I did this ecu setup with a pr4 that I chipped. A burn1 chip burner. Uberdata (newest stable with nitrous output) I still need a wbo2. I'm tired of borrowing 1. I sold my wideband like a year ago and regret it but everyone is having a deal with the lc-1 and gauge for cheap! I'm picking that up!
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
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Also I'm going another step colder colder on the plugs to a heat range 8... reason being is not because of detonation which I'm not showing classic "signs" of but a buffer zone and my car runs fine and doesn't run bad on the 7s or with timing pulled which is weird considering it seems to be running harder everytime I change something do to ignition... plans have changed since I am not going to retain the stock exhaust anymore. I'm going to a 2 1/2 inch setup that is crush bent without a cat and will have a long resonator and a muffler. Probably something oem looking. Only "can" that will go on is something close to a greddy evo 2 style. Nothing ricy...
Superior Tuning Solutions
Dedspool MFG
1995 Civic Coupe : A/M F swap
LOCK.IT.UP
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8's might be a bit much. You'll probably foul them out at idle.
Are you using BKR's? Try some NGK 4091(R5671A-7). 7 heat range, but they're a lot shorter and are non projected. They have worked wonders for me and I've seen butt dyno gains by switching fromt he BKR 7's. Also a much smoother idle. Only downfall is that it sorta fucks with your radio reception. Mines not that bad and I have a shitty antenna.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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thats a good idea... i only run those plugs for the nitrous just because i guess i like "setting" my car up for the races lol... but the 6s are in it for daily... so i think xenocron sells them. ill pick up some next time i do my annual chip ordering.. whats your setup now joser?
Superior Tuning Solutions
Dedspool MFG
1995 Civic Coupe : A/M F swap
LOCK.IT.UP
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i forgot to say ya to the bkr question. they are BKR7E-11 @ .030 gap
no way. they are that cheap... those are the race plugs right? or are the race plugs different. the race one come in half heat ranges too like 7.5 and such... those look good and im picking up a set of the ones you mention from bap auto out here... thanks. and the cars looking good...
i really want to boost the car but there are 2 things holding me back. possibly 3...
nitrous is nice because the car n/a is perfect for daily use. i dont HAVE to use the nitrous.. i like a n/a power curve moreso than boost and cost... i just dont want to boost when everyone is doing it... all my other cars have seen boost and on this accord i feel like i may be better off building to my original plans and staying away from boost... but noone said anything about a bigger shot.. 120 here i come!
btw. do you remember my old accord? the all motor f22a4 with bottle... i saw it driving down the road the other day. it still had my sticker on the rear window but it was stock lol.. sweet hah...
uberdata map for the stock f22a4. anyone? i know joser you probably do. is it in the bin depository?
Superior Tuning Solutions
Dedspool MFG
1995 Civic Coupe : A/M F swap
LOCK.IT.UP
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boost why?! forget that...
THEN: 1993 Accord 10th Ann. Ed.---------------------- NOW: 1996 Accord EX
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Originally posted by d112crzyAnd it can only get better. That's the best part.
All I gotta really say is:
People of cb7tuner, this AUTO is NOT a joke. It has impressed ME, the hater of auto's.
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Originally posted by SleeperSEDAN View PostI have decided people that I will not be boosting! Lol...
Having nitrous is more fun! Automatic nitrous is even better!
now i have my 5spd with a6 IM swap, SRI, p12, and full exhaust. i want spray so bad....
with a 55 shot, what do you think i would need? i know the step one colder plugs. but what else?
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Originally posted by SleeperSEDAN View Posti forgot to say ya to the bkr question. they are BKR7E-11 @ .030 gap
no way. they are that cheap... those are the race plugs right? or are the race plugs different. the race one come in half heat ranges too like 7.5 and such... those look good and im picking up a set of the ones you mention from bap auto out here... thanks. and the cars looking good...
i really want to boost the car but there are 2 things holding me back. possibly 3...
nitrous is nice because the car n/a is perfect for daily use. i dont HAVE to use the nitrous.. i like a n/a power curve moreso than boost and cost... i just dont want to boost when everyone is doing it... all my other cars have seen boost and on this accord i feel like i may be better off building to my original plans and staying away from boost... but noone said anything about a bigger shot.. 120 here i come!
btw. do you remember my old accord? the all motor f22a4 with bottle... i saw it driving down the road the other day. it still had my sticker on the rear window but it was stock lol.. sweet hah...
uberdata map for the stock f22a4. anyone? i know joser you probably do. is it in the bin depository?
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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For a 55 shot 1 step colder plugs and 91 oct in the tank will suffice. Obviously get a wet kit or a proper dry kti (a dry kit is not just a bottle. Main line. Sylenoid. Jet nozzle and short line... a proper dry kit has a fuel "t" that ups fuel pressure for the nitrous... you could pull a degree of static timing to sustain a little more safety control
Superior Tuning Solutions
Dedspool MFG
1995 Civic Coupe : A/M F swap
LOCK.IT.UP
Comment
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Originally posted by SleeperSEDAN View PostFor a 55 shot 1 step colder plugs and 91 oct in the tank will suffice. Obviously get a wet kit or a proper dry kti (a dry kit is not just a bottle. Main line. Sylenoid. Jet nozzle and short line... a proper dry kit has a fuel "t" that ups fuel pressure for the nitrous... you could pull a degree of static timing to sustain a little more safety control
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