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p06 what to chip it with?

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    p06 what to chip it with?

    I am in the process of trying to turbo my cb, but before I start I want to get car ready so I can tune it. The only thing I have is the p06 ecu. is it better to chip the ecu with a hondata s100? or should I use this http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=42. I dont know were to start.

    #2
    That is just the PHYSICAL chipping. Those components need to be soldered onto the ecu.

    If you wish to buy the Hondata software, you'll need to let them know so they can send you a different "socket" as Hondata isn't your normal style board. Just because an ecu is chipped to be able to accept a hondata board doesn't mean it has hondata. It's just hondata ready.

    Same goes with the traditional style of socket. It's chipped. Big whoop. You still need to use some software to burn a chip and be able to tune your car.

    CrzyTuning now offering port services

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      #3
      If you want to socket the ECU yourself, here's a step by step from another forum I'm on.

      http://d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=87320

      As for the rest of the tuning, it really depends how comfortable you are with your own abilities. If you want to street tune yourself or have access to a dyno here's a link for the basics you'll need:

      http://www.tunewithcrome.com/

      Once you have all of this, you'll be ready to tune yourself however you'll then also need to know the basics behind tuning such as modifying the fuel and timing parameters, sensor inputs and the impact they play on the ECU's calibration, duty cycles, etc. Do a little reading here and it should answer alot of your questions.

      www.pgmfi.org
      Last edited by boostdelinquent; 03-18-2009, 04:47 AM.

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        #4
        Originally posted by boostdeliquent View Post
        If you want to socket the ECU yourself, here's a step by step from another forum I'm on.

        http://d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=87320
        That is a great DIY but they missed out on an important step in my opinion. Anyone else notice how contaminated the solder points looked after he was done de-soldering it? That messy looking melted goo all around the pin holes could possibly cause a bad solder joint/connection. It could melt and create a barrier between the two objects to be soldered. It's not 100% that it is going to cause a problem, but there is a possibility. Just like welding stainless, your working environment should be clean and contaminant free when soldering a computer board.

        That messy contamination is there because he is working on the board while it still has it's protective enamel/coating on it. That also makes it harder to remove the solder from the pin holes. In leaving the enamel on the board you have to melt it and the solder in order to remove it. Takes twice as long IMO.

        The step that I would suggest between having the board completely out and de-soldering is to spray both sides of the board in the areas to be worked on with carburetor/throttle body cleaner. While it's still wet softly scrub (soft bristle tooth brush) the areas to remove the OEM enamel/coating from the areas. Spray it once again to remove the material that you scrubbed off. Repeat these steps until all the coating is removed from the areas you are going to be soldering. It's pretty easy to tell when it's been removed.
        Last edited by GhostAccord; 03-21-2009, 09:20 AM.
        MR Thread
        GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

        by Chappy, on Flickr

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          #5
          Thanks for the info. I'll def. have to keep that in mind, next time I socket an ECU.

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