Every since ive had my turbo installed, had all new rebuild, all new seal but didnt put the head studs in, well its overheated on me after a few days cause i think its getting air in the coolant, the hoses after i run it a little while which are brand new are hard and cant sqish them in at all hardly after it builds up pressure, any way have change everything even though it was already new, new mishimoto radiator and fan that stays on the whole time the cars running, thermostat and nothing, water pump, bleeding it over and over, everything u can think of, then one of my really smart buddies that knows his turbos said that the arp studs will prob fix it cause the air had to be getting in between the head and lifts when under boost cause they seal it up better and will be pulling the head down on the block, just want to hear some comments and if anyone has had this prob..... thanks
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Head raising causing air to get into coolant and run hot
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Originally posted by tootall View PostAnyone had this prob, guess im going to put the studs in tonight and put it back together, the only other thing or place i couls be getting air in would be all the coolant lines on the intake manifold, maybe blocking all them off if this dont work.....
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looks like that was the problem, no overheating at all after boosting then letting it sit and idle for a very long time for 5 days now, amazes me that was the prob but my buddy was right, he knows his stuff. thanks. ARP studs seal so much better for people that havent tried them yet or havinmg this prob.......... josh...
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I agree, ARP head studs are a must when it comes to high performance whether being a force induction setup or high compression naturally aspirated. Of course making sure to have flat surfaces on both the cylinder head and block deck, along with a good quality multi-layer steel head gasket is crucial for a reliable setup.
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Originally posted by Julio@Bisimoto View PostI agree, ARP head studs are a must when it comes to high performance whether being a force induction setup or high compression naturally aspirated. Of course making sure to have flat surfaces on both the cylinder head and block deck, along with a good quality multi-layer steel head gasket is crucial for a reliable setup.
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I highly doubt that you were lifting the head at such little boost. Im guessing that you had a faulty headgasket or improperly torqued or reused headbolts.
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Originally posted by turbo90accord View PostI highly doubt that you were lifting the head at such little boost. Im guessing that you had a faulty headgasket or improperly torqued or reused headbolts.
How do you know how much air he is pushing?
Hes pulling pretty good times, low 12's. And, he has a shitty tune running as lean as 20:1 at WOT while burning no fluids and not leaking anything. I've been helping him through email, but I thought and do think he was lifting his head.
It would only overheat after extended periods of positive pressure, and then afterwards he would find no coolant in the res/radiator. Blew several OEM radiators in the process. The car had no symptoms until he ran positive pressure.
upgraded to ARP studs, no problems since.Originally posted by wed3kim a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
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Thank u for that. And thanks for all your help. toycar is the man, my car wouldnt be doing anything like it is if it wasnt for this guy! It wasnt the re torque of the bolts or the headgasket at all, just letting everyone know that, thanks..... and thanks to the other people who gave there input also.
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coolant hoses building pressure
Ok thought my prob was fixed because it still hasnt overheated at all yet and can drive it around all day and boost every little bit and its fine, but if i boost alot for long periods of time, its building pressure in the two main radiator hoses and spitting or seeping a little out of the radiator cap which i know the caps good, mishimoto radiator with 19 psi cap, new thermostat and did it with two other radiators before the mishimoto, already took the head off a while back and put the arp studs and new headgasket and still runs perfect, just builds pressure after long periods of boost and drips out rad cap, still hasnt overheated once. any ideas..thank, just want some input or bounce some ideas around or if anyone has had this prob, thanks
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Did you re tq the arp studs after getting it up to operating temperatures?
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