How to make 30+hp for $500 or less... (DX/LX F22A1 only)

[Shadow1]

i have a f22a4 in my 1993 se
would all of this ...

"F22A6 camshaft - $25 (92-93 Accord EX)
F22A6 ECU - $25
H23A1 intake manifold and throttle body (from a Prelude SI, 92-96 I believe) - $45
F22A6 IAB "black box" (to be able to activate the secondary runners, the intake air bypass, in the H23 manifold) - no price listed... probably $10 or so...."

work with my car
cuz that would be sweet

yes. all of those will work with your car. all thats missing is the a4 headers. but you have the a4 so you dont need to worry about those. also you can always buy some aftermarket headers too.

if you tack on an extra $100 send your throttle body to maxbore.com and get it bored out. that'll give you an added 5-8hp.

[esskater892]

i have a f22a4 in my 1993 se
would all of this ...

"F22A6 camshaft - $25 (92-93 Accord EX)
F22A6 ECU - $25
H23A1 intake manifold and throttle body (from a Prelude SI, 92-96 I believe) - $45
F22A6 IAB "black box" (to be able to activate the secondary runners, the intake air bypass, in the H23 manifold) - no price listed... probably $10 or so...."

work with my car
cuz that would be sweet

[Shadow1]

im looking at the others comment on on 30+Hp with 500 dollars. I hate to say this but its not going to happen. Theres no way u can get 30+hp with just 500 dollars.U have to spend a lot more then 500 dollars. Trust me. I done the research, bought the books, talked to expert, is just not happing. Im not saying u cant get 30+Hp, u can, but it takes more then $500. Unless its stolen

the h23 intake manifold, the a4 headers, the a6 cam, all of those i can go to one junk yard in MD and get it all for no more than $150 for all of that stuff. so i still got $350 left over to go online, get some ebay headers, get a shop in PA to do a cat-back exhaust and get my throttle body bored out by maxbore.com.

so yes you can get 30-50hp increase with OEM parts for $500. just boring out the TB on the h23 IM bored out. its still OEM. so who ever you talked to, sorry buckko.

[deevergote]

F22A1 = 125hp.
F22A4 = 130hp. The only difference from the A1 is the header.
F22A6 = 140hp. Camshaft, intake manifold, ECU

F22A6 with the F22A4 exhaust manifold = 145hp est. The A6 and A1 manifolds are both rough cast manifolds, fairly similar. That's 20hp with CB7 parts alone. Add the H23 intake manifold and throttle body in place of the F22A6 parts, and you're looking at another 5hp at least.

Tell me an intake and and exhaust, even cheap crap, won't give you 5hp.

I've read the books as well. I also know these cars quite well.


$500 is actually a pretty high estimate. With used parts, this could be done for under $200. Having the exhaust welded on would be the most expensive part.

[jm991700]

im looking at the others comment on on 30+Hp with 500 dollars. I hate to say this but its not going to happen. Theres no way u can get 30+hp with just 500 dollars.U have to spend a lot more then 500 dollars. Trust me. I done the research, bought the books, talked to expert, is just not happing. Im not saying u cant get 30+Hp, u can, but it takes more then $500. Unless its stolen

[owequitit]

2.5" would probably be justified with a larger cam profile and a modified header, paired with the H23 manifold. For the CB7-only parts, a muffler that flows better would probably help a bit on stock piping (I'm sure the dual tips on the EX weren't just for looks)

Yes, the EX system was higher flow, although I believe the piping was larger too.

[deevergote]

2.5" would probably be justified with a larger cam profile and a modified header, paired with the H23 manifold. For the CB7-only parts, a muffler that flows better would probably help a bit on stock piping (I'm sure the dual tips on the EX weren't just for looks)

[owequitit]

I think people underestimate the ability of the F22 to flow. Projects like Hondafan's red project have proven that the F22 flows really well. Yes, his head is not stock, but he is also putting down as much or slightly more than a stock H22 would, so if you removed the headwork from the equation, you would probably still land somewhere well ahead of where you were.

The IM and TB made a HUGE difference. Honda chokes that stuff down to keep it quiet for grandma. Also, it should be noted that the stock F22A4 header would probably benefit from a larger collector. The O.D. is around 2", but since it is double walled, the actual inner diameter is more like 1.5-1.75". That is too small for a 2.2L that is trying to breath, and most likely a 2" - 2.5" collector would be a good mod. That is about the only difference between stock and a DC header. I would probably go with a 2.25" on a mostly stock F22, although I don't know for sure that a 2.5" would really hurt any.

Then with the high flow exhaust and a good high flow cat, as well as the other stuff, you can have a car that would surprise you, and others. I know it did me.

[HondaFan81]

if i could add to your list, one thing that is sometimes over looked on an f22 build is the transmission. in my opinion the car is more fun with the h23/h22 trans. it's somewhat of a night and day difference.

i have the h23 trans with the f22. i picked it up for $500 (i'm sure if you looked around, you could find it cheaper).

i'm pretty sure i could pull away from any regular accord with bolt-ons. the shorter gearing multiplies the engines torque. for the added acceleration, you loose top end.

the only thing i don't like about it is driving on the highway. 4000rpm's @ 80mph in 5th. later.

I've said this before, even for not having the H23 5spd on my red Accord yet, I had all this info down pat. The things most people overlook.

Man, you just reaffirmed my research TypeG, makes me itch for this tranny so bad for my red setup, however, they are hard to find in my area. My red Accord clutch is slipping, perhaps then I'll do it.

[deevergote]

IMO, a street car that gets decent gas mileage that can run 13.5 at the track would be ideal. That would put it in the same class as most of the better sporty sedans on the road today. Of course, my $500 mods aren't going to do that!

But yeah, 140-150 at the crank for the mods I listed is likely. Some porting of the IM and TB might bring that up by another 5, maybe more, I dunno. That would be for a very healthy engine. Do it to a tired motor with poor compression... and you might experience what it felt like when it was new

[Shadow1]

(of course, the H22 is a Honda part as well...)

lmao. true. but not OEM in a cb7. lol. i wouldnt expect to get no more than like at LEAST 140hp out of the stock motor. 145 would be from a motor thats been well taken care of.

aftermarket wise id be happy with the I/H/E, the h23 IM, and shot of nitrous. thatll get me to be able to stick with the civics and tegs to get down the track.

[d112crzy]

I don't think the power difference would be that noticeable.

The most noticeable part would be the IM/TB. After that, it would probably be as noticeable as adding a short ram.

More gains could probably be had if you tuned it, rather than using the pt6.

Of course, the cost will go up.

[deevergote]

You MIGHT be able to pull some power from a chipped ECU, as the stock programs are usually safely on the rich side. Tune with 93 octane and lean it out a bit...

However, the gains would be minimal, and the only way to get anything that could be considered significant would have to be on a dyno. Unless you have free access to a dyno, the few horsepower you'll get from tuning a stock-ish engine would probably be a waste of money.

MRX refuses to make an I/H/E basemap for the F22, as it's not really worth his time for the potential gains. I may give it a shot one day just for the sake of fuel economy.

If you were going to tune all OEM, I'd say a chipped ECU and perhaps a freer-flowing muffler (like an RSX-S muffler) would be useful. Still OEM, just not OEM CB7!


It would be pretty cool to see a car pushed to the absolute limit of OEM offerings using all Honda parts (of course, the H22 is a Honda part as well...)

[Shadow1]

^
^
very true about the intake and exhaust not giving a 10-15hp gain. is there any way that you can achieve about 150hp(crank) without going aftermarket tho? would a chipped ECU be concidered aftermaket? would that net any gains or would that just give my ECU the ability to be tuned?

[deevergote]

Very true, the transmission helps a good deal. That would kill my $500 claim though!


And yes, I'm talking crank horsepower only. Drop about 15%-20% (shouldn't be as high as 20%) for drivetrain losses off the total horsepower amount.

The Accord bits I KNOW will give those gains... because the motors are rated at 125-130-140 each. The A4 header might not add a full 5hp to the A6, but it'll be damn close. The A6 has a cast manifold similar to the A1. The A4 and the A1 are IDENTICAL, other than the exhaust manifold... and 5hp. So, with the A4/A6 bits, a 125hp A1 should then make roughly 145hp (120-125 to the wheels if the engine was healthy, roughly). An intake and exhaust will move the powerband up in the RPM range a bit, but could potentially add another 10-15hp. There's no way to say exactly what gains those mods will bring, as there are endless brands out there. Still, 10hp from an intake and exhaust combo isn't unreasonable.