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Natually Aspirated Basics

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    Natually Aspirated Basics

    NATURALLY ASPIRATED STREET CAR BASICS
    i've used these formulas to determine my most recent builds and it's allowed me to make the most power with the least amount of work
    on my stock block and head F22A1.



    THROTTLE BODY & INTAKE MANIFOLD BASICS

    side notes: intake runner on f22a head is 3.6" so this needs to be figured into intake manifold runner length. ie, if you need a 13" runner length for the power band you want you need to subtract 3.6" from it. so 13.0"-3.6"=9.4" intake manifold runner length.

    I'm not sure what it is for the different H and F series engines but as soon as i can gather that information i will gladly post it.

    VE= volumetric efficiency (95 for most street Hondas)
    DL= displacement in liters
    DC3= displacement in cc
    PTR= peak torque rpm
    SQRT= square root
    ^(2)= squared= the number times itself

    (intake plenum size)= .6-1.3 x (DL) on n/a and 1.5-2 x (DL) on turbo. larger plenums offer more hp and torque potential but smaller offers better response. its your preference.

    (ideal total runner length)= (84,000)/(PTR)

    (ideal runner diameter in mm)= ((SQRT [((PTR)x(DL)x(VE))/3330])x.1) x (25.4)

    (ideal throttle body size in mm)= (SQRT [ ((154.2)x(# of cyl)x(stroke in inches)x(redline rpm)x((bore in inches)^(2))/67,547])x1.15

    (ideal intake tube diameter)= 1.15 x throttle body size


    examples of my setup:
    peak torque: 4900rpm
    redline: 7500rpm
    bore: 85mm or 3.346"
    stroke: 95mm or 3.74"
    #cyl: 4
    displacement in cc: 2156 or 2.2 liters (technically 2.156L)
    aspiration: natural

    my ideal plenum is .6 x 2.156L = 1.3L plenum (skunk2 pro h22 I.M.)

    my ideal runner length is 84,000/4,900 = 17.14" then 17.14-3.6(f22 intake port length) = 13.5 in (skunk2 pro h22 I.M.)

    my ideal runner diameter is ((SQRT[((4900)x(2.2)x(95))/3330])x .1)x(25.4) = 44.5mm (skunk2 pro h22 I.M.=50mm but is port-able up to 54mm)

    my ideal throttle body is (SQRT [ ((154.2)x(4)x(3.74)x(7500)x((3.346)^(2))/67,547])x1.15 = 61.58mm (oem S2000 throttlebody)

    my ideal intake tube diameter is 1.15 x 62mm = 71.3mm or 2.8"(AEM V2 prelude intake)




    CAMSHAFT BASICS

    these two charts show the relationship of duration to power band and to common lobe separation and lobe centerline of the intake profile

    this is a chart to show recommended static compression ratio for intake duration and the operating range.

    under normal camshaft timing conditions, lower compression (by more than half a point) will result in increase in rpm power band. ie if you use a 228 intake duration cam on a 9.7:1 engine
    instead of the recommended 10.25:1 the rpm range will be higher and narrower. for example my camshafts operating range is 3000-6500rpm with my 228 degrees intake duration and 9.7:1 compression.
    the following is taken directly from this website

    http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Ca...rformance.html

    Cam Basics
    Cam Performance
    Cam Design
    Valve Springs
    Valve Train Dynamics Tips and Short Takes
    Design History
    Flathead Cams
    Triumph Cams
    References

    Cams and Engine Performance

    Cam Basics describes the basic terminology used in the specifications of a camshaft. Here we discuss how these camshaft specifications influence the performance of an engine. This discussion is divided into the following parts:

    Intake Duration
    Other Timing Events - advance, duration and lobe separation
    Cam Lift
    Opening and Closing Rate
    Summary

    Intake Duration

    Let's first talk about the intake valve. The intake is much more critical than the exhaust because intake flow is driven only by atmospheric pressure (unless you are supercharging). Exhaust flow is driven by the much higher pressures created by combustion.

    You might think that the intake valve should open instantaneously at TDC and close instantaneously at BDC, i.e. at the beginning and end of the intake stroke. This would give a duration of 180 degrees. This would be a good choice of timing for a very slow turning engine. However, there are a couple of problems for real engines. First, the valves can not be opened and closed instantaneously, so it is better to start opening the intake valve before TDC and close is a bit after BDC. Second, air is compressible and has inertia, so for faster engine speeds more air and fuel will be captured if the intake valve is closed later. The higher the engine speed the later it should be closed.

    Tradeoffs We can immediately see that the cam must be designed for a certain engine speed. Consequently, the camshaft design invariably offers tradeoffs between high RPM performance and low RPM performance. Engineers were familiar with these tradeoffs and the performance implications as far back as 1910. The graph at left (click to enlarge) is for a flathead Ford V8 from a classic book by Roger Huntington. The approximate intake duration for the cams in the graph are: (1) stock - 230 degrees seat-to-seat, 200 at 0.050, (2) 3/4 race - 260 seat-to-seat and 220 at 0.050, and (3) full race 270 seat-to-seat and 230 at 0.050. Huntington did not recommend the full race cam for street use because it produces so little power at low RPM, causing poor drivability. (See What's a 3/4 Race Cam?)

    In order to gain power with a high performance (longer duration) camshaft, you must have an engine which is capable of reaching the higher RPM levels. For example, no matter how much duration you have, a stock Model T motor is never going to turn 5,000 RPMs. To achieve higher engine speeds you must have a head and manifold that will flow freely and a high enough compression ratio.

    As an example, a stock Model T has a 4:1 compression ratio, poor air flow and a poor head design. Several years ago, we discovered that all of the reground camshafts available were too big, i.e. too much duration. This is called overcamming an engine - a very common mistake when building an engine (see Monroe). One dyno test showed that a stock cam (218 degrees duration) produced the same peak horsepower and up to 15% more midrange power. The midrange power is extremely important for driveability with only two forward gears.

    Power RangeThere are many engine characteristics which will effect your camshaft selection, so there is no single best camshaft. The graph at the right was created after review of many data sources in combination with the data given by Hammill. It shows the typical RPM range as a function of the intake valve duration at 0.050 lift. See "What's Wrong with 0.050 Duration?" for a discussion of duration measurement standards.

    The camshaft that produces the highest peak horsepower is usually not the best camshaft. For example, the graph shows that a cam with 255 degrees duration comes on at about 4,000 RPM. For a street application, you might have to rev considerably and slip the clutch to get going. True, a long duration race cam produces more power, but drivability suffers. A high performance cam invariably produces its power in a narrower RPM range (the two curves in the graph are converging). This means it will require more gear shifting to remain in the power band when climbing hills or when accelerating out of turns on a road course. Normally, the best camshaft will produce peak horsepower near the upper-middle of the planned RPM operating range.

    The first step when selecting a camshaft is to make an honest appraisal of your engine (compression ratio, head flow, etc.) and your driving plans (street, road race, etc.).
    Other Timing Events

    So far, we've talked only about the intake valve duration. The overall cam timing can be characterized using four opening and closing parameters. We will assume these events are measured at 0.050 lift or some other uniform standard. We will discuss the importance of seat-to-seat timing below under Opening Rate. The events are listed here in their usual order of importance (see Monroe):

    Intake closing angle
    Intake opening angle
    Exhaust opening angle
    Exhaust closing angle

    The first two events determine the intake duration (closing minus opening), which is built into the camshaft. The exhaust opening and closing are the next most important parameters. The exhaust lobe is fixed relative to the intake lobe by the lobe separation angle. All of the events can be shifted by advancing or retarding the cam during installation.

    Rather than the four timing events above, we prefer to use the following equivalent set of parameters:

    Cam advance
    Intake valve duration
    Exhaust valve duration
    Lobe separation angle

    Conversion between these above two sets of specifications is easily accomplished using the Cam Calculator on the Download page.

    The effect these parameters have on performance is easily understood if you remember that intake closing is the most important event. Because of gas compressibility and inertia, closing the intake valve sooner produces more low end power and torque and less power at high RPM. Closing the intake valve later produces more high end power at the expense of the low end. This explains why an increase in the intake valve duration moves the power band to higher engine speeds. When the cam is advanced, the intake valve closes sooner, so you get more power at the low end. Reducing the lobe separation angle also causes the intake valve to close sooner, so you again get more low end power.

    Lobe Separation & AdvanceThere are other more subtle characteristics which are easily understood if you remember the relative importance of the timing events. The graph at right was constructed after review of many sources, e.g. Hammill and Dykes (see References and History). As the intake valve duration is increased, the cam should normally be advanced and the lobe separation should be reduced slightly. Making small changes in the advance and lobe separation keeps the most important events (intake closing and exhaust opening) near their optimum values. There will be larger changes in the less important intake opening and exhaust closing. This graph gives general trends, specific engine characteristics (.e.g flow characteristics and Rod Length) will influence the best choice of the timing events.

    For design purposes, we prefer to use the second set of four timing parameters, because the first one (advance) can be set based on dyno performance after the cam is installed. For some engines you can purchase a vernier sprocket or gear to make setting the advance easy. In other cases, you may have to redrill dowel pin holes, keyways, or use offset keys or dowel pins. If you are creative, there is always a way to adjust the advance without grinding another camshaft. The intake and exhaust duration and lobe separation are ground into the cam and must be set based on performance experience

    When designing a camshaft, the most important decision is the selection of intake duration. Generally, there will be some experience with other cams for similar engines. In the worst case, a value can be selected from the graph above using the desired RPM range. Generally, the exhaust duration is no more than ten degrees greater than the intake duration. The lobe separation angle is of lesser importance and as a worst case it can be estimated from the graph above. The more information that is available the better the estimates for these parameters. The graphs give "typical" values which can be used as a starting point in the absence of other data.
    Cam Lift

    Comparison of LiftThe intake and exhaust lift are the most important parameters after the four main timing events. For this discussion, we assume that the four timing parameters have been specified at 0.050 lobe lift, so the importance of lift is considered in this context.

    There is no downside to lift. If there are no clearance issued involved, more lift is always better. It is easy to get more lift if you increase the duration, but here we assume that the duration has already been specified. Duration is more important than lift, so you never want to sacrifice duration for lift.

    Consider the two lift curves at the right. Both have a duration of about 250 degrees at 0.050. In fact, the curves are identical below 0.050 lift. The difference in the maximum lift is only about 0.020, about 0.380 versus 0.360. If we assume these cams will be installed with a rocker ratio of 1.5, both will produce a valve lift in excess of 0.500. Some would argue that little additional flow occurs when you increase the valve opening from say 0.500 to 0.530, so why would you want a cam with this much lift? It is true that flow tends to level out at high lifts; however, the higher lift cam reaches intermediate lifts quicker, so the valve is open longer at these intermediate lifts. For the two cams shown, the duration at a lift of 0.250 differs by 11 crank degrees. Besides, once you've got the valve train moving, slowing it down abruptly to reduce the lift will trigger vibrations and require stiffer valve springs to counteract the deceleration. Constraining the lift makes sense only when there are clearance issues. In most cases the additional flow throughout the heart of the lift event is significant and it translates directly into improved performance.
    Opening and Closing Rate

    The ideal cam would be one that opens and closes the valve instantaneously at the optimum crank angles. This ideal cam would give a square lift curve. Instantaneous opening is not possible because it would require infinite acceleration of all the mass in the valve train and would lead to infinite forces on the valve train components. However, we should keep the ideal lift curve in mind and try to open the valve as quickly as possible. Harvey Crane's website has a page which discusses this issue. He uses the term intensity to measure the quickness of the cam opening and closing. Substituting the term "quicker opening" for "smaller intensity", Crane states, "In practical terms if two cams with similar lobe designs have the same duration at 0.050 lift, maximum torque and horsepower will be almost identical. However, the cam with the quicker opening will have a smoother idle, better off-idle response, superior low speed drivability and a broader power curve." Bakoni and Hollingsworth and Hodges also describe the advantages of quick opening cams.

    Quick vs Slow Opening CamConsider the two lift curves in the graph at the right. The valve lash of 0.010 has been subtracted from these curves so that net cam lift is plotted. These curves are an exaggeration of the problem we frequently encounter with "performance" camshafts. Both cams have a duration of 250 at 0.050 (0.040 net) and a gross lift of 0.320. For this discussion, we want to concentrate on the difference between the curves for lifts below 0.040, i.e. the opening and closing. The differences may not look significant, but the seat-to-seat duration is 299 degrees for the quick opening cam (red curve) and 333 for the slow opening cam (blue curve). The slow opening cam has 34 degrees more overlap. For a 110 lobe separation, that translates into a whopping 113 degrees of overlap. The quick opening cam will have all the benefits cited by Crane. Actually, it's impossible to make the two lift curves the same above 0.040. The quick opening cam has 9 degrees more duration at 0.150. This increased breadth of the red curve above 0.040 will also contribute to better performance. The cam with the red lift curve will produce a broader power band by improving the low end performance of the engine, with a slight increase in the high end performance. As stated above, a high performance cam will invariably sacrifice low end power and torque for high RPM power. The sacrifice of low end performance is reduced using a quick opening cam.

    Note: Crane defines minor intensity to be the difference in duration between 0.050 lift and 0.010 lift. The minor intensity of these examples are (299 - 250) = 49 degrees for the quick opening cam and (333 - 250) = 83 degrees for the slow opening cam.
    Summary

    The most important cam design parameters are the four timing events or equivalently the advance, intake and exhaust duration and lobe separation angle.
    Once the four timing parameters are established, the cam should be designed for maximum lift
    A quick opening and closing cam will provide better low end performance than one that is slower opening.

    The trick is to know what values to use for the timing parameters. Although we know general ranges of values and trends, the timing numbers must be established from performance experience. Next, we must know how to design the cam for maximum lift and quick opening. We discuss these aspects of a design on the Cam Design page. For some additonal discussion of cam quality, look at What's Wrong with Area Under the Lift Curve?


    Copyright 2007 Tilden Technologies LLC. All Rights Reserved.


    HEADER SIZING & EXHAUST PIPING SIZE

    Look at your camshaft specs and find out how long the exhaust valve opens in degrees at 0.50-inch lift. Subtract this number from 360, then multiply that by 850 (we'll call this Figure A). If your engine sees mainly street duty honda, subtract 3rpm from the rpm at which peak torque occurs or subtract 3rpm at which peak power occurs. We'll call this Figure B. Then, divide Figure A by Figure B and you have the pipe length in inches. The formula looks like this:
    ((850 x (360-EVO))/(rpm-3)
    "EVO" = "Exhaust Valve Open duration at 0.050-inch lift."

    Diameter Calculation

    Multiply your Volumetric Efficiency-adjust single cylinder displacement by 16.38; we'll call this Figure C. Add 3 to your calculated length from Step 4, then multiply that by 25; this is Figure D. Divide Figure C by Figure D and you'll have the header tubes' inside diameter in inches.

    Example One - jdm92_accorn's F22A1

    For this example, we'll use a F22A (131.5 cubic inches), naturally aspirated street 4cyl. The exhaust duration at 0.50 checks in at 222 degrees, and peak torque occurs at 4,900 rpm. Being a street engine, it has a volumetric efficiency of 0.90. We'll begin the length calculation buy subtracting 222 from 360 (equals 138), then multiply that by 850 (equals 117,300). Then we'll subtract 3 from our peak torque (equals 4,897). Dividing 117,300 by 4,897 and we end up with a final primary tube length of 23.95 inches.

    Next, we'll adjust displacement by dividing 131.5 by 4 (equals 32.875 cubic inches per cylinder) and multiplying that by our 0.90 VE (equals 29.587). Multiply 29.587 by 16.38 (equals 484.635, Figure C). Now, well add 3 to our calculated header length (equals 35.875) and multiply that by 25 (equals 896.875) to derive Figure D. Finally, we'll divide Figure C (484.635) by Figure D (896.875) to arrive at an inside tubing diameter of 0.540 inch, then add 1inch to a total inside primary pipe diameter of 1.54" or roughly 39mm.

    So, for our mild-cam, torque-heavy street F22A we'll need headers with primaries that measure about 29.587 inches long and 1.54" on the inside of the tube. Bear in mind that most header companies market their pipes by outside diameter; after accounting for the thickness of the metal tube, this actually comes out to about 1.69" outside diameter for most stainless headers. and remember most honda headers are oval ports. add the inside width to the inside height then divide by 2 to get the inside diameter.

    example a+b=d


    exhaust piping diameter

    a good rule of thumb with 4cyl street Hondas that I've noticed is that you can use the intake tube formula for the exhaust piping as-well.

    MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

    #2
    Very nice writeup

    I recognize a lot of those formulas.

    Nice to see someone take the time to write it all down and make it into one thread. Most of mine are in books. I have a word document with a few of the common ones put together but I have no explanations to go along with them. They are all just numbers and abbreviations....lol
    MR Thread
    GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

    by Chappy, on Flickr

    Comment


      #3
      I thought the examples would help a lot of people who want to learn more about the technical side of things. Its too bad you and I live so far apart. I have a feeling we would have fun picking each other's brains and bouncing ideas off each other.

      MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

      Comment


        #4
        I know full well I will be trying to break things down even further! I like what you put up here (I also think sticky!!!). One could tune their car exactly the way they want it with those formulas. Good write up!!!
        The CB7 Collector.
        Team Kindred Impulse Member #3
        92 LX Coupe F22A1
        2013 Toyota Corolla S
        92 EX Sedan F22A1
        Originally posted by deevergote
        Do you really need to make a thread asking if having your car like this /---\ will cause uneven tire wear? Try walking like that for a few weeks and see if your shoes wear funny! (hint: they will.)

        Comment


          #5
          Sticky this, please..


          Comment


            #6
            Now, I have a long reading to do.
            A&P-IA

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Vex View Post
              Sticky this, please..
              Done.
              '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

              Originally posted by deevergote
              If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

              Comment


                #8
                I need to finish my chart. I'm making an extended chart for the intake duration vs operating range.

                MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

                Comment


                  #9
                  Great info, but I don't know that I'd call most of it "basic." The data looks more useful to the builder who has the ability to make custom intake and exhaust parts, or have custom-spec hard parts made for them. You'd have to look at mountains of different aftermarket options (of which there aren't many and they're all pretty similar when it comes to the F22A) and be able to compare all this specific info between them - a lot of which isn't typically given when buying these parts.

                  I came in here expecting to see something more like this:
                  http://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude-...oing-n-180883/
                  Last edited by CyborgGT; 04-08-2015, 02:30 AM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    - removed
                    Last edited by CB7Denmark; 09-08-2016, 03:22 PM. Reason: noob
                    Check out my MRT, i'd love some constructive criticism ---> http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=204165 PICTURES FROM 2014! DOES NOT REPRESENT CURRENT STATE

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks for al the useful knowledge that you have provided on this thread. I need to go over it a couple of times as my brain hurts from trying to read all of this on my phone. Extreme helpful as I am currently building an NA F since.


                      Purchased From: busak87, GunRunner, Bruce Banner, Itstatcb7kid707, tJoods, DannyD


                      The Caravan 2015
                      MRT:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=180919

                      Comment

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