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h22 turbo hp/tq number stock block

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    h22 turbo hp/tq number stock block

    Just want to get a feel on how much hp/tq everyone is getting runing 5-10psi on stock h22a? what turbo trim/manifold type/and tuning software.

    my auto JDM P13 ECU is being tune with E_ultimate and would be nice to see how everyone setup/tune is running...
    90 Accord Coupe LX, Stock JDM H22A Engine 10.6:1 - Stock Automatic LSD MPA1 Trans, JDM P13 Auto ECU + JDM P19 TCU. Tune with Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
    < 317WHP/227WTQ@11psi> B/W S256 turbo, Daily Driving on 93 pump gas - since 2006. Driving Turbocharged CB7 Accord since 2002.

    #2
    Well i used to be turbo but thats in the past. 5-10 on a stock h22 motor will run but do to the frm material the piston ringlands are week I strongly suggest you built htat motor to make the best of it but have a beater motor to get you around so that you do. At 5psi i was makin 240whp to the wheels and 198tq. On a t3/t4 60trim 63a/r 2.5 exhaust no cat on a hondata.When i ran it with 12 psi i was making 389whp and 280wtq. But after awhile it blew up something was wrong with it. It was too much maintenance so i didnt care about it . You are still running an auto I strongly suggest before you even decide to turbo atleast swap it to a 5speed youll make the most of it. the auto tranny unless build will not be able to actually harness that power and last you for awhile.Soon imma cop me a evo.

    Comment


      #3
      The H22 is just as good as the F22 for boost; the only difference really is the compression. The FRM sleeves are good, and it's just as strong. I think the open deck design makes them run a little hotter, but if you get a good radiator and fans you should be fine. Like all H/F motors the weak point is the ringlands...with a good tune it should be fine though.

      If you don't tune it then you'll run into all kinds of problems, even worse than the F, primarily because of the higher compression. With the F you might just blow the ringlands; but with the H22, since it's higher compression, you'll get pre-ignition/detonation and consequently destroy the internals. But if the F was the same compression as the H it would have the same problems.

      Just find a competent tuner or learn how to tune it yourself and you should be fine. As far as numbers... 275whp @ 8psi? I dunno.


      Originally posted by lordoja
      im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

      Comment


        #4
        thanks,

        this setup is only for a few months till i save up more money for a mahle gold series piston+rings/eagle rod/better head gasket/ my goal is street drive high 12's with 350whp. since it for daily driving street use I'll keep it an auto and upgrade a high stall converter and new performance part shift kit if needed. will find out some dyno number next week. I went with the civic half side radiator/FAL fans and got a wrong size FMIC it way to big but it all good. all I need is to find a gauge pod that will work in the darn accord..(wideband uego/Boost gauage).
        90 Accord Coupe LX, Stock JDM H22A Engine 10.6:1 - Stock Automatic LSD MPA1 Trans, JDM P13 Auto ECU + JDM P19 TCU. Tune with Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
        < 317WHP/227WTQ@11psi> B/W S256 turbo, Daily Driving on 93 pump gas - since 2006. Driving Turbocharged CB7 Accord since 2002.

        Comment


          #5
          Id say run 8psi daily if you do boost the motor. You can run 10psi but you need a good tune and IMO its pushing the limits of the h22a a bit but it will still work. And if this is your first time tuning a motor i suggest you do a lotta research before messing with the h22a. Its pretty pricey to replace parts. The power your gonna be making is gonna be over 220 or so at the wheels.

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          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by blazen_accord
            thanks,

            this setup is only for a few months till i save up more money for a mahle gold series piston+rings/eagle rod/better head gasket/ my goal is street drive high 12's with 350whp. since it for daily driving street use I'll keep it an auto and upgrade a high stall converter and new performance part shift kit if needed. will find out some dyno number next week. I went with the civic half side radiator/FAL fans and got a wrong size FMIC it way to big but it all good. all I need is to find a gauge pod that will work in the darn accord..(wideband uego/Boost gauage).
            Nah man you need more radiator air, that's what killed sparkle's turbo H22...


            Originally posted by lordoja
            im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by gloryaccordy
              Nah man you need more radiator air, that's what killed sparkle's turbo H22...
              More radiator air? u mean bigger radiator ?? I had to swap out the full size radiator since the turbo was hitting it, so the 1/2 size civic racing radiator is all I can use, any suggestion??

              Originally posted by NAiL05
              Id say run 8psi daily if you do boost the motor. You can run 10psi but you need a good tune and IMO its pushing the limits of the h22a a bit but it will still work. And if this is your first time tuning a motor i suggest you do a lotta research before messing with the h22a. Its pretty pricey to replace parts. The power your gonna be making is gonna be over 220 or so at the wheels.
              the shop where i had the turbo install is doing the tuning with Greedy E-ultimate(newest version from E-manage). dyno tuning so far boost hold at 5psi before vtec kick in , and 8-9psi when vtec engage. Shop say so far no pre-ignition/detonation I cannot see the tuning myself so I will have to trust them. at 8-9psi on the dynojet it make 252whp and 280wtq with 11.8:1 A/f.
              so far it seem the number seem ok, it stsill in the dyno tune phase at the shop. I'm still not use to the loud throaty sound the dump tube make on the external waistegate (had internal waistegate before). can't wait to drive the car soon...
              Last edited by blazen_accord; 06-19-2006, 06:43 PM.
              90 Accord Coupe LX, Stock JDM H22A Engine 10.6:1 - Stock Automatic LSD MPA1 Trans, JDM P13 Auto ECU + JDM P19 TCU. Tune with Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
              < 317WHP/227WTQ@11psi> B/W S256 turbo, Daily Driving on 93 pump gas - since 2006. Driving Turbocharged CB7 Accord since 2002.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by blazen_accord
                More radiator air? u mean bigger radiator ?? I had to swap out the full size radiator since the turbo was hitting it, so the 1/2 size civic racing radiator is all I can use, any suggestion??


                the shop where i had the turbo install is doing the tuning with AEM E-ultimate(newest version from E-manage). dyno tuning so far boost hold at 5psi before vtec kick in , and 8-9psi when vtec engage. Shop say so far no pre-ignition/detonation I cannot see the tuning myself so I will have to trust them. at 8-9psi on the dynojet it make 252whp and 280wtq with 11.8:1 A/f.
                so far it seem the number seem ok, it stsill in the dyno tune phase at the shop. I'm still not use to the loud throaty sound the dump tube make on the external waistegate (had internal waistegate before). can't wait to drive the car soon...
                what glory meant to say was you need a bigger radiator with more surface area for the coolant int he radiator to be cooled then recirculated back into the system.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by h22sparkle
                  what glory meant to say was you need a bigger radiator with more surface area for the coolant int he radiator to be cooled then recirculated back into the system.
                  Yep...I dunno why I put air, in my head I said "area".


                  Originally posted by lordoja
                  im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                  Comment


                    #10
                    hmm any idea how I will be to do that? a 2nd smaller radiator somewhere???
                    90 Accord Coupe LX, Stock JDM H22A Engine 10.6:1 - Stock Automatic LSD MPA1 Trans, JDM P13 Auto ECU + JDM P19 TCU. Tune with Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
                    < 317WHP/227WTQ@11psi> B/W S256 turbo, Daily Driving on 93 pump gas - since 2006. Driving Turbocharged CB7 Accord since 2002.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by blazen_accord
                      hmm any idea how I will be to do that? a 2nd smaller radiator somewhere???
                      Oh no no no...a stock sized Fluidyne racing one should be fine. h22sparkle had a half-radiator cooling a motor with twice the power (heat) of a stock H22... you gotta keep it cool.


                      Originally posted by lordoja
                      im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by blazen_accord

                        this setup is only for a few months till i save up more money for a mahle gold series piston+rings/eagle rod/better head gasket/ my goal is street drive high 12's with 350whp. since it for daily driving street use I'll keep it an auto and upgrade a high stall converter and new performance part shift kit if needed. will find out some dyno number next week. I went with the civic half side radiator/FAL fans and got a wrong size FMIC it way to big but it all good. all I need is to find a gauge pod that will work in the darn accord..(wideband uego/Boost gauage).
                        I have the same 1/2 size civic radiator as H22sparkle I think, I have a FAL flat fan on it through, my turbo was hitting into the standard stock size radiator so putting a stock or normal size will not fit/work, guess i'm out of luck?? any more sugession??

                        here is the radiator that I have
                        OBX 92-95 96-00 Honda Civic Aluminum Radiator
                        Last edited by blazen_accord; 06-19-2006, 07:17 PM.
                        90 Accord Coupe LX, Stock JDM H22A Engine 10.6:1 - Stock Automatic LSD MPA1 Trans, JDM P13 Auto ECU + JDM P19 TCU. Tune with Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
                        < 317WHP/227WTQ@11psi> B/W S256 turbo, Daily Driving on 93 pump gas - since 2006. Driving Turbocharged CB7 Accord since 2002.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sell that one and get a fullsized aluminum radiator

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by h22sparkle
                            Sell that one and get a fullsized aluminum radiator
                            Yea and a better brand one too...OBX is cool for intakes and shit but nothing fundamental


                            Originally posted by lordoja
                            im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

                            Comment


                              #15
                              hmmm

                              Very nice info how long has it been boosted on stock internals with out failure
                              a person who looks at somthing and see it as waste is no person at all but he who see what it could be will suceed
                              out with the old and in with the new

                              Comment

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