up the paint marker, run the tensioner, cut zip tie. I don't see why something similar would not work on an F22.

edit: and I don't like the idea of only zip-tying the belt to the cam pulley. you cannot guarantee you will keep tension on the crank pulley during the entire job and it may slip a tooth. additionally it will be very difficult to get the cam pulley back on when you are fighting the tensioner the entire way, you really should back the tensioner off before you do anything to the belt.

[Raf99]

Looking at the video i call BS. Once you take the cam gear off the belt will loosen around all the gears down below. You will never know if the belt moved a tooth or the crank moved. This would work if you secured the belt below too.

[UnicornHondaSE]

I would not take the chance to do the zip tie method. What should have been done is the cam seal should have been replaced at the time the timing belt and tensioner and water pump were replaced, but I understand that is all coulda woulda shoulda and doesn't help you now.

I personally would just suck it up and do it the long way. Get everything lined up to TDC and then start the job of replacing the cam seals and whatever else while you are in there.

And to answer your question, does the belt have any give? No. The belt does not flex like a rubber band.

[Corrosion]

If it can be done assuming nothing goes wrong, then this is how you can do it.

1. Remove the valve cover gasket. You can probably reuse it, no need to replace it if it's not old.
2. Remove the upper timing belt cover (two bolts, one on the left and one on the right)
3. You probably should use an impact to remove the camshaft nut. It might move to the left, but it's still in time.
4. You don't have to use zip ties necessarily. If you use a clamp, but put a rubber piece in between the clamps on both sides.
5. There is no key, if I remember correctly (or it's built in). Have another person slowly pull the sprocket straight out and (do not turn it) still on the shaft. Have him or her just hold it upwards, too, so nothing gets loose. You can also see the belt on the water pump to the right. The belt might slightly move off of the water pump, but you can reposition it later. When you reconnect the sprocket, just make sure it's fully seated.

5. You put the new gasket on. Just push it in. I'm unsure of how much room you are going to have here.

6. Put the sprocket back on. Now use a flashlight, and just check to see if the belt is fully seated on the crankshaft, water pump, two balance shafts, etc.

7. Retighten the nut, many different methods here. But just use an impact to retighten it. It should be mid-impact low setting. Three to four seconds is all that is needed. It might move to the right slightly, but it's still in time.

If this doesn't work then I guess you will be doing the job, the long way.

[Krusty]

OK thanks all who answered. I'm going to do it the long way after all -- better safe than sorry. That way I'll be able to check the condition of everything else at that time. Cheers