My Friend installed these white face gauges in my car and then after that nothing was working. So I went to the junkyard and bought another cluster and took it to a shop. They hooked it up and now only the temperature section only works.Anybody Knows whats going on?
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I just changed out my gauge cluster so I may be able to help. But first, what aftermarket brand/type gauge face did you install? Is it specific for cb7's or are you just swapping it from some other cluster/car?
Note: Keep in mind when you remove all the pieces, the tach/speedo/fuel&temp meters have 3x screws on the rear circuit board that should NOT be over-torqued. It's real sensitive about that. Just tighten it to where it is snug-no more, no less.
Note: 90-91 Clusters have slight differences between 92-93 Clusters. Trust me. The Fuel&Temp Meters from a 90-91 Cluster will NOT work on a 92-93 Cluster BUT the Tach/Speedo WILL work.
Hope that helps. Let me know if your still having problems.
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[QUOTE=cyclonus_cb7]
Note: Keep in mind when you remove all the pieces, the tach/speedo/fuel&temp meters have 3x screws on the rear circuit board that should NOT be over-torqued. It's real sensitive about that. Just tighten it to where it is snug-no more, no less.
QUOTE]
^^^ thats why my fuel guage always reads full.
are the needles hitting the guage face. cant have any resistence in movement. common prob. w/ faces. sometimes they need a little glue to hold it down around the needlebase.
everything pluged in good- 3 plugs
91 ex 1badwag
91 lx wag (aka the beater)
92 ex 4-door
HONDA...its not just a way of life...its an ADDICTION!!!!!!!!!!!!
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*92HondaEX: Face ... Can you be more specific? If your referring to ONLY the actual meters (tach/speedo/fuel&temp) that have the numbers/readings on them all that you need to do is unscrew the 3x screws per meter on rear circuit board & transplant. Rear white plastic panel does NOT need to be removed (there are 4-5x screws). Make note of what I mentioned earlier that 90-91 fuel&temp meters will NOT work on a 92-93 cluster (personal experience/research).
It's best to stay within the same year or two. 92-93s have SRS, ABS & a blank spot on the very left upper display. I haven't compared wagons but I HEAR their speedo goes up to 140mph or something. If your looking to swap this out for that then remove the entire meter (w/ needle & rear assembly). It's easier & you don't have to worry about mis-aligning or recalibrating the needle later if something goes wrong.
You should also be able to swap out the entire cluster if your within the same 1-2 years w/out a prob. Test it out but I don't know what years, 5sp v. auto, or what "face" your referring to (if you mean the black bezel itself too?!?!).
*kelveSM4: "cf4 tiptronic meter cluster?" Anymore details? The meter itself or the entire gauge cluster? Let me know exactly what year/meter/post any pics. BTW, your existing gauge cluster should work with your motor swap w/out a hitch (mine did for my h22)
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Originally posted by cyclonus_cb7*92HondaEX: Face ... Can you be more specific? If your referring to ONLY the actual meters (tach/speedo/fuel&temp) that have the numbers/readings on them all that you need to do is unscrew the 3x screws per meter on rear circuit board & transplant. Rear white plastic panel does NOT need to be removed (there are 4-5x screws). Make note of what I mentioned earlier that 90-91 fuel&temp meters will NOT work on a 92-93 cluster (personal experience/research).
It's best to stay within the same year or two. 92-93s have SRS, ABS & a blank spot on the very left upper display. I haven't compared wagons but I HEAR their speedo goes up to 140mph or something. If your looking to swap this out for that then remove the entire meter (w/ needle & rear assembly). It's easier & you don't have to worry about mis-aligning or recalibrating the needle later if something goes wrong.
You should also be able to swap out the entire cluster if your within the same 1-2 years w/out a prob. Test it out but I don't know what years, 5sp v. auto, or what "face" your referring to (if you mean the black bezel itself too?!?!).
*kelveSM4: "cf4 tiptronic meter cluster?" Anymore details? The meter itself or the entire gauge cluster? Let me know exactly what year/meter/post any pics. BTW, your existing gauge cluster should work with your motor swap w/out a hitch (mine did for my h22)
This is the one I bought:
See? I'm kinda lost....
Caleb
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Originally posted by yeamans1792, i believe there is a write up in the diy on how to do this, you have to remove the big bezzle that wraps around the stereo up around the gauges, if not removed it cant be done, but to answer the original question, if the needles were removed from the guages to put the new gauges on, they will not work, they will get f-ed up realy bad, so that may be your problem
Caleb
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cyclonus, thanx for the reply. ok, the meter cluster of the f20b dohc vtec is from the 1999 cf4 accord SiR. actually, i dun mind keeping my current meters, however, the mileage is stated 250k kms...kinda depressing looking at it.. . besides, the odometer on the new cluster is digital...looks cool. here's a far pic of it. try to zoom in on the pic, i din really get a close pic of it.
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Originally posted by yeamans17they have guages that go up to 140, i had indiglo guages for a while that read 140 on my 130 speed, i have since switched to reverse indiglo that read correctly. but i basically just kinda kept up with traffic, because, without buying new gauges there to my knowledge is nothing else you can do, unless a guage that reads 130 will swap into it
Caleb
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*92HondaEX: OK, now that's a lil' clearer. UM, as I said and yeamans17 mentioned, removing the needles would definitely mis-align everything IMO. I was going to do this initially w/ my fuel&temp meter since I did a 5sp. conversion & hated looking at the stupid red light in "PARK." When I tried it, it skewed the needle & I didn't wanna continue using it so I got another 5sp. cluster (junk yards are truly my best/friend!).
So getting back to your issue, I'm pretty sure your speedo WILL be off. If you really wanted to "fix" this prob. it would definitely require some rewiring or reprogramming so that the ecu or something is set to a max. base speed of 140 instead of 130 (don't hold me to that just thinking out loud). I too, also saw a DIY thread on this so you may want to try a search if you haven't already.
*kelveSM4: NICE! I'd definitely give that a try/go! But to answer your orig. question, I don't know if it'll work. I would think the plugs/pins & circuit board are different. Pull out the transplant gauge cluster & compare it to our's. If our green plugs fit, try & test it. That would be a sweet mod. keep me/everyone up to speed.
Good luck.
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