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H Build Just Got Confusing!!!

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    H Build Just Got Confusing!!!

    IM BUILDING AN H22. EVERYTHING WAS FALLING INTO PLACE AND I RUN ACROSS A REALLY good deal on h23 block but it has warpage. heres my problem and queston all in one= iwas considering putting the 23 rods/crank in 22, after some research i realize theres clearance issues if you want to run type-s pistons which in fact have just ordered. can this setup be run safely with stock cams? all the info i found was about people running really big cams which i'm not this is my daily. any help or info would be greatly appreciated

    #2
    What are you building this supposed engine for? Does this "good deal" suit your needs/goals? People find nice stuff for sale all the time, but if it doesn't make sense, you leave it alone. Your build didn't get confusing, it just seems like you don't know what you want. But long story short you're playing with fire on that one....
    '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

    Originally posted by deevergote
    If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

    Comment


      #3
      People run that setup all the time. It will have a .45mm longer throw than it previously did because of the higher compression height of an H22A piston. Using factory cams you won't have any issues with clearance. Anything more aggressive and I would say that adjustable cam gears and flaying the engine would be mandatory. You don't know whether or not your engine block or head has ever been milled or decked before.
      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks Jarrett, joey. The engine is just for DD and fun. After alittle more research I've discovered I cant use he crank out of that H23. Correct me if I'm wrong but all the older H/F had 50mm main and the A4's and F23 had 55mm mains, well my block is an A4 so I could use an F23 crank/rod combo(which I happen to have in back corner of my garage), with type-s pistons and as long as I dont go big on the cams I should be safe as far piston to valve clearance??? I have very little money involved in this swap and have very little budget. How durable, and how do these setups rev? Or should I just stick with h22 internals with type-s pistons and let it eat, not building a track car but I would like to have some fun with it

        Comment


          #5
          All '98+ F/H-series engines used 55mm main journals. If you have a '97 H22A4 then you still have 50mm mains. That's why those from whom you will receive reliable information insist on you providing your information as specific as possible. To that point, if you were referring to an H23A VTEC crankshaft then its 95mm crank would work in a 55mm main H22A4 because all of them were produced after '98.

          To your plans on using H22A Type S pistons with an F23AX crankshaft, I hope you know that your rod choices are limited. Honda used a B-series style rod journal for the F23AX and the F20B so you're limited to rods with 48mm journals. If you use it with the 141mm F23AX rod then your piston will protrude from the bore by an entire millimeter. Most will say that's too much. You would need about a .040" headgasket to clear it and you would still have a compression ratio in the 12.35:1 range. It's up to you whether or not you want to run that high.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

          Comment


            #6
            fyi, the h23 crank and rods have pt2 stamped, meaning they're f22's

            using f23 crank and rods, will make your engine a true 2.3 not a 2253cc

            i suggest balancing the whole bottom since the f23 crank is 2mm bigger than a f22 and the rod is .5 smalller, its not going to like to be revved like the head wants it too.

            eventually you'll spin a bearing, that bottom end and its configuration doesnt like to be handled past 7.5k which is impossible to not pass on stock cams

            for a stroker, the best crank/rod to use is a f22 since its been proven that balanced right, this crank can handle 8k with no problem
            Originally posted by deevergote
            Just do what PR CB7 said.

            "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

            Comment


              #7
              JUST TO CLARIFY THE H23 I WAS REFERRING TO WAS 92-96 H23. I WILL DOUBLE CHECK MY BLOCK TO SEE WHAT YEAR IT IS BUT i'M ALMOST FOR CERTAIN IT HAS 55MM MAINS. IF I USE F23 CRANK RODS WITH STOCK USDM H22 PISTONS WILL THAT YIELD GOOD POWER AND ELIMINATE THE CLEARANCE ISSUE. IM JUST RUNNING STOCK CAMS, BUT I REALLY WANT TO USE THESE TYPE-S PISTONS. MAYBE ILL PLAY IT SAFE JUST KEEP BOTTOM END H22 WITH TYPE-S PISTONS, HEAD IS STOCK BUT IT IS EITHER JDM H22/JDMF20 BECAUSE IT HAS DUAL VALVE SPRINGS, MAYBE I CAN TYPE-S CAMS AND NOT HYBRID,

              Comment


                #8
                The correct nomenclature for that H23 is H23A1. That way everyone knows exactly what you're referring to.

                To determine what head you have you'll only need to look at the casting marks. An H22A head, whether it's JDM or USDM will be a P13. The DOHC VTEC F20B head is a PCB.

                PR_CB7 is right. PirateMcFred is probably the most notable people to have built an H-series engine with an F23AX rotating assembly. He has documented excessive bearing wear on his first build and you can pretty much guarantee you would see the same results if you used OEM bearings.
                My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Dont Want That Headache Or Money Pit Will Probably Just Go Back To Plan A: Stick With Stock Internals Adding Type-s Pistons And Maybe A Set Of Cams. Even Though I Have Most Of What I Need Already This Is For A Dd. I Appreciate All The Info Gentlemen. If Anyone Is Interested In F23 Bottom End Parts Pm Me Ill Make Someone A Good Deal.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    if that h23 is 92-96,it is a h23a1 and uses 50mm mains
                    if that you are positive that h23 has 55mm mains, then its a h23a vtec and its 97-01 only

                    so you're mistaken on what parts you have

                    honestly, leave your rotating assembly alone, and just get type s pistons, and call it a day

                    FYI all h series heads came dual valve springs
                    Originally posted by deevergote
                    Just do what PR CB7 said.

                    "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Then why do people have problems with type s cams in usdm heads wearing out rocker assembly
                      Last edited by speedracer450r; 07-20-2012, 10:13 PM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        it's either insufficient lubricant in the oil nowadays or theres incompatibility with the metal

                        same question can be asked why do cams go flat?
                        I <3 G60.

                        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yeah, it has nothing to do with their dependence on being installed in a PDE head which is a popular theory. So far there have been a couple people with issues but an overwhelming number of people without. The ones without problems just happen to not whine about it. Also, Honda probably wouldn't have put them in the manual transmission F20B.
                          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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