Please DO NOT Post In The General Section

From this point on until otherwise briefed, posting in the general section of Performance Tech is prohibited. The only thing to remain here will be the stickies. We would just delete this section, but that would cause unintended results.

The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.

For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.

Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.

Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
See more
See less

8000+ RPM Only Club

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    8000+ RPM Only Club

    Purpose: I want all members that have motors that rev 8000 RPM and above to chime in here, it doesn't matter if your forced induction, nitrous or all-motor.

    Answer the following:

    1) Which motor do you have?

    2) What RPM do you rev to regularly?

    3) What is your entire oil system setup?

    4) What precautions not mentioned have you taken to prevent spun bearings?

    5) Any other relative information can be listed here.

    NOTE: Anything not relevant, will be deleted.
    Last edited by HondaFan81; 02-01-2008, 07:53 PM.
    HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

    1) F22ax SOHC non-VTEC block & head (white project)

    2) I will be revving to 8500-9000 RPM.

    3) New Endyn modified OEM F22 oil pump @ 105 psi max by 3500-4000 RPM, OEM engine bearings, F22a6 oil pick-up/windage tray combination, stock F22 oil pan.

    4) All engine bearings set to looser end of factory clearance specs, Autometer oil temp & oil pressure gauges, after 3000 mile mark will use Torco SR-1 5W-30 synthetic motor oil. Also, used Torco MTZ engine assembly lube in preparation for first start.

    5) Full Bisimoto F22 valvetrain (valve springs, titanium retainers, teflon exhaust rocker spacers), Bisimoto F22 stage 3 camshaft, will use 30 coolant/70 water mixture in spring/summer. New radiator, radiator hoses, thermostat & water pump. Lighter/stronger forged rods/pistons, 8.5 lb flywheel and stock F22 crank pulley.
    Last edited by HondaFan81; 02-05-2008, 05:57 PM.
    HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)


      Even tho mine isn't running anymore.

      1) JDM F22A. H23 IM/TB, basic header, 2.5" exhaust

      2) Revved that summabitch to 8k everyday it ran.

      3) Stock oil setup

      4) Careful tuning. I didn't go crazy with timing at all. Kept it nice and conservative. 25* to be exact at WOT redline.

      5) I was on stock valve train, 282 delta regrind and my own tuning

      CrzyTuning now offering port services


        1) 1999 Honda Prelude H22 motor

        2) When racing I shift at 8k

        3) STOCK

        4) None

        5) 8lb flywheel


          1) various year h22's, stock with bolt ons.

          2)several times had set the rev limit to allow me to rev to 8200, this was done at the track to see if it helped. It never helped times ar traps.


          4)none and they seem to have worked since 2 engines that have done this are still in great shape years later.


          I also currently have an engine that is not yet run that i expect to go between 8500-9k on, forged rods, forged pistons, balanced bottom end, portflow springs, crower 3 cams and other work to enhance reliability at high rpm. Still stock oiling though, I do not expect to need anything fancy for this one.


            1. H22A with your basic bolt ons : Intake, Header, 2.5" Crush bent cat back, P28 temp untuned, h23 trans

            2. No rev limit but I take it t o 8k when runnin at the track but normally on the street around 7500.

            3. Factory.

            4. Factory but planning on monitoring later on when I take my car to the next level.

            5. XTD stage 3, BB4 shifter.

            The New-ish Ride
            My old Ride
            Hear my Vtak!!!
            MK3 Member #3
            I piss off people for fun.
            IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1


              1) JDM B18c (Type R)

              2) 8,500RPM

              3) Piston Oil Squirters.

              4) None.

              5) All Stock

              Owner of


                1. JDM H22

                2. 8k when racing.....7500k daily driving

                3. stock

                4. common sense

                5. 8lb flywheel, I/H/E, race car driver in former life.

                Nitrous is like a hot chick with a STD..... you know you wanna hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences.....

                ...Zex wet kit, 65 shot, dual purge, JDM H22...pure sex! .....I owned 8 CB7's in one that
                ...this thread has been graced by the new CB7 King



                  2) 8,200RPM

                  3) Piston Oil Squirters, relocated oil filter to the top of engine bay,toyo roki s2000 oil filter,royal purple 5w30

                  4) None.

                  5)arospeed 4-1 header with 2.5" collector, greddy 2.5" catback exhuast, magnaflow 3" oval muffler.


                    1: H22/H23/F22 Franken Hybrid

                    2: Tuned to 8500, reved to 8k when racing, 7k on the street. (Would rev higher but I loose power at 7800 or so)

                    3:Stock H22 oil pump, H22 piston squirters, kaizen speed BS eliminator, minor clean-up of upper head area to promote oil drainage back to the pan, Moroso baffled Pan and Moroso Pick-up, factory H22 crank scrapers, -4 turbo line with no restrictor, -10 return line, B&M oil cooler with -10 lines, Autometer oil pressure and temp guage, oem Honda filters, and once broken in mobil one 5-30w oil., otherwise broken in on Rotella Diesel oil.

                    4: Arp bolts on everything, crower rods, fully balanced rotating assembly, ACL coated bearing on loose side of stock. Piston skirts coated with anti-scuff coating and heat coating on piston tops. Ring gaps a bit loose but under full boost seem to seal up very well.

                    5: Lightwieght valves +1mm OS, full crower valvetrain, Delta 260 cams, lightwieght crank pully and flywheel. Bore and stroke altered but not alot

                    Haven't spun any bearings, did cook one pretty well and needed replacing, no damage to the crank.
                    Turbo H23a3 build has begun


                      1: Dohc F20B SIR-T
                      2: 8200 every now and then when it was running
                      3: stock form factory( didnt the h22's, b16/18 come with oil squirters?)
                      4: nothing if it came from the factory to be able ot run to 9k lol i dont think i have anything to worry bout revving to 8200
                      5:Being built atm

                      PSN ID's:Tidashoni
                      1992 Accord EX Coupe
                      My FS Thread
                      Not so DD 2013 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
                      Originally posted by deevergote
                      Boosting with a carb is like being a sniper with a bazooka... it works, it gets the job done, but it's not the most precise method.


                        8200 rpm daily...
                        Stock with 2 1/2" exhaust and 100 shot of juice....
                        8200 rpm everyday going on two years now.
                        No precautions taken
                        Last edited by koolkoreanked; 02-05-2008, 09:14 PM.
                        Oil leak?What oil leak? That's just sweat from all that horsepower!

                        Applied knowledge is power!

                        NITROUS FOR YOUR BODY

                        registration is free