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What do you guys think of this set up???

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    What do you guys think of this set up???

    92 accord lx coupe 5 spd

    -rebuilt f22a1 motor STOCK
    -milled cylinder head for higher compression
    -ferra valves, springs and retainers
    -Delta 272 regrind
    -Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
    -redline at least at 7500rpms depending where my power drops off...

    with mods i have now:
    -Ebay short ram intake
    -4-2-1 header
    -no cat
    -2.25" exhaust to magnaflow muffler
    -B&M FPR

    with a happy shot of 100 shot of ZEX dry nitrous!!!!

    what do you think my power will be with this stuff???? any ideas? with or without nitrous
    HAN - ZiviCase10287
    Honda-tech - zivicase
    HMT - draztik
    d-series - draztik
    Team Integra - RacinMasonC


    #2
    wut compression ratio u thinking of? idk, but to me, id swap a h22a

    Comment


      #3
      100 Shot on a dry setup? Can we say...... "engine suicide"?

      Comment


        #4
        i think u should consider building the bottom end up with rods and pistons instead of milling the head. Just because the valvetrain can take the 7500rpms doesn't mean your rods are gonna be happy campers throughout the ordeal. Hi comp pistons and lightweight rods would be my choice.
        Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word

        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12

        Comment


          #5
          hmm.. Dr. Occa was running stock valvetrain, stock bottom end up to 7500... don't know for how long... also i'm rebuilding the f22a1 motor to bone stock in college so i thought i would just use that..

          100 shot will be engine suicide? how do you figure..... i have the B&M FPR for adding enough fuel so i don't run lean...

          and h22? screw a motor swap, i'd rather see the f22a1 run mid 14's N/A rather than swapping a motor just to run 14's... its all about the props for me... sorry... i hate the idea of swapping an engine
          HAN - ZiviCase10287
          Honda-tech - zivicase
          HMT - draztik
          d-series - draztik
          Team Integra - RacinMasonC

          Comment


            #6
            why would you think a 100 shot would blow my engine, dry shot i mean...
            HAN - ZiviCase10287
            Honda-tech - zivicase
            HMT - draztik
            d-series - draztik
            Team Integra - RacinMasonC

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by midnite racer x
              Just because the valvetrain can take the 7500rpms doesn't mean your rods are gonna be happy campers throughout the ordeal.
              Some beefier rod bolts should take care of any issues...





              Milling is a good cheap way to increase compression... you can hit high 10' to even 11:1 depending on how much you take off...


              Sounds like a good economical plan...

              I'd also suggest rebuilding the bottom end at least though... new rings and all new bearings at a minimum... and keep the redline to 7k unless you replace with brand new OE springs or upgrade them to stiffer aftermarket springs...


              and be careful on some of the advice you get in this arena... I'm not pointing fingers at anyone in particular or anyone in this thread... but not very many people have this kind of hands on experience with F motors...


              and if you're gonna go up to a 100 dry shot why not just upgrade and do a 100-125 wet shot which is safer... the 100 dry shot is doable but you have to be on top of everything, constantly...
              RIP Lifsatrip7

              ...

              Comment


                #8
                Just becasue you have a FPR doesn't mean you will be getting adequate fuel proportions when you spray 100 shot. You are still relying on the ecu to pick up on the "lean condition" caused by the nitrous and have it introduce more fuel. You are also being limited by your stock fuel injectors which can only take about 10% to 15% increase in fuel pressure. When we put together race engines we NEVER use a dry system...it isn't safe enough, and you can't tune it as much as you can a wet system....
                Last edited by NoSloCB7; 12-24-2004, 05:32 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  zigen... i'm totally rebuilding the stock f22a1 motor in college for automechanics... new everything... and the spare head i'm going to have ferra valves, springs, and retainers... so i should be good there.. and now that you say it i'll get ARP rod bolts.

                  so with a 55 dry shot on a stock accord beating the piss outta it, i shouldda blown my engine cuz its engine suicide??????? right... same compression i had stock after 2 bottles just running it whenever i wanted... upped the fuel pressure so i'd run pretty rich but kill gas milage without nitrous. i dunno maybe you had other experiences.
                  HAN - ZiviCase10287
                  Honda-tech - zivicase
                  HMT - draztik
                  d-series - draztik
                  Team Integra - RacinMasonC

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I don't belive I said anything about a 55 shot...You said you where going to run a 100 dry shot, which I then explained was not a good idea...But you go ahead and run a 100 dry shot...I could care less, I was only trying to help you out....

                    Comment


                      #11
                      i'd just like to take this moment to point out that Fushigi res rules.
                      ~~~~~~~~~~1991 ExR alb F22a6~~~~~~~~~~

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Final 204
                        i'd just like to take this moment to point out that Fushigi res rules.

                        LOL..Thanks man..you're the best!!!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          ya fushires, u do rule..... anyway, i ran NOS on my older accord, and i learned something, no dry shots above 75sht.!!!!!!! r u crazy, a FPR only adds fuel to a certain extent..... i would say u`de be safer with doing a non BUILT engine and a dry 75 vs. a built engine and a 100 dry sht. dry shots add nitrous and if u read how nitrous works really!! (not the u hit the switch and go part, DiR!) but6 the part where, it leans the engine, then adds fuel to compensate therefore making more power......... so WET>DRY.... also, ZEX has a line that runs to ur FPR to add fuel when the nitrous is fired... (u wanna zip tie or hose clamp it down cause if it pops off ur commiting..... engine suicide).......... also 2, on the ZEX kit it is rated @ crank H.P. not wheel H.P.... im serious, i have dyno tested both.... ZEX is safe, but u gotta use their 75sht. just to get about 45-55h.p. to the ground..... go NX, or VENOM, or NOS brand, laters, thats just my 2cents

                          !!Fushires rules!!

                          GET A TUNING QUOTE FROM ME AZ PEOPLE

                          "TÜNE.FREE Engine Management!"

                          ...::SHAWNEE::...

                          Comment


                            #14
                            LOL.......I love you guys (not ***)

                            Comment


                              #15
                              me 2, (not *** either, seriously) merry christmas....

                              GET A TUNING QUOTE FROM ME AZ PEOPLE

                              "TÜNE.FREE Engine Management!"

                              ...::SHAWNEE::...

                              Comment

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