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11 turbo questions 95 accord

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    11 turbo questions 95 accord

    okay so let me get this straight i've been reading up some. okay so the turbo has 2 wheel one on the cold side aka compressor side for the chargepipe and one for the hot side exhaust side..

    well if i'm correct the turbo has 1 shaft but 2 turbine wheel.. one a exhaust turbine wheel and a compressor wheel.. so when you 1st start the car up the 1st combustion that is made.. it goes thru the exhaust side.. thus spinning the exhaust turbine.. thus spinning the compressor wheel since its a shaft connected to both wheel.. than the turbo will begin to spool up... then the cold side of the turbo gets connected to a chargepipe.. the charge pipe than goes on one end of the IC.. ic cools it down for a few second than exit it thru another end of the IC with another chargepipe that takes place of the intake system that gets connected to the IM. #1. is this correct?


    okay # 2. i heard that the bov is usually a flange welded on the chargepipe and u just bolt the bov to it.. wel my problem is that most kit doesn't come with a flange welded on the chargepipe.. so what do i do now..


    okay#3. i know the bov is to relieve pressure when you switch gears so that it doesn't countine to build up pressure in the chargepiping from the turbo since your letting off the gas but what lets say if u didn't install a chargepiping.. wouldn't the air than escape back to the cold side of the turbine compressor.. spinning it backward.. thus spinning the exhaust turbine wheel and just exiting out the exhaust dumptube or manifold?

    okay #4 the wastegate has 2 flange one gets bolted to the turbo manifold.. the other end.. i heard goes to a dumptube.. i'm assuming this is so when you've say you've build up(lets say 10lbs of boost) the turbine wheel won't just automatically stop spinning because you reach the amount of boost you want so does the wastegate open up and instead of spinning the turbine wheel on the hotside faster to create more boost.. it slows down because the wastegate opens up as a secondary exhaust to let out some air.. but if what i said is correct than what if u hold the throttle constantly and it spool up 10lbs.. even though the wastegate opened up.. since the turbine wheel isn't going to stop spinning won't it just make 10lbs of boost plus a lil more since the turbine wheel is going at a lil rate.. thus risking blowing your motor.?



    #5. what does trim a/r .63 or .60.

    #6. okay i know that the turbo get connected to a manifold or rather a header that goes to the block.. than the wastegate than the downpipe right?????

    #7. okay i wanna boost my 95 honda accord ex.. for all these lil civics with gsr swaps and ls swap.. or even accord with h22, si. thats been talking shit i want to serve all of them this spring hopefully. but do you think a f22b1 thats vtec will be able to do 10lbs of turbo and will that get me in the 220whp or 240whp range?


    #8 for tuning i've been thinkin about getting a obd1 p28 civic ecu.. only problem is i can get one for free at a junkyard. is it cheap to get it sent in for chipping.. i mean i know i can find one chipped online for around 200.00 but will it cost that much if i can get one free and just get a chip put in?

    #9 if i buy a used p28 already chipped i'm assuming its going ot already come with the owner basemap.. will they reprogram it or atleast delete it and use a new basemap for me can they do this?

    #10 detonation is when the cylinder goes to fire.. the air gets so hot that the fuel ignites it before the spark does? casuing misfires? if misfire happens how does that make you throw a rod.. i could understand you'll get carbon build up or atleast you would be running rich right? because of the unbunrt fuel or no???

    #11. i plan on going with 450 cc injectors... colder spark plugs chipped p28 a nice basemap setup


    I WISH YOU CAN ANSWER ALL 11 OF THESES QUESTION THOUGHTFULLY AND ALSO IF YOU GOT SUGGESTIONS or comments please free feel to post it.. PLEASE KEEP THIS THREAD FLAME FREE.. ALTHOUGH THIS IS MY 2ND DAY READING UP ABOUT TURBO...
    http://www.get-gifts-for-free.com/?ref_id=4810





    1992 Honda Accord 4dr 5spd EX- R.I.P 8/10/05

    #2
    It fucking hurts when you see threads like this knowing damn well you took time to make something to help educate the newcomers. All questions are answered: READ THIS

    Comment


      #3
      all i can say is wow...need to do some more reading bud
      My baby laying down some power...

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kd_Q8HSIyqA

      Comment


        #4
        too much at once man..take it a little bit at a time.

        read for 6 months, then come back with questions.

        Owner of https://theclunkerjunker.com

        Comment


          #5
          wow for some reason you caught me in a really good mood. i'm not going to be an ass likethe others Especially him ^^^ instead i'm going try to help you out...

          they are right htough you definitly do need to look up more but its obvious that you at least want to know more and you did try...I would recommend buying a book all about turboes. it will be even more helpful than the link killercam gave you.

          #1 is pretty much correct its just a very basic way of explaining it. with research you'll see that its a little bit more complexed.

          2. if you don't get a kit with it welded on you may have to just drill a hole and then weld it yourself. Jb weld will even work for a little while.

          3. what i beleive your describing is compressor surge. pretty much the air that doesn't escape through the BOV will go back through the compressor making the fins spin the opposite way. The air will exit the same way it came in. this isn't good forthe turbo because it will slowly wear away at the fins. The compressor side and turbine aren't connected other than by the shaft so as far as i know the turbine side won't really be affected. What ever exhaust is there will just make its way by the fins and out.

          4. Wow i must be getting really tired. I can't comprehend what your asking.

          5. i don't know

          6. All good except you forgot the 02 housing. it comes before the down pipe.

          7. 10 psi won't blow your motor but poor heat management and tuning will. if everything is tuned and running right you could reach those numbers

          8. Tuning and a chipped ECU are two tottally different things. for your car to run you have to have the chipped ECU to have it run at top performance and make it less likely to blow up you have to have it tuned.

          you can't order the chip and just put it in. it has to be programmed. I have the software and the base maps to chip the ECU just PM me. Having you own ECU and then sending it out to be programmed will be alot cheaper.

          Just so you know you can also get a P06 and have it converted to VTEC.

          9. You would have to ask the person your buying it off of. If he has the software and the basemap than he can do it for you. if not you'll have to send it out to be reprogrammed. Like i said i can take care of that for you.

          10. Lack of oil and really high RPM's are what generally make you throw a rod...

          Detonation will make you brake ring lands.

          11. not sure what your asking but 450 injectors are correct. and although your getting a good base map your really going to want to get it tuned. It will significantly increase your chances of not blowing up your engine.

          Hope this helps. good luck with it all and let me know if you need any help with the ECU
          "Auto racing, bull fighting and mountain climbing are the only real sports....all others are games."
          - Ernest Hemingway

          Comment


            #6
            way to go calling r33 an ass. I'm pretty sure he has helped innumerable members out. just because he's saving this guy from getting flamed for every thread he makes doesn't mean he's an ass. this guy needs to do a lot more reading. Every question has been answered in this site, you just gotta find it. theres even the boost bible and wikipedia
            Shift_BOOST

            BOOM!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 92ex
              way to go calling r33 an ass. I'm pretty sure he has helped innumerable members out. just because he's saving this guy from getting flamed for every thread he makes doesn't mean he's an ass. this guy needs to do a lot more reading. Every question has been answered in this site, you just gotta find it. theres even the boost bible and wikipedia
              lol...shhhhh (thats the wifey ^^^)

              but thanks for the props more people should be like you, going from noob to expert without spoon feeding

              Owner of https://theclunkerjunker.com

              Comment


                #8
                lol yeah, i remember bugging the hell outta you when i first was going turbo. then i started finding things out the hard way, yet more informative
                Shift_BOOST

                BOOM!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Rusty
                  wow for some reason you caught me in a really good mood. i'm not going to be an ass likethe others Especially him ^^^ instead i'm going try to help you out...
                  Don't call anyone an ass unless your shit don't stink. In other words, be on point. You are like wrong on half of this.

                  2. if you don't get a kit with it welded on you may have to just drill a hole and then weld it yourself. Jb weld will even work for a little while.
                  Yes, I have seen this on HMT. Horrible advice. If you don't give a fuck then fine. Otherwise, weld it up the first time.

                  PS, try ghettowelding a Tial BOV flange. That may last all of a day.

                  3. what i beleive your describing is compressor surge. pretty much the air that doesn't escape through the BOV will go back through the compressor making the fins spin the opposite way. The air will exit the same way it came in. this isn't good forthe turbo because it will slowly wear away at the fins. The compressor side and turbine aren't connected other than by the shaft so as far as i know the turbine side won't really be affected. What ever exhaust is there will just make its way by the fins and out.
                  Partially correct. I am not sure what you meant about the hot side. Compressor surge also can help introduce a world of shaft play. That does affect the turbine side too.

                  6. All good except you forgot the 02 housing. it comes before the down pipe.
                  Only DSM turbo setups have O2 housings (some oddball ford and chrysler turbos do too). Most of the time the O2 sensor bung is welded directly into the downpipe.

                  7. 10 psi won't blow your motor but poor heat management and tuning will. if everything is tuned and running right you could reach those numbers
                  Number one culprit for blown turbo'd engines both built and stock= advanced timing. You aluded to it, but I want to clarify that.

                  8. Tuning and a chipped ECU are two tottally different things. for your car to run you have to have the chipped ECU to have it run at top performance and make it less likely to blow up you have to have it tuned.

                  you can't order the chip and just put it in. it has to be programmed. I have the software and the base maps to chip the ECU just PM me. Having you own ECU and then sending it out to be programmed will be alot cheaper.

                  Just so you know you can also get a P06 and have it converted to VTEC.
                  More to the OP, there is so much more involved in tuning its not even funny. You will need to do some research to best understand that. PS, premade basemaps suck. I got mine from hondata. My wideband can't even tell me how lean my idle was because it was out of range...(worse than 16:1)

                  10. Lack of oil and really high RPM's are what generally make you throw a rod...

                  Detonation will make you brake ring lands.
                  Rod throwing...it should be an olympic sport. Ok back to topic. The factory rev limit is there for a reason, ignore it at your own risk. Detonation doesn't break ringlands. It straight up and down fucks up the engine. Detonations is when a cylinder preignites. So think about it as twisting a towel. Thats whats happening to your crankshaft, rods, bearings etc, etc. Excessive boost on the stock engine makes you break rings. Excessive richness/advanced timing melts ringlands and pistons.

                  In closing to the OP, you have way too many questions to validate you claim of researching. You don't learn this shit overnight. Hell, there are things that I am still learning to this day. As technology advances, things change. Do yourself a favor and inform yourself. The info is out there.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i was born with all the knowledge.

                    you guys are noobs.

                    CrzyTuning now offering port services

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Can you even drive a manual transmission car yet?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by AccordWarrior
                        Can you even drive a manual transmission car yet?

                        no i suck so bad i chirp 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th gear.. even reverse...

                        what kinda question is that mike?
                        http://www.get-gifts-for-free.com/?ref_id=4810





                        1992 Honda Accord 4dr 5spd EX- R.I.P 8/10/05

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