SpeedFactory F22A Turbo Manifold

[toycar]

You can get pre-bent mandrel sections on the cheap. It would take some trial and error to find the appropriate bend and sections to cut, but once the R&D was done you could fab these for $75-$80 give or take and maybe 10-12 hours of your time. 1 5/8" material isn't that expensive at all. Aside from that, you have a collector and a flange. Thats it.



I count 10 pieces total in the manifold.


-Collector
-Exhaust mani flange
-2 short sections on end of runners to create angle for mating runner to flange.
-2 short sections for finishing that angle on the end runners.
-4 small sections of pipe for runners.

-Flange for mating to cylinder head is probably $20-$30 for a quality peice. I would use an undrilled DSM flange and drill it correctly from square one because they are readily available.

-Collector, varies on prices. Could be $75-$80. Depends on what turbo you are running. I personally could fab my own, so cost here is minimal. If you bought an off the shelf unit, that would drive production costs to $160-$180. I could fab one for 2-3 hours of my time and $20 in materials.

-Various sections of mandrel bend. Probably $30-$50 depending on your supplier. It looks like a 60 degree unit on the ends, and maybe 90 degree units cut at the start of the angle for the shorter runners.

Once you made the jigs for holding everything in place and worked the R&D into the production of the manifold, I bet you could turn these out for less than $100. Again, lots of variables here.


The rest is measuring, geometry and welding. It really isn't rocket science to fab something like this.



***Edit***


Mandrel bend 1 5/8" 11.99

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...47417/10002/-1

Collector $46:

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...steel-839.html

T3 Turbo inlet flange $17:

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog...steel-765.html

DSM flange, I can get these for $25.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ry_Code=MFMISU




So, as you can see the materials to fab this really isn't that expensive at all. Keep in mind that you could cut those costs in half if you dealt with a supplier rather than a retailer. I have a local guy that I buy all my shit through, and its much cheaper than even those prices. These prices listed are for retail, and available to anyone. Get in good with someone local and you'll see these prices cut in half if not more. I buy scraps from a local exhaust shop on the super cheap.

[deevergote]

Honestly, you could just cut/grind the flange from a stock manifold. Enlarge the ports if necessary.

$100 or so to purchase the materials, plus the need to have the equipment and skill necessary to fabricate (things most tuners don't have... I certainly don't!) OR you could take those materials to a fabricator with your designs, perhaps even with pre-cut pipes that just need to be assembled. Unless that welder is your buddy, chances are good that he'll charge at least $300 for his time and effort.
Thus, you have a $400 piece that required a good deal of effort, designed by an amateur (yourself), and welded by someone who may or may not have experience building such a manifold. For $150-$200 more, you can simply order this one and be sure that it fits, and is made properly.


Just playing devil's advocate, as usual.

[toycar]

Honestly, you could just cut/grind the flange from a stock manifold. Enlarge the ports if necessary.

$100 or so to purchase the materials, plus the need to have the equipment and skill necessary to fabricate (things most tuners don't have... I certainly don't!) OR you could take those materials to a fabricator with your designs, perhaps even with pre-cut pipes that just need to be assembled. Unless that welder is your buddy, chances are good that he'll charge at least $300 for his time and effort.
Thus, you have a $400 piece that required a good deal of effort, designed by an amateur (yourself), and welded by someone who may or may not have experience building such a manifold. For $150-$200 more, you can simply order this one and be sure that it fits, and is made properly.


Just playing devil's advocate, as usual.

Yeah I'm with you. It's not saving much money if you don't have the tools already, and its very tedious, time consuming work.

You don't see me offering to fill the gap in the market. No way.

The cheapest I ever built a manifold for was $600. It's hard to get right the first time through it. Fabbing the jig is equally hard as fabbing the manifold. Once the r&d was worked out you could turn a profit over the long haul selling a bunch of these. Building the 1st one would take 3 times longer than the second and every other one going forward.


And just its out there a REAL custom manifold would use valve lift/duration and the cfm of the engine to determine the ideal length of the runners. It's not just about connecting the dots. The runners need to merge correctly so they don't fight with eachother. It'd also equally important that the volume of air flowing into the runner isn't greater than the runner can hold. You don't need/want unnecessary pressure in the runner.

The length needed in the runner would influence the placement of the collector. Having requirements like retaining factory radiator, ac and ps makes things pretty complex in the engineering of any manifold.


Anyways, I'm just carrying on at this point. I hope I inspired at least one person to read/learn and do it themselves.

[NWaccord]

I'm with you guys, but after being quoted 1300$ for a top mount to retain my A/C I decided to give myself a try on one. And boy was it a PITA ....
I did all the R&D and just tacked welded it. A friend of mine is doing the full welding on it. Very happy with the way its turning out but even then I still would not recommend it, unless, as you guys have stated its all there.....

Place I bought my schedule 10 from: http://www.acestainless.com/butt-wel...nless-weld-els

[toycar]

I'm with you guys, but after being quoted 1300$ for a top mount to retain my A/C I decided to give myself a try on one. And boy was it a PITA ....
I did all the R&D and just tacked welded it. A friend of mine is doing the full welding on it. Very happy with the way its turning out but even then I still would not recommend it, unless, as you guys have stated its all there.....

Place I bought my schedule 10 from: http://www.acestainless.com/butt-wel...nless-weld-els

Good shit man!


Its always worth it to do some of your own work for a custom one piece. Got any pics?

[dbsharp]

Building a proper manifold isn't so easy the first time you do it. Even if you only have 10 hours into making a manifold and about $100 in supplies, if you sell it for $400 your only making 30/hr. After the cost of equipment, overhead, tooling, labor, etc... your not making any money. The only way this could be profitable enough for someone to want to do it, is if they charge a lot, or they make a lot of them at once and spend more time and money on making the fixturing and machining more efficient. If you do that then you have to count on being able to sell them or loose your ass. lol

[turbo90accord]

That manifold doesn't look efficient at all, Ive found that on the F series motor having an equal length manifold really does make all the difference. I made about 40 more HP swapping to my current equal length manifold from my previous manifold which was fairly similar to the speed factory one. The key is to have each exhaust pulse hit the turbine wheel in succession not in an unregulated and mismatched pattern.

For most setups that manifold would work just fine, but for squeezing every ounce of power out of a setup i wouldn't go with that manifold. But nice to see another option for the F series turbo crowd.

[Macaqueistrong]

Anyone know what there selling for?

Just got off the phone with them. Ricky is the fabricator and he told me that they are priced at $699 use T3 flange only, can't be used with A/C and clear the factory alternator bracket. I spaced out and forgot to ask him what car it was test fitted on. He also said it was mounted with a Precision turbo 6262.