Air boost valve block-off

[PR CB7]

a blob of silicone i used in my h plenum the only thing i used a plate was for the fast idle one

[ExCoupe92]

ahh yess thank you good sir, my eyes must have passed over that. I think I'm going to do something similar.

[lucid]

Umm...it says he used 3/8" x 24 right?

[ExCoupe92]

Well until I find a block-off plate or make one, this should do! I had an extra boost valve laying around and found some 3/8" x 24 plugs hidden in my tool box and......

Threaded in very snugly with blue RTV on the threads to seal and lock them! It's raining and nasty today but I'll get it installed soon.

thats a great design, what size tap did you use? I need to do this to mine.

[lucid]

exactly what i was thinking.


Lucid. You sir are the man right now. thanks you very much

Glad to help, you can tell I was trying.

Forgot to mention if the FI(T)V will make your idle surge when it goes bad.

I have no FIV, and a P28 mapped for my H22 that does a great job handling my idle. It will get down below freezing around here...it was close last night. My ride still starts and idles up around 1200rpm until it warms or I tap the gas. The valve just lets more air in to idle higher, so in the event of a low rpm idle/starting problem, I would just touch the throttle a bit. In my case, the IACValve does what it needs to to keep the RPM around 800.

[19dabeast85]

so i am basically reading that you don't need and of the extra valves all over the intake manifold. let me know if i am wrong.


The EGR is not necessary, The IACV is meant to up the idle if you do things that put more load on the motor(rolling windows, turning the wheel when stopped, etc.)


the FITV is for??? what would happen if it was removed? sorry if i am repeating a questions already answered.

and all you need to do is buy/make block off plates for all of these and your fine?

Like lucid said, I'd keep the IAC unless you're going full race. The fast idle thermo valve isn't really needed here in the South, but in cold climates I'd say it would be a great addition to warm the car up quicker. You also don't want an engine idling cold at 800 rpms when the oil and coolant is all 32*F or colder. You want it to warm up quicker so the metals expand, fluids reach optimum fluidity quicker, etc. This is what the fast-idle thermo valve does.

[19dabeast85]

Why not scrap the valve and put the plugs in the plenum?

Because I would need a step up in size of plugs and I'm cheap/lazy and don't want to get some. It'd work though, just have to be sure the plug can't get loose and get sucked into the intake.

Next time I remove the plenum though I'll probably carry it to a welder and have the holes welded shut and ground/sanded smooth. The best option IMO.

[Flatline]

/\ good info right there

exactly what i was thinking.


Lucid. You sir are the man right now. thanks you very much

[slick]

/\ good info right there

[lucid]

so i am basically reading that you don't need and of the extra valves all over the intake manifold. let me know if i am wrong.


The EGR is not necessary, The IACV is meant to up the idle if you do things that put more load on the motor(rolling windows, turning the wheel when stopped, etc.)


the FITV is for??? what would happen if it was removed? sorry if i am repeating a questions already answered.

and all you need to do is buy/make block off plates for all of these and your fine?

Some people tune to idle high and not use the IACV...I would leave that one if it works okay, since it's likely to cause driveability issues.

Air Boost and FIV no problem, just remove them and reinstall them with a solid gasket cut from a roll of gasket material. That's the easiest way, but plates are the way to go. After you block the FIV (under the throttle body), pull the coolant lines from it and install 1 line that bypasses the throttle body..keeps heat out of the intake air.

EGR doesn't know when it's blocked as long as you leave vacuum and wiring hooked to the valve. Tuned P28s and P72s make EGR and knock sensor removal easy. The EGR system can throw hot, dirty exhaust into the intake, and even cause a misfire if clogged badly enough. You also don't need the evap system's gas-fume injection into the throttle body. Aftermarket throttle bodies don't usually use them.

You also do not need the box and solenoid that are mounted over the transmission, with the hose running to the intake tube.

[Flatline]

so i am basically reading that you don't need and of the extra valves all over the intake manifold. let me know if i am wrong.


The EGR is not necessary, The IACV is meant to up the idle if you do things that put more load on the motor(rolling windows, turning the wheel when stopped, etc.)


the FITV is for??? what would happen if it was removed? sorry if i am repeating a questions already answered.

and all you need to do is buy/make block off plates for all of these and your fine?

[lucid]

Why not scrap the valve and put the plugs in the plenum?

[19dabeast85]

this is what a oem one looks like that comes on the type s motor.

but you know that, and i am sorry it didn't have any #'s on it for order.

Yeah, I might have a hookup with wed3k to make me one!

[19dabeast85]

Blocking off the air-starting valve will not make a significant difference in start ups, I know first-hand. It is beneficial to block it off somehow, as it will be the cause for a vacuum leak if you get any aggressive enough aftermarket camshaft. This will result in an inconsistent idle/surging. Less headaches in future, when setting idle with an aftermarket camshaft.

The only difference I immediately noticed is that the engine revs slightly quicker and VERY noticeably down-revs quicker when shifting......I.E. this valve in stock form creates a little bit of throttle lag evidently.

[KeeleDesign]

this is what a oem one looks like that comes on the type s motor.

but you know that, and i am sorry it didn't have any #'s on it for order.