1. I've seen dsm's run in the 9's with a stock style manifold. I am using it for one, the ports fit perfect. It is cast iron, which is durable for a streetcar. When i buy a tig welder then i'll make a 3 foot long tubular manifold, but until then, there is nothing else for the f22a that compares to the DSM manifold. Log manifolds are garbage, and a big waste, and that is the only thing you will find for an F22a head.
2. The EMS is the shit. It is one of the newer models with a built in wideband controller that has automapping by AFR... It has everything i could ever need plus more. Fuck burning chips... I have a GM boost solenoid that the EMS controls, and is for boost control. The EMS has traction control. You can use any sensor off any car with the EMS.....It is the best.
Oh, and i already wrote a base map to 25psi. Obviously it will need tweeking, but it should run fine. I got the ems a few months ago for the reason of learning the system before i use it. And i learned it very well.
3. The 60-1 is the shit. Most all compressor wheels out were made in the 70's. The 60-1 wheel was made in the 90s i think. It is a lot more efficient, and has a great surge line while supplying an awesome amount of air. I did all the calculations months ago, and the 60-1 is the perfect turbo for my setup. Yes i could of gotten a smaller 60 trim or 54 trim, but from what i've seen the 60-1 has a tendencey to put out the dyno #'s. I dont want a fast spooling turbo. I had a 14b on there and it spooled at 3000. 3000 rpm spool sucks. The 60-1 should be fully spooled around 4000rpm. That is exactly what i want. I'm using the H23 5spd so between shifts it will stay fully spooled.
4. The internal wastegate is 38mm, and it runs out of a victory performance 02 housing which flows very well. I would rather run an external, but a good external setup is atleast another grand. Obviously i'm not going to boost it up to 22psi anytime soon. I'm going to gradually boost it up little by little and see how it does. I only plan to run 15psi on the street and i know it can flow enough for that. I'm just going to have to be very careful when i do decide to raise the boost. I'll just keep an eye on it...
5.
As you can see i put atleast 10 hours into the head.
As for the intake manifold, that is a secret. I run a F22a6 lower on the H23 upper, but i took it apart, and fucking gutted it out. I big as plenium, and 4 short large runners. Took atleast 20 hours. Then it got portmatched and polished. The plenium is more then double the size of the H23 plenium.
I'm using the stock H23 throttlebody for the next month. a 75mm tbody is on my "i want" list, but thats like $400...
6. The delta 272 cam is on a 113 degree lobe seperation. It is fine. 114 is ideal for boost. Stock is like 116. I've been running this cam for a while. On my nitrous only setup the car gained huge power. Then with the 14b setup the cam worked awesome. No boost bleed off. It does not have much overlap at all. It think it is an excellent boost cam. I really loved it with the old turbo. The car would absolutely scream about 4000rpm, so it should work great on my new setup. From the specs of the cam, it appears to be good to 7400rpm, and even on the old setup, power never fell off to 6800rpm.
7. In case you didnt know, single 2.5" piping is good to around 450hp(according to Corkey Bell). The 2.5" downpipe was custom made for my old setup. Between the turbo and the downpipe i have a very good flowing VP o2 housing. I'm going to use this setup for now, but plan to run the car open downpipe at the track. It is stainless steel. It cost me almost $500 to get made. I probably will be selling it sometime... I know a lot of people wouldnt mind bidding on that one... I plan to get atleast 3" to possibly 3.5" full custom turbo back done. I'm probably going to make it myself. This summer me and a friend are splitting the price of a tig welder...
Anyway i have stuff to do... Peace
good job on the work mang 
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