F22A Performance Bolt Ons

[deevergote]

To the op. There is already like 4 threads that contain this info. Try searching next time instead of trying to be deev. Good day.

Actually, you are the one that's trying to do my job. He is attempting to compile a helpful list of the best F22A modifications, which is a GREAT help to this community. You, on the other hand, have contributed absolutely nothing to this thread.

And no, there is not a single thread that lists all of the most potent F22A bolt-on modifications on this forum. There are some that come close, and they have all certainly been discussed in the past... but it hasn't been compiled into an easy to read list yet.

[drummerwill]

How about some of the DSM parts, I didn't see any of them listed. Like the turbo headers and the injectors.

I'm just learning about this stuff so someone please correct me if I'm wrong!

DSM turbo header and 450CC Injectors:

For 1st Gen: *Injectors: Blue top 450cc for turbo models
found on:
1990-1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS Turbo's and GSX's, 4G63T motors
1990-1994 Plymouth Lasers RS Turbos, 4G63T motors
1990-1994 Eagle Talons TSi's, 4g63T motors

For 2nd Gen:
Found on:
1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T's and GSX's 4g63 motors
1995-1999 Eagle Talon TSi's 4G63 motors


Please correct me if I have any wrong info on here. Thanks!

[PR CB7]

transmission will be the biggest gain, even stock h22's suffer when mated to a p2u5, let alone an auto

start with weight savings
lighter flywheel
f20b crank pulley
m2y4
a "header" with a 2.5" collector
delta cam
s2k TB
h23 plenum ported
some kind of intake CAI (i prefer "ram" styles)


for better results try on a freshly ringed/honed engine, these engines should have 180psi comp with new rings, anything below 150psi and you are wasting your time

also 1k can get you all of these mods done, dont spend that amount of money on a high compression header
remeber 8.8, that is the static compression of the f22a's

[Sleezycb7]

Some of this has been already stated but here's my list

INTAKE:
-CAI
- skunk 2 70mm tb
-tb coolant bypass
-tb spacer/thermal gasket
-f22a6/h23a1 runners
-h23a1 plenum (ecu with Iab solenoid output on pin a17 to utilize fully without killing low end torque, can also delete butterflies, pretty controversial on which is better, I recommend basing off having then hooked to vacuum to use Iab solenoid to control (If you plan to go that route make sure your black box/Iab vacuum canister and solenoid are there and in good working condition))
-thermal intake gaskets

FUEL:
- H22/H23 injectors (I'm not positive but my h23a injectors require a different connector style so you may need to swap/ splice the harness)
-dsm 450cc black top injectors (not positive but also need connectors spliced in)
-wahlboro 255 pump (not a bolt on, but they are just swap in no modification really needed, also possible to use the inline instead of swapping pumps with some modification.)

EXHAUST:
- tubular/ram horn manifold
- 2.25"-2.5" exhaust (this is really on the fence for being a bolt on)
- high flow/no cat

HEAD:
-delta 272 street/strip cam (tune to gain most hp, they say you don't have to change anything with the valve train)
- ported and polished head match to plenum and runners

CRANKCASE:
-balance shaft delete/ belt delete
-light weight pulleys
-light weight flywheel
-higher comp pistons (tune to higher octane and to achieve most hp)

TRANSAXLE:
-h series trans (requires tapping/drilling of two holes but needless to say better gearing)
- stage 2 clutch kit
-shifter bushings (bolt on?? Definitely makes a difference though after 30 years of wear in oem ones)

STEERING AND SUSPENSION:
-Form and Function coilovers
-Rear sway bar (promotes oversteer)
-Front sway bar (better stability, promotes understeer)

BRAKES:
-ROH Conversion (many different ways and parts to use )
-Bigger brakes (ROH conversion comes with this usually depends on parts you use just be advised with caliper clearance inside rim)
-GOOD BRAKE PADS!!! (Dont vouch for cheaper pads, pay the extra $20 for a good set, especially if you like to go fast, unless you like dealing with brake fade after one pull on the highway)
-Rear disc conversion (somewhat controversial due to uneven brake pressure but definitely will grant you better stopping power, again like the roh conversion there are different ways to convert)

MISC:
-Lip (can help mileage aswell as under car drag)
-Wing (I don't mean the $40 one off eBay, cheap plastic and won't do anything, if you're genuinely interested get one you like that is good quality and try to not go crazy, down force isn't going to change that much but it helps when you're flying on the strip/road)
-A/C AND P/S Delete (I'm a man of creature comforts so I haven't done this to gain the power but these cars don't drive bad at all without p/s)
-CLEAN! CLEAN! CLEAN! (Clean all idle systems. Dielectric grease on battery, grounds, and connectors. Use a bottle of your favorite fuel system cleaner in the tank and one in the oil before an oil change. Clean intake and throttle bodies. Clean egr ports if not deleting)
-Oil stabilizer (I've never heard of oiling problems on these cars yet but I like to use it, especially with mods, just to ensure everything is getting proper lubrication.)