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** TIPS ON DYNO TUNING & STREET TUNING **

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    #61
    Originally posted by iamanonymous
    DEAL WITH IT!!!!!!!!!!!!

    IM GONNA TRY WIRES AND IGNITION....oops all caps sorry...
    btw i got r7f plugs...stock gap (.35?)....
    my map is still the old one.....so not properly tuned i get studdering sometimes, and friends......i want to switch to external coil asap....
    i still have a hard start as well.
    check ur pms i got some ?'s not related to here....
    oh btw to all thos ethat re street tuning....watch the damn monitor!
    haha
    btw i made my 2 step colder plugs .28
    I hate thieves!

    Comment


      #62
      Been close to a month since this has been updated...somebody has to have a question. I might even go into preperations for the dyno
      Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

      Comment


        #63
        Damn, yet another good thread from MRX

        Got a question, but it's more like "In your opinion" type question....

        How critical is it to have a load on the engine? For example, you could build a motor and tune it on an engine dyno. That engine should not require further tuning except to adjust the power so that it can be used more effectively in the powerband(s) of choice based on the drivetrain setup and the purposes of the car. The engine doesn't really see heavy load on the engine dyno but would deff. see the load afterwards durring the dynotune/streettune sessions. So I guess in your opinion, how critical is it to have engine load while tuning and what things might be thrown off if no load is present?

        Deff. not the typical kinda tuning questions, but I figured I'd ask one that can't be answered by just looking at some tables in uberdata

        My Accord History:
        91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

        -Patrick

        Comment


          #64
          ah, finally an interesting question. Hopefully i can answer it accurately because this is more of a question we can help each other figure out. If not someone will let me have it.

          Load on the engine is essential, and i do believe (haven't seen any in awhile) that engine dyno's take generally the same amount of time to do a pull as a car would do on a roll on dyno...reason being is that the engine dyno would create its own load against the engine simulating a drivetrain. If the engine is a force then dyno is measuring the amount of force it takes to move a certain load over a distance (i.e. Ft/lbs). Without having load on the engine your also essentially free-revving and there is no way to measure force or distance that way...if i'm completely wrong then adding a 5lb flywheel and seeing that it revs up a whole lot faster means you have alot more horsepower.

          My other arguement is that the a/f ratio changes throughout load (gears). It goes from 1st gear being the highest a/f and 5th being the lowest. This is why its dangerous to run a turbo car on the dyno and tune it to say a perfect 12.0:1 a/f in 4th gear. Because that means in 3rd gear its going to be a bit higher, maybe even as much as .2 a/f, then 2nd gear is higher, and 1st can land you in the high 12's area.

          Load on the engine depends on the gear. Another way to look it is by thinking about the size between the 1st gear and our 5th gear. Obviously the bigger gear will take more "work" to rotate, correct? Well that work over time means the engine accelerating slower to get from one rpm to another. Valves are staying open longer thus allowing more fuel to make its way in over time. I think this is what causes the a/f ratio swing between gears.

          I'm tuning another boosted car this weekend and i'll do some pulls and show you the a/f swing throughout different gears. Hopefully that somewhat answered the question
          Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

          Comment


            #65
            good reply as far as I'm concerned, But to clear it up a little more for some people, how much a/f adjusting would be needed on a stock motor vs. one with all lightened pulleys, gears, flywheel, electric oil/water pumps instead of belt driven ones and so on. How much of a difference is lightening the load or in this case, the rotating mass, gonna have regardless of trans. gearing?

            I like this thread! It reminds me of the ACCORDTECH 101's we used to have on AR


            So, continuing with the school session....got some more ?'s for you

            As for atmospheric conditions....humidity, temperature, and air density (elevation) are probably the three most important factors to take into consideration. What other atmospheric conditions should be taken into consideration when tuning and how do you "adjust appropriately" for any of these additional conditions? Also related.....On average, how accurate are dynos at picking up dips and spikes. I know each dyno is different, but say......I were to fart into an intake after eating lots of Taco Bell releasing lots of flamable methane while doing a dyno pull, would the change in the intake air chemical composition show up on the dyno in any way. Maybe my ass gass isn't the best example, but you get what I mean. How minute of a change in atmosperic conditions is enough to be detected by a dyno?

            Obviously you want to start all values out at a "reserved" or safe setting when starting to tune from scratch....but is it possible to be TOO CONSERVATIVE with your setting? If so, what complications may arise from these overly conservative settings? Usually, factory timing and factory a/f is a good starting point for most people, but when would it be necessary to start a base tune using specs other than the factory ones. For example, with a bored and stroked motor, bigger injectors, new pump and FPR, ported head/manifolds, oversized valves, etc.... is it safe to try to tune this starting off with the factory specs and making necessary adjustments on top of that or is there a better starting point?


            I've got more questions lined up but that should keep you busy for a little while

            My Accord History:
            91 EX 2dr : 91 EX 2dr : 91 LX 4dr : 93 EX 2dr : 86 LXi 2dr : 92 LX 4dr : 92 EX 4dr

            -Patrick

            Comment


              #66
              not a question but here's some insight on my current setup. im shooting for an afr between 12.2 and 12.5. 10 psi. enjoy.
              I hate thieves!

              Comment


                #67
                ttt i guess no one watches this page anymore...btw the reason for my boost creep is the wg actuator...its my old one, and i hammered it and put washers on it....
                I hate thieves!

                Comment


                  #68
                  I have a 91 SE w/ a SRI and cat back. I cant tell much of a difference with the new parts. Does that mean that I picked bad parts that lowered my power at some RPM's?
                  1991 Accord SE

                  Comment


                    #69
                    Looks like your map is doing good. I wouldn't feel too comfortable having it that lean in the high rpm's though. Sometime around December-January I would like to tune my car, but I'm probably going to be too broke to get a chip burner and laptop after getting it painted. I'll give you some cash or parts or whatever if you want to help ... Good job on that Cobra kill too man.

                    Comment


                      #70
                      Originally posted by Fearit22
                      Looks like your map is doing good. I wouldn't feel too comfortable having it that lean in the high rpm's though. Sometime around December-January I would like to tune my car, but I'm probably going to be too broke to get a chip burner and laptop after getting it painted. I'll give you some cash or parts or whatever if you want to help ... Good job on that Cobra kill too man.
                      yeah i fixed the lean-ness up top...im sittin at a 12.2 afr....
                      I hate thieves!

                      Comment


                        #71
                        hey Todd long time no talk!

                        lookin good, tho the 12.5 seems a lil lean for my liking...however i am runnin way rich these days. Imms throw a tune hopefully this week or so, at least to get me an 11.5 then we'll see how the winter weather sets her in. Congrats on the kills BTW.


                        Formerly 91AccordExR33
                        11.68 @ 127mph
                        417whp/375wtq
                        Sold: 8/2016

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Originally posted by 91accordexr33
                          hey Todd long time no talk!

                          lookin good, tho the 12.5 seems a lil lean for my liking...however i am runnin way rich these days. Imms throw a tune hopefully this week or so, at least to get me an 11.5 then we'll see how the winter weather sets her in. Congrats on the kills BTW.
                          U dont talk to ME...anyway...too rich is a bad thing
                          I hate thieves!

                          Comment


                            #73
                            yea...washed rings need a tune!


                            Formerly 91AccordExR33
                            11.68 @ 127mph
                            417whp/375wtq
                            Sold: 8/2016

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Originally posted by 91accordexr33
                              yea...washed rings need a tune!
                              Email me a recent log and i'll e-tune it for you to an 11.5:1 a/f.
                              Bigg_body_benz@yahoo.com

                              I still need to answer Pat's questions...but i feel like crap right now and don't feel like thinking to hard. ...*barf*
                              Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

                              FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

                              Comment


                                #75
                                I don't know if this is posted or not if it has then sry for reposting but just rembering how a fellow members car blew there turbo motor b/c there timing was off.

                                Well any ways, to anyone that doesn't know, when using Uberdata and tunning a map be sure to turn off your antivirus programs, some antivirus programs WILL effect your uberdata files. I have had problems with this in the past and read a post on uberforums that others had this problem as well. So when tunning just to be safe turn off your virus protection.

                                Not all virus programs effect it but i have a older version of nortons virus protection and somtimes would open my maps with the virus protection enabled and it would change parts of my map like timing and fuel just all kinds of crazy stuff would happen. ever since then i have it disabled when using uberdata and have never had a problem since then.

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