Mandrel Bent Exhaust: TIG vs MIG

[CB7Nub]

Well my 20 year old OEM exhaust is destroyed, rusted, and hanging which scrapes on the ground. I need a new exhaust. I am keeping this car for a LONG time.

1) I'm not getting a eBay/no name exhaust or anything like that.
2) I'm also not getting a brand name "cat-back exhaust kit" like Apexi or Magnaflow (yes I said that lol). Mainly do to shipping times and cost of these systems imported into Canada from the USA versus custom. I have to get an exhaust in the next week or so for safety reasons. (The mid pipe is going to drop out soon I think. )

I am looking at a 100% custom setup from the header back. Well cat.
I'm looking to run a new OEM Honda (expensive) or Magnaflow high-flow cat.
I plan to do a H22A swap or full F22A turbo build and make at least 200WHP and build from there and if turbo maybe go just above 300WHP. So I need to make the exhaust compatible for now and then.

I know that 2.25" is best for now. But 2.5" is highly recommend from multiple quality exhaust shops. One in particular which I'll probably go to does amazing work and cares for the customer. They work on exotics to classics, everything.

I'm looking for a next to zero rasp exhaust setup, and if possible not affecting performance as much by making it quieter.
Loud but not death ringing loud with next to no rasp is what I'm looking for if possible.
Cops don't bother me, I've been running a BAD leaking exhaust for about a year now and I sound like a biplane/broken WRX lol with zero torque.
I'm running a Megan 4-2-1 SS header at the moment as a temporary fix for a broken flexpipe which I'll use until the swap/turbo build.
The Megan gaskets will be upgraded at time of exhaust install to v-bands.

Basically I have a couple choices:

1) $650 INSTALLED - Custom 2.5" piping with 18" resonator and custom quality muffler that they make themselves (these mufflers are quality, the metal is like from a truck lol).
2) $750 -$800 INSTALLED - Same as above but all MIG mandrel bent.
3) $900 - $1000 INSTALLED - Same as #1 but TIG mandrel bent.

Now I was also told two 18" resonators helps get rid of ALL rasp but it reduces the flow and thus makes less power. Is this a lot?

I was told that the TIG is just stronger and doesn't rust. Is there any other difference vs a MIG welded mandrel system?

Personally I'm thinking either option 1 or 2.
What's your say?

[BurtonRiderT6]

I plan to do a H22A swap or full F22A turbo build and make at least 200WHP and build from there and if turbo maybe go just above 300WHP. So I need to make the exhaust compatible for now and then.

3" would be ideal for a boost setup.

1) $650 INSTALLED - Custom 2.5" piping with 18" resonator and custom quality muffler that they make themselves (these mufflers are quality, the metal is like from a truck lol).
2) $750 -$800 INSTALLED - Same as above but all MIG mandrel bent.
3) $900 - $1000 INSTALLED - Same as #1 but TIG mandrel bent.

I'm trying to figure out how option one will work. They going to have slip joints? Flanges? If they are not welding it then how are they making it custom? Also all thin metal piping should be TIG'd anyway. MIG shouldn't be used, it should be Flux Core unless they plan on keeping the entire weld bead in the flat position. TIG will give you a prettier finish, and there is less chance for blow through. If it was me I would ask to see some work from them, see what looks better. Look to see if there is any porosity, spatter, and/or grinder marks. A good weld should look like a stack of coins laid down at an angle.

[cb7_with_snail]

No. Dont listen to burton. It really depends. Cause either way you will need custom piping. The h header sits further back than the f. And with the turbo down pipe youll have an awesome time measuring. Dont listen to copy and pasters.

If your not planning a swap or a boost later on go with the cheap one so you wont run into alot more money down the line.

[BurtonRiderT6]

No. Dont listen to burton. It really depends. Cause either way you will need custom piping. The h header sits further back than the f. And with the turbo down pipe youll have an awesome time measuring. Dont listen to copy and pasters.

If your not planning a swap or a boost later on go with the cheap one so you wont run into alot more money down the line.

Yea don't listen to me because if you get a custom exhaust from the CAT back you will have to replace it if you boost it apparently .

A custom cat-back exhaust system will be fine to run NA until you boost. Only difference is you will need to get a turbo manifold and a custom downpipe to meet up with the cat-back.

Some people should learn to read and comprehend the entire post.

[Julio@Bisimoto]

I would recommend doing 2.5in exhaust, mandrel bend, Magnaflow high flow cat, Magnaflow resonator, Magnaflow strait through muffler. This is the same setup I have ran on my street car for both big displacement NA and turbo setup under 350whp. Tig would be more ideal however either way will be fine as long as they know what they are doing. I always have the fabricator coat all the welds with anti-rust primer and paint the exhaust with high temp to prevent any rusting. Don't forget flex pipe and flange at the header connection.

[GhostAccord]

MIG mandrel vote from me!

MIG or TIG ether works just fine if the person knows what they are doing and has the proper equipment. Most times you get someone behind the torch of a MIG machine that has no idea how to weld thin gauge steel and doesn't set the machine up properly or use proper techniques.

[wed3k]

two piece tig with v band flanges

650 dollars! with parts, i think my buddy got his dual exhaust on this ford for under 600 and thats two borla pro xs mufflers.

[CB7Nub]

I went with 2.5" SS MIG welded mandrel bent piping, custom resonator, custom muffler, custom cat. I have one gasket leaking from my shitty Megan header. When that's fixed I'll be able to see a bigger difference. But I definitely feel way more torque than before, or at least more torque down low.

Cost was way more than I was quoted. But I got quality work and I'm happy.
And I don't think I'll ever have any 2nd thoughts.

[megarock15]

i have done alot of fast pace production welding on numerous ford chrysler chevy and dodge exhaust systems. all of that was done with mig on ss. hell they new gen ford focus exhaust was so thin you had to be careful not to bend the entire exhaust system when you put it on the rack. MIG is faster and just as strong in the hands of a good welder while TIG takes a bit longer but looks friggin awsome.

[MortsAccord]

MIG is faster and just as strong in the hands of a good welder while TIG takes a bit longer but looks friggin awsome.

This!

Don't forget oxy/acet torch. You can do real pretty work with one. Im brand mew to welding, and I can weld exhaust without blowing a hole in it with a 200 dollar harbor freight welder. Easy shit. People try to rush welding, you just can't do that.

[BurtonRiderT6]

Don't forget oxy/acet torch. You can do real pretty work with one.

What does a cutting torch have to do with welding?

[Oreellyfool]

I voted 2.5" back with a quality muffler. Though I think your price quoted seems a little steep. I have 2.5" SS back with a new resonator and the piping was only $200 installed with the muffler I came with. I feel as though the the additional $470 for the muffler might be pricey. (This was 3 years ago but I doubt metal prices have sky rocketed that much)

[GhostAccord]

$200 sounds more like the going rate for an aluminized, mild steel, crush bent, pipe clamp exhaust system. Or cheap Chinese 2 year SS exhaust. Your not going to find a complete SS mandrel bent, welded exhaust of any quality for $200. Unless your sleeping with they guy making it....

I bought a $500 Magnaflow car back, they represented it as a SS cat back system. Come to find that it was a cheaply made mass produced system. The only thing that is SS on the entire system is the muffler.