92 Honda accord lx f22a1 auto. I'm kinda of a noob to car audio. My current sub box started cracking so I got a new one from my local car audio shop. Do I have too disconnect every single wire? Including my capacitor and discharging it? Is there an easier way? I was thinking just simply disconnecting the 2 sub speaker wires that go from the box terminals to the amp on both sides of the box (disconnecting 4 wires in total) and disconnecting the main in line fuse wire that connects to the batt positive to my cap positive ( if this is even necesarry) Then I can pull out the cracked box with the subs out. Is this a good idea? I want to avoid disconnecting my entire system and discharging the capp( which I don't know how to do) all I want to accomplish is a box replacement. Unplug the batt ground of course when connecting it back. Thank you
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Changing my sub box? Do I really need to unplug everything?
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Just keep the car off and swap your enclosures, if its a rats nest of wires just dont short any 12v leads. Discharging the cap..well you could use a brake bulb or if you DGAF short it out with a wire or something itll snap, some say it messes up the cap, Ive done it a dozen times and it still works. or just unhook it and itll discharge over nite. But yeah just unhook the box and hook up the new one. good luckOriginally posted by pike0825 View Post92 Honda accord lx f22a1 auto. I'm kinda of a noob to car audio. My current sub box started cracking so I got a new one from my local car audio shop. Do I have too disconnect every single wire? Including my capacitor and discharging it? Is there an easier way? I was thinking just simply disconnecting the 2 sub speaker wires that go from the box terminals to the amp on both sides of the box (disconnecting 4 wires in total) and disconnecting the main in line fuse wire that connects to the batt positive to my cap positive ( if this is even necesarry) Then I can pull out the cracked box with the subs out. Is this a good idea? I want to avoid disconnecting my entire system and discharging the capp( which I don't know how to do) all I want to accomplish is a box replacement. Unplug the batt ground of course when connecting it back. Thank you
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Thanks for the input guys but now I have a bigger problem. While I was connecting the speaker wires to the box terminals with the car on I think I shorted something Cus my amp red protect ligth came on solid and my power blue led ligth started blinking rapidly. Any thoughts? Is my amp toasted? I have an Audiopipe 15001d.
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The amp doesn't have any fuses on the outside unless u mean fuses on the car or the main in line fuse. Yeah I tried letting it sit for a bit but no longer than 30 min Cus I really couldn't believe the amp would fail by such a small mistake. I disconnected the RCA and inputs so it won't turn on wen I turn my car on.
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Try shutting off the amp by removing or shutting off your remote wire or switch. Sounds like you have positive and negative wires crossed at the speaker wires. That would make it go into protection check your other wires two just to be shure. A small piece of copper between channels can make it go into protection two . I'm kinda just guessing right now because its hard to say without it infront of me....
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......wait if I just read this right plug in your rca's you'll have sound....Originally posted by pike0825 View PostThe amp doesn't have any fuses on the outside unless u mean fuses on the car or the main in line fuse. Yeah I tried letting it sit for a bit but no longer than 30 min Cus I really couldn't believe the amp would fail by such a small mistake. I disconnected the RCA and inputs so it won't turn on wen I turn my car on.
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RIGTH now when I turn my car on and my stereo turns on my capacitor turns on like normal and reads 14 volts like normal ( Cus I didn't mess with it ) my amp doesn't turn on due to the simple fact that I disconnected the RCA and red/ white inputs ( that connect to my stereo ) the reason why I disconnected RCA and inputs is because when I connect them to the amp the amp turns on but the red protector ligth comes on solid and the power led ligth blinks rapidly. This has never happend and while this is happening I notice that all my interior curtesy ligths and dash ligths blink too( I can see the ligths dimmingly blink while the amp is acting up) and I don't wanna drive like that so I disconnected the RCA to shut the amp off. If it helps this only started happenning when and while I was hooking up the speaker wires ( that go from amp to the side of the box terminals) and I may have been moving them around enough to let the positive wire touch the negative wire Cus the terminals are so close)Last edited by pike0825; 03-06-2012, 02:50 AM.
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Yah it sounds like you need to go through and fix your wireing. Check it twice!Originally posted by pike0825 View PostRIGTH now when I turn my car on and my stereo turns on my capacitor turns on like normal and reads 14 volts like normal ( Cus I didn't mess with it ) my amp doesn't turn on due to the simple fact that I disconnected the RCA and red/ white inputs ( that connect to my stereo ) the reason why I disconnected RCA and inputs is because when I connect them to the amp the amp turns on but the red protector ligth comes on solid and the power led ligth blinks rapidly. This has never happend and while this is happening I notice that all my interior curtesy ligths and dash ligths blink too( I can see the ligths dimmingly blink while the amp is acting up) and I don't wanna drive like that so I disconnected the RCA to shut the amp off. If it helps this only started happenning when and while I was hooking up the speaker wires ( that go from amp to the side of the box terminals) and I may have been moving them around enough to let the positive wire touch the negative wire Cus the terminals are so close)
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what amp are you running? The only amps I know to my knowledge that allow the rca's to turn them on and off are jl slash series amps which have a feature called "signal sensing".... when the rca's have a signal going through them, the amp senses it and turns on. when signal dies, amp turns off shortly after.
if your amp is just like most amps, it will have a remote wire, usually a 5v lead going to it. When your deck turns on, it sends the 5v which the amp senses and it turns on. That is what usually tells your amp to turn on and off.
When swapping out your enclosure, make sure you do not get the positive and negative cables mixed up. if you by mistake swapped them when re inserting them into your new enclosure, chances are that is why your amp is protecting itself.
other things to check for..
inline fuse, make sure its good.
grounds... did any cables come loose?
make sure no cables are crossed or touching each other. the slightest hair of onc cable can touch another and cause everything to fail.
make sure your positive and negative speaker wires are going to the correct location and not crossed.Last edited by trinistylez; 03-07-2012, 09:48 PM.Everyday is one day closer to completing my cb7 <3
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. It's an Audiopipe 15001d and I ended up returning it Cus it had a one year warranty. I never knew how it got messed up but I'm getting another one so I'll be fine if I don't mess this other one up. Thanks for the input guys.Originally posted by trinistylez View Postwhat amp are you running? The only amps I know to my knowledge that allow the rca's to turn them on and off are jl slash series amps which have a feature called "signal sensing".... when the rca's have a signal going through them, the amp senses it and turns on. when signal dies, amp turns off shortly after.
if your amp is just like most amps, it will have a remote wire, usually a 5v lead going to it. When your deck turns on, it sends the 5v which the amp senses and it turns on. That is what usually tells your amp to turn on and off.
When swapping out your enclosure, make sure you do not get the positive and negative cables mixed up. if you by mistake swapped them when re inserting them into your new enclosure, chances are that is why your amp is protecting itself.
other things to check for..
inline fuse, make sure its good.
grounds... did any cables come loose?
make sure no cables are crossed or touching each other. the slightest hair of onc cable can touch another and cause everything to fail.
make sure your positive and negative speaker wires are going to the correct location and not crossed.
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