Full (soon-to-be) Race Ready

[MRX]

This is all very entertaining, and I'm not "Dr. Phil" but I would expect someone in your position to be a bit more humble. I mean, your pics don't exactly speak volumes in regards to your ego thusfar...... IMHO Sorry if it seems I'm "bashing", just trying to be constructive....

I didn't see any ego from him. But i do think he's been heavily misinformed.

[92ex]

Your looking at about $6000 worth of engine performance stuff, this is excluding suspension, and required ignition things, I only calculated engine performance(trans, pistons, headgasket, etc).

Here's a little list of some of the performance stuff that will be on my engine in hopefully 18months.

t3/t04e $600
Log Manifold(Not what I'm gonna use) $300
Debating between Pistons:
DH racing pistons $400
Arias Pistons $415
DH Racing Head- Quoted around $800(h23 head)
Forged rods- $700 (not sure which brand)
*I believe crower offers econo rods that can withstand moderate boost for $450
Delta Camshaft- $100(SOHC)
AEM cam gear- $115
3" kteller.com exhaust + muffler- $350
Tial 38mm wastegate - $215
ACT clutch- $400
AEM FPR- $165
JRC 6" Intercooler- $200 (website is down so don't quote me)
Oil Lines- $85
Walbro Pump- $100
Maxbore.com TB- $100
Axles- $800


Thats about 5000 right there, I left off a few things, but the upgraded valvetrain and such, I mean, right there will put down hell a lot morepower then the 14b setup you wanted. Look around and price things out. PM me with any questions

[92ex]

+ chipped ecu and uberdata

[maroonaccord2.2]

I didn't see any ego from him. But i do think he's been heavily misinformed.

Ya, well read some of his other posts in other noob threads......for instance:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=44418

I'll be glad to put my "foot in mouth" when I see his CB "race-ready"....

[F22Turbo702]

I wish I had seen this post earlier because I have the urge to...well I guess it doesn't matter now, 92ex said all I needed to say. This whole plan needs to be rethought because dreams of 400hp drag/roadrace cars with wild cams and custom intake manifolds are great but with a 14b turbo and no engine management....well, I suppose the day dreams of a youthful mind must be crushed before anything truly great can come of them....oh, and just so you can't say this wasn't creative critisism...a good suspension is worth just as much as huge power. And i find that keeping a notebook by my side at all times is very helpful.

Peace,
-Kyle

[v4lu3s]

in a circuit type race you are going to heatsoak that weenie sized sidemount, and probably have problems due to the heated air, as well as the fact that you are gonna overheat most likely as well. you can get away without adequate cooling and intercooling when you make one pass and can cool down, but in a circuit type race you are gonna heat that shit up a LOT more.
also your choice of shocks or that style of racing is a pretty poor one, look at least into illuminas if not Koni Yellows.
Dont waste money on a high output alterantor unless this race car is gonna run 1500 watts of car stereo.
upgrade that turbo and manifold while you are at it. especially with the cam and higher flowing parts.

[SoySauceCb7]

o you didnt build this yet? hm ok well i guess your looking for advise. ill say balance is key. power means nothing on touge. Cb7 has tons of room for improvement over stock, however not much tuning potential compared to some others. But just remember balance is key. I personally think your spending all your money in completely the wrong place. but meh what do i know LOL

+1 for the win, your spendin $$ on the wrong parts

[KillerCam282]

in a circuit type race you are going to heatsoak that weenie sized sidemount, and probably have problems due to the heated air, as well as the fact that you are gonna overheat most likely as well. you can get away without adequate cooling and intercooling when you make one pass and can cool down, but in a circuit type race you are gonna heat that shit up a LOT more.
also your choice of shocks or that style of racing is a pretty poor one, look at least into illuminas if not Koni Yellows.
Dont waste money on a high output alterantor unless this race car is gonna run 1500 watts of car stereo.
upgrade that turbo and manifold while you are at it. especially with the cam and higher flowing parts.

This guy took most of it out of my mind.

Again, 14B and circuit racing just don't mix. You should be looking for a ball bearing unit, preferably a T3 and up. Step your suspension up and get revalved Tein coilovers. SMIC's also have no home in a circuit race. Unless this race last for 2 laps, then you will be fine. High output alternators are used in race cars running EMS's like the Electromotive Tec3 that have 1 coil per cylinder. I highly doubt you need one for a 6AL.

Accords have traction issues so its best to neutralize their horrendous understeer. The ST swaybars are not a bad idea. How about some poly bushings? Much better than that soft comfy stock rubber crap. And if you are seriously circuit racing, find out what class you qualify for. I can tell you right now, you can't be building for SCCA. If you are, your opponents are NSX's, 300ZX's, Supras, Mustangs, and the rest of the horsepower warriors. In other words, your mods place you in GT1 where the competition is nice and steep. I'd research and rethink everything if I were in your shoes. Also, lets not forget to be full race you need: A racing helmet, The appropriate harness belt, cage or roll bar (which you addressed), and window net. Find out what circuit you are qualifying yourself for. Turboing that motor will send you into GT1, no questions asked.

P.S. The Gear-Speed Level 1 tranny will not do anything for traction. Got to the Level 2 which is equipped with an LSD. Otherwise, you are paying 1600 shipped just to shift faster. Get some real traction and go LSD.

P.S. Again: Find out if your class of racing allows slicks. BFG G-Force TA's etc. are excellent street tires. For competition, you need something much more aggressive. Just remember to change tires when you leave the track. AA traction and 100 treadwear cost too much cash to drive on everyday.

I could go on and on, but depends on how serious you are about this.

[KillerCam282]

Modifications

BFGoodrich g-force T/A KD 205/50YR15- $131 ea.(2) Front
Sumitomo HTR Tour 205/55R 15- owned
Front & Rear Upper Strut Tower Bars & Rear Lower Tie Bar PN# HD94AC-6950SBX- $49.46
Driveshaftshop Lvl 2 Performance Axle 400hp- $699.98
Suspension Tech. Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit PN# 52135- #361.13
Tokico Premium Performance Shocks PN# HU3714(2-F) & HU2896(2-R)- $309.99
Skunk 2 Race Lowering Springs (2.25-2.5") PN#519-05-1630- $182.16
Powerslot Brake Rotor Front PN# 480+0575/6- $65.98 ea.
AEM High Performance Brake Pads PN# 655+0681- $67.61
Exedy Stg 2 Cllutch Kit PN#8952- $378.00
Gear Speed Hi-Performance Transmission Type I PN# AH_t_01- $1,395.00
Fidanza Lightweight Billet Aluminum Flywheel (9lbs) PN# PT191221- $181.95
Magstar Super Inductive Ignition Wires- owned
MSD modified Distributor Cap w/ Tec Dist. PN# 8292- $28.36
Generic SHort Ram Intake- owned
Injen Aluminum Filter Heat Shield PN# HS5000P- $41.58
Skunk 2 Cam Gears Blue PN# 304-05-0230- $121.38
AEM Universal Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator Blue PN# PT25-300B- $169.95
AEM High Volume Fuel Rail Blue PN# PT25-104B- $133.95
Skunk 2 Pro Series Billet Aluminum Throttle Body(68mm) PN# PT309-05-0040- $275.95
Unorthodox Racing Ultra S Lightened Aluminum Underdrive Crank Pulley Silver PN# PT020610202- $159.95
Performance Custom Camshaft- $299.00
Single Valve Spring Set Upgrade- $149.00
NOS, Turbo, Supercharged MLS Head Gasket- $79.00
Custom Forged Pistons- $695.00
Rings Total Seal Designs (piston Rings)- $159.00
Balanced & Micro Polished Crankshaft- $395.00
Front Lower Crankshaft Seal- $2.95
Block Guard- $109.00
Modified High Flow Oil Pump- $150.00
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug- $16.95
High Volume High Performance Fuel Pump- $259.00
Custom Race Intake Manifold- $329.00
Honda 160 Degree Thermostat- $47.95
170amp Alternator- $569.00 (not sure if i will get it)
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs- owned
1g 14b turbo w/manifold- owned
Oil cooler w/ all fittings and lines- owned
Oil feed and return line- gathering as we speak
MSD 6AL Multiple Discharge Spark- owned
MSD Blaster Coil 2- owned
Side Mount Intercooler 1g DSM- owned
1g DSM BOV- owned
1g Downpipe- owned
450cc DSM injectors 1g- owned
Carbon Dynamic OEM Style Hood PN# HD90AC-7586H0X- $349.99
Shark Style Fenders Carbon Fiber Pair PN# 410ZFCF- $440.00 (cannot find OEM, which is what I prefer)
Performance Distributor Dyna-Batt Dry Cell Battery PN#5575B- $147.25
^the tray for above PN# 5475- $75.05 (relocating battery to the rear center of trunk in place of spare tire)

After having a good nights sleep, I decided to look over this list closely. I have news for you, this is street/strip at best.

I have some news for you that you may find interesting.

Progress has deemed the OEM front swaybar to be suffice. Thus they only make the rear sway bar. Price 150 shipped. I strongly recommend Poly bushings. (Poly Graphite is self lubricating from what HondaFan81 tells me)

Summit Racing battery relocation kit 50 shipped.

A bigger turbo, but that has been said plenty of times in this thread. Ball bearing is great for circuit use.

Based on the price of your strut bars, that must be some megan pivot point crap. Step it up and get some solid bars. The elusive Neuspeed is not a bad choice, or go custom. Rear lower tie bar is to look pretty, as its known to have no function on a CB7.

If you are so weight conscious, get an Optima made for Civics. They are half the size of the usual battery. And only go for 110.

Powerslot rotors and Hawk HPS is the best budget brake upgrade for the CB7. Might want to add some SS braided lines to further increase the braking response.

Get an LSD. You need that much more than carbon synchros found in your Gearspeed tranny.

Consider a higher capacity and baffled oil pan.

The alternator is not really needed. I just wouldn't trust a stock one in a couple hour long race. 150 Amp alternators cost 229 on ebay.

Blockguard is weak. Use only if there is a displacement restriction. Even then, swap cranks and rods with the H22 if you bump your bore up.

Where are your safety upgrades?

Oil cooler is good. Your SMIC isn't. What about your radiator? How about larger fans?

Address chassis stiffness. You may want to get in on the traction bar group buy.

Your spring/shock setup needs serious reconsideration.

New Balljoints and Outer tie rods won't hurt any.

Why 2 different brands of tires? You are looking to either promote oversteer or understeer. I can't find HTR Tour tires. So I just looked over the entire HTR line, none of which really match the BFG's.

The almighty fuel system. Fuel slosh and starvation are prevelent in circuit racing. A baffled fuel cell is needed. STR fuel rails are cheaped and serve better function to the cause. Aeromotive FPR's pwn AEM crap any day of the week.

Forbidden or Pspec make complete shifter assemblies for the CB7 which cost 140.

CF trunks are not production. You must make a deposit to VIS to get one. Cost about 600 shipped.

Why the trunk lip spoiler if you need lightweight speakers? At any rate...EBAY.

Just my $.02.

Personally, I'd get an H22. Much easier to keep cool, than a F22 DSM setup and less things can go wrong. Elaborate on this race you are preparing for. You didn't mention whether is was a time trial or if you were racing with the company of others.

Remember, power doesn't win races on road courses. Balance does.

[92ex]

After having a good nights sleep, I decided to look over this list closely.

lol, I have yet to go to bed

[CB7Perfection]

I wish I had seen this post earlier because I have the urge to...well I guess it doesn't matter now, 92ex said all I needed to say. This whole plan needs to be rethought because dreams of 400hp drag/roadrace cars with wild cams and custom intake manifolds are great but with a 14b turbo and no engine management....well, I suppose the day dreams of a youthful mind must be crushed before anything truly great can come of them....oh, and just so you can't say this wasn't creative critisism...a good suspension is worth just as much as huge power. And i find that keeping a notebook by my side at all times is very helpful.

Peace,
-Kyle

never said i was trying to get 400hp those were just the only axles i could find. read carefully.

[CB7Perfection]

in a circuit type race you are going to heatsoak that weenie sized sidemount, and probably have problems due to the heated air, as well as the fact that you are gonna overheat most likely as well. you can get away without adequate cooling and intercooling when you make one pass and can cool down, but in a circuit type race you are gonna heat that shit up a LOT more.
also your choice of shocks or that style of racing is a pretty poor one, look at least into illuminas if not Koni Yellows.
Dont waste money on a high output alterantor unless this race car is gonna run 1500 watts of car stereo.
upgrade that turbo and manifold while you are at it. especially with the cam and higher flowing parts.

ty for the constructive help more so than the other. everything that is said will be taken into consideration. there are still a few more things to be listed

[CB7Perfection]

This guy took most of it out of my mind.

Again, 14B and circuit racing just don't mix. You should be looking for a ball bearing unit, preferably a T3 and up. Step your suspension up and get revalved Tein coilovers. SMIC's also have no home in a circuit race. Unless this race last for 2 laps, then you will be fine. High output alternators are used in race cars running EMS's like the Electromotive Tec3 that have 1 coil per cylinder. I highly doubt you need one for a 6AL.

Accords have traction issues so its best to neutralize their horrendous understeer. The ST swaybars are not a bad idea. How about some poly bushings? Much better than that soft comfy stock rubber crap. And if you are seriously circuit racing, find out what class you qualify for. I can tell you right now, you can't be building for SCCA. If you are, your opponents are NSX's, 300ZX's, Supras, Mustangs, and the rest of the horsepower warriors. In other words, your mods place you in GT1 where the competition is nice and steep. I'd research and rethink everything if I were in your shoes. Also, lets not forget to be full race you need: A racing helmet, The appropriate harness belt, cage or roll bar (which you addressed), and window net. Find out what circuit you are qualifying yourself for. Turboing that motor will send you into GT1, no questions asked.

P.S. The Gear-Speed Level 1 tranny will not do anything for traction. Got to the Level 2 which is equipped with an LSD. Otherwise, you are paying 1600 shipped just to shift faster. Get some real traction and go LSD.

P.S. Again: Find out if your class of racing allows slicks. BFG G-Force TA's etc. are excellent street tires. For competition, you need something much more aggressive. Just remember to change tires when you leave the track. AA traction and 100 treadwear cost too much cash to drive on everyday.

I could go on and on, but depends on how serious you are about this.

tire wise i was actually doing some research on Kumho Ecsta V700 Competition tires

[CB7Perfection]

After having a good nights sleep, I decided to look over this list closely. I have news for you, this is street/strip at best.

I have some news for you that you may find interesting.

Progress has deemed the OEM front swaybar to be suffice. Thus they only make the rear sway bar. Price 150 shipped. I strongly recommend Poly bushings. (Poly Graphite is self lubricating from what HondaFan81 tells me)

Summit Racing battery relocation kit 50 shipped.

A bigger turbo, but that has been said plenty of times in this thread. Ball bearing is great for circuit use.

Based on the price of your strut bars, that must be some megan pivot point crap. Step it up and get some solid bars. The elusive Neuspeed is not a bad choice, or go custom. Rear lower tie bar is to look pretty, as its known to have no function on a CB7.

If you are so weight conscious, get an Optima made for Civics. They are half the size of the usual battery. And only go for 110.

Powerslot rotors and Hawk HPS is the best budget brake upgrade for the CB7. Might want to add some SS braided lines to further increase the braking response.

Get an LSD. You need that much more than carbon synchros found in your Gearspeed tranny.

Consider a higher capacity and baffled oil pan.

The alternator is not really needed. I just wouldn't trust a stock one in a couple hour long race. 150 Amp alternators cost 229 on ebay.

Blockguard is weak. Use only if there is a displacement restriction. Even then, swap cranks and rods with the H22 if you bump your bore up.

Where are your safety upgrades?

Oil cooler is good. Your SMIC isn't. What about your radiator? How about larger fans?

Address chassis stiffness. You may want to get in on the traction bar group buy.

Your spring/shock setup needs serious reconsideration.

New Balljoints and Outer tie rods won't hurt any.

Why 2 different brands of tires? You are looking to either promote oversteer or understeer. I can't find HTR Tour tires. So I just looked over the entire HTR line, none of which really match the BFG's.

The almighty fuel system. Fuel slosh and starvation are prevelent in circuit racing. A baffled fuel cell is needed. STR fuel rails are cheaped and serve better function to the cause. Aeromotive FPR's pwn AEM crap any day of the week.

Forbidden or Pspec make complete shifter assemblies for the CB7 which cost 140.

CF trunks are not production. You must make a deposit to VIS to get one. Cost about 600 shipped.

Why the trunk lip spoiler if you need lightweight speakers? At any rate...EBAY.

Just my $.02.

Personally, I'd get an H22. Much easier to keep cool, than a F22 DSM setup and less things can go wrong. Elaborate on this race you are preparing for. You didn't mention whether is was a time trial or if you were racing with the company of others.

Remember, power doesn't win races on road courses. Balance does.

i see. 1st chekc out that size on that battery that i have listed. it is relatively small compared to the normal size.
Turbo wise i was looking at going to OBX with their Turbo manifold for T3/T4 unfortunatly their site isnt up. i have checked on ebay about 2 days ago and it seems that they sell off of there. so i may go with doing that. the question is for a reasonable amount of cash would ebay be my solution to gettig the T3/T4. or should i go for an actual manufactorer's web page.
Brakes he Powerslot was chosen i think i listed it. and i will check out the Hawk brand.
I think i will go and grab that Type II transmission for the LSD. did price comparison and it seems cheaper to go that way.
Aeromotive i will be checking out today.
I had thought pspec was no longer exsistant, but i see i just went to the wrong site...
Ill try calling VIS again tomorrow and see for sure pricing.
Speakers... i still have to have my music
And to be honest there are so many H22 CB7's out there i just like to keep my A6 going.
Thankyou very much for the ".02" (no sarcasim made) greatly appreciated.

[CB7Perfection]

o and a few more notes. as i did mention before im not trying to go for just all power for those who wants to throw out the biggest horsepower upgrade they can think of. and i have noticed that some needs to understand the phrase constructive criticism instead of instant "bashing." thankyou to those who has provided the constructive criticism and it will be taken to the fullest extent possible. and to those of just pure bashing...sad...