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Replace motor mounts job

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    Replace motor mounts job

    I just have a quick question for motor mounts job.


    Is it necessary for an engine out or just an engine lifted?

    You can raise it and then just discnnnect the mount and replace it right?

    My back one is going bad. My engine shakes like crazy lol.

    BTW, if I were to pay a place, do you know the estimates?

    Cheaper if I were to buy it seperate and rent and engine hoist?
    No longer have a cb7.

    V6 POOOWAAAA

    lol, a buick.

    #2
    cheaper if you do it yourself, and no, the motor doesn't have to come out, just loosen the others, tilt and you'll create enough space, but it will still suck
    ....and on the 7th day, deevergote rested and called his mom.

    Comment


      #3
      Put a well padded jack under the oil pan for increased support. Don't put too much weight on it... but it'll help take some of the strain off the other mounts. You definitely don't need to pay anyone. If you have access to a hoist, you can just attach the engine while it's mounted, make it tight, and then just go from there, one at a time.

      I see you're looking for an A6 cam. Get the A6 intake manifold and you'll probably see even more gains (if you don't have it already.) Do this at the same time, and the rear motor mount will be easier to get to! The intake manifold is what is in the way of the rear mount from the top. It'll still be a pain, but not too hard to get to.






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        #4
        automatic or manual?

        its easier if you disconnect the front motor mount. leave the two side ones in, they will hold the motor up no problem, you dont even need a jack under the motor. with the front & rear loose, you can tip the motor forward or backward to give you room to pull the rear mount out. the three 14mm bolts that hold it down are accessible even with the rear bracket still attached to the motor. its not necessarily hard to replace, its just hard to get to... if you remove the intake pipe usually theres enough room to get in, but of course it would be even easier with the intake manifold removed. but not necessary.


        - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
        - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
        - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
        - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
        - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
        Current cars:
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        Comment


          #5
          Correct me someone if I'm wrong...

          I heard that the rear engine mount on an automatic and manual CB7 are interchangeable. Is that correct?

          Comment


            #6
            not if you want it to work properly


            My Members Ride Page

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              #7
              Originally posted by Accordolictx
              I heard that the rear engine mount on an automatic and manual CB7 are interchangeable. Is that correct?
              Actually, our cars came w/ 3 different rear mounts:Auto, EX manual, and DX/LX manual. The EX manual and Auto rear mounts are fluid filled, the DX/LX manual is rubber, but the best design for polyurethane filling. And also the EX manual and Auto uses the tall bracket arm and the DX/LX manual uses the short bracket arm b/c the mount itself is shorter in height.

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                #8
                I'm changing my EX manual rear mount now and its all rubber...

                I'm a bit of a noob mechanic wise, but I'd say that rear mount is not easy to replace. I did the others in about 30 min to an hour a piece and have spent days trying to pry this last mount out, lol.
                PM me for the following...
                -Driver's side 2-door armrest in tan for sale - $5 + shipping


                I'm currently looking to buy an N/A mkIII (86.5-92) supra. PM if you or anyone you know is selling anywhere near CO.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Do the engine tip as cp[mike] suggested. If you've got it unbolted, that's all you'd need to pry it out. Unbolting is the part that always gets me!

                  Were all EX mounts fluid filled? Or just the 92-93, F22A6 equipped ones?






                  Comment


                    #10
                    Mine's automatic.

                    So should I really buy the polyurethane, is it worth it?

                    I think right now I should just go for a replacement to save some money.
                    No longer have a cb7.

                    V6 POOOWAAAA

                    lol, a buick.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      btw wait how do you know if it's going bad? I mean my engine is shaking like a bitch but maybe that's because a bolt's loose? like how would a engine mount go bad? the filling is gone?.... u know what i mean
                      No longer have a cb7.

                      V6 POOOWAAAA

                      lol, a buick.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        That would be your motor mount...You basically have 4 rubber mounts holding up your motor...They go bad your motor will vibrate. Load testing will reveal it more.

                        The New-ish Ride
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                          #13
                          I know but how does a motor mount go bad? I can see it shaking on the bolt, like does it just need to be tightened down or the filling has gone bad or what like i dont get it how it can go bad.
                          No longer have a cb7.

                          V6 POOOWAAAA

                          lol, a buick.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            If the bolts holding the mounts to the frame are loose, then tighten them before the engine falls out! If the bolts holding the motor to the mounts are loose, then tighten them before the engine falls out!

                            As it has been said before, when the mount goes bad, the rubber tears. Essentially, you have the center metal part that the engine is bolted to bouncing around the broken rubber, not really held by anything. If the rubber is bad, replace your mounts, or fill the old ones with polyurethane (which is actually the cheaper alternative... though filling a good mount is probably a better idea).






                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by NAiL05
                              That would be your motor mount...You basically have 4 rubber mounts holding up your motor...They go bad your motor will vibrate. Load testing will reveal it more.
                              i have a freind w/ a 92 ex coupe auto and he told me that his car didnt have the drivers side engine mount. i figured mine did b/c its stick, but now i dont think so. did it come from the factory without one? i dont know why they would put just three...
                              Last edited by bmxboi23; 06-25-2007, 09:54 AM.

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