just a sugestion but when my guy did it he took the intake manifold off and it took like 6 hours off and on a lot of things went wrong, the dealer charges 2 hours and after doing it from the top its waaay easier to do it from the bottom if you have the tools
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Where did you take it?Originally posted by Stealthman80Comment
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go to a junk yard, find yourself the mounts you need. Clean them up, use inserts or fill them with urethane and replace them.
I dont even charge 700 for a damn engine swap.
CrzyTuning now offering port servicesComment
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I live in Tucson and we got a local place here called BrakeMax. I might take it down to somewhere like Midas or something to get a second opinion.Originally posted by mozzandherb
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700 bucks aint bad. We charge that to do a clutch...Comment
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Originally posted by Stealthman80
u sure? when i did the tranny swap, all i did was take the frame cross member off at the bottom, and i can access the mounts easy. 3 bolts on the block and then the mount comes right off, but i had trouble lining it up when i put it on but a floor jack solved it1991 White Accord LX 5-speed aka Lil' RedComment
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7 bills for motor mounts damn!!!!!!!
i aint even gonna charge my friend that much to drop his single cam and put in a b series in his civic and im sellin him the engine too.......
thanx for da sig. DFRHonda
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Originally posted by cannedcb7
u don't mind selling and droppin in a JDM h22 for me?? i will take that offer heck i'd give u an extra 300 bucks just for the heck of it1991 White Accord LX 5-speed aka Lil' RedComment
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yea but the clutch is a total different subject isnt it? Unless youre saying that it's like the same kind of hard labor then idk.Originally posted by civicboisi
But anyway..fock that, dont pay for 700...if you do, you wouldve already gotten a PS3..even though i heard stories about them already tahaha.
*Needs*
-New shocks
-Struts
-Drop
-Cleaning
-New Tires/Wheels
-New Window Tint
-Alot more lovin'
My Panda:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ghlight=DjmouaComment
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Gotta drop the tranny to do the clutch. I helped a friend do it before, only part that took long was bleeding the system.
Of course thats with 2 people, but it seemed more like 2 hours worth of work, 700 seems steep but what do I know.
on the stairs, she grabs my arm, says whats up,
where you been, is something wrong?
i try to just smile, and say everything’s fine.Comment
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I brought it to Eric, I looked and the dealer charges 2.3 hours and they do it from the bottom, I told eric to do it from the top cause thats what everyone said, so after 2 fuckin days and 6 hours a later it was all back together I do not recommend doing it from the top, after looking at the steps to do it fromn the bottom he said it woulda been like 2-3 hours. anyways now my vibration is way fuckin worse after changing the mount and im PISSEDOriginally posted by mozzandherb
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Having done the swaps (engine and tranny) clutches, mounts etc, $700 wouldn't be bad including parts.
There is a lot of labor in it.
Plus the mounts alone would account for around 400-450 all by themselves.
Of course, everyone in this thread is neglecting that aren't they?
They keep mentioning "damn I'm not even charging my friend that much to swap his motor."
You aren't paying for any extra new parts like T-Belt, waterpump, tensioner either, are you?
So what essentially is really a $250 labor job, you are accusing him of being overcharged.
I have changed them all, at 50.00 an hour (cheap these days) that gives you 5 hours worth of labor or so. By the time they do everything the right way, (no monkeying or rigging like I have seen 99% of all people who work on Hondas do), that is about right.
If you want to do it yourself, buy a book and go for it, but unless you have the proper equipment to do it, it is going to take you far longer and cost you far more.
That I can guarantee. Just the tools alone will cost you well over $250 if you don't already have them.
That doesn't count any other parts or things you may break, lose or otherwise need to replace.
No, the shop doesn't do it for free, nor should they.
If you decide to tackle it yourself, or pay someone who will do it "cheap", be prepared to understand why it wasn't cheap.
Just my .02Last edited by owequitit; 03-06-2007, 03:22 PM.Comment
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fill your factory mounts with urethane once the shop takes em out, and put them back in. if you have a auto, I have the rear auto monut from when my car was a auto, as far as I can tell, it is in good condition. you can have it for 20$ if you need one.
for a manual lx or dx, you can change the rear mount from the top without taking off the IM, and it dosent take all that long. Ill make video clips of it next time I need to take it off, or mess with it. basicaly I used a short extension on a 14mm socket and felt for the bolt (a little tricky). It didnt take long. I dont recall if I had the shifter cables dissconeccted or not, but you could move thoes out of the way fairly quickly. I could change out the other mounts in 45 min no problem on my 94 lx. the cb7 is a little different though.Last edited by dbsharp; 03-06-2007, 03:49 PM.spin cityComment
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If anything, get them to do the rear mount ONLY. That is the difficult one. It's not that bad, but if you aren't very mechanically inclined, it may be a little intimidating. As someone said, removing the crossmember will provide undercar access, and removing the intake manifold (a project in itself) will provide top access. You could probably do it either way.
The driver's side and transmission mounts are cake to get to. You can see them clearly, and get to them quite easily. Just make sure you have the proper leverage to loosen the bolts (PB Blaster is your friend!) I would buy new mounts yourself, or do what others have advised and fill the old ones with urethane (if you aren't comfortable doing it here, I'm sure there are plenty of members that would do it for a small fee... uslspct has mentioned that idea to me a few times, and he does good work). You need to put a well-padded jack under the oil pan to help support the engine as you remove each side mount (remove and replace one mount at a time). The front mount is just a torque mount, and doesn't hold any weight. It's only there to counteract motor flex. Anyone with a turbo kit on here runs without it.
$700 is a LOT for mounts and labor. Ebay mounts sell for $150. Perhaps they aren't as good as OEM, but they would most likely last for as long as you have the car (unless you're like me, an NEVER plan on selling it!)
I would pay $120 max for the rear mount only. 2 hours labor should be all a shop would need, and that's even stretching it. On a lift, it wouldn't be a very complicated task to do the rear mount.
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You are correct about the rear mount being the hardest.Originally posted by deevergote
Also, having friends that have used these cheap EBAY mounts, he will be lucky to get 1 year or 15K out of them. They aren't well built and after awhile the rubber cracks and breaks again.
Honda doesn't really overcharge for their mounts if you buy them from someplace like Majestic Honda. If you find them for a little cheaper, OK, but when they are 1/3 the price, you have to start to wonder about quality.
IMO, you would be better off filling your OEM mounts with poly, than to buy those.
If you do fill them, be prepared to deal with a little extra vibration.Comment
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