Dry Shot VS. Wet Shot

[CB7 Sleeper]

What are the pros and cons of a dry shot and a wet shot.

Is there a reliability issue between the two, or is it all based on power output?

[SuperTuner12010]

The problem with dry is the more nos you inject the leaner the enigne will run. Thats were wet comes into play, you inject extra fuel with the nos to keep it from leaning out.

Someone please correct me if im wrong, I dont want to give bad information.

However the problem with wet is fuel weighs more than nos, and as it is injected it seams to favor the closest too cylinders, and not as much fuel gets to cylinder 2 and espescially number 1. Thus sime cylinders will run leaner than the others, and have added waer on only the further away cylinders.

It comes down to how often you will be using it, and how much you want. I myself have always been a fan of direct port though.

[D1sclaimer]

Wet kit:

-Pros: opportunity to run a larger shot on stock injectors.
-Cons: opportunity for fuel to puddle up in the intake and ignite causing an intake backfire/explosion. Intakes are designed to flow air, not fuel. Wet kits are more dependent on nitrous pressure for proper atomization with fuel for a harder hit than dry kits.

Dry kit:
-Pro: ability to safely run nitrous without as likely a chance of intake backfire.
-Con: harder to tune for AFR depending on how you add fuel. You can either boost fuel pressure, tune your injector duty cycle, or spray at a MAF(which we don't have). Running too much fuel pressure and you can lock up an injector causing massive damage. If you want to run a higher shot, you need to upgrade your injectors. You need to run a fuel pressure safety switch if you're boosting fuel pressure so if you spray and extra fuel isn't added, the system wont activate saving your motor.


I prefer dry kits. You will always find people saying they like wet kits better because you add fuel at the intake. I think through the injectors is the proper way to add fuel. When someone goes turbo, they don't throw a fuel solenoid with a fan nozzle in their intake tract to add fuel. They buy bigger injectors instead of a bandaid like wet kits do. We don't have carbs anymore so our intakes aren't designed to flow fuel which can be very destructive if ignited in the intake.

[D1sclaimer]

The problem with dry is the more nos you inject the leaner the enigne will run. Thats were wet comes into play, you inject extra fuel with the nos to keep it from leaning out.

You have to tune extra for it. Thats another thing that people don't like about dry kits. It just takes a tad bit more adjustment, but not much. For me, I boost fuel pressure when I spray to add more fuel, and if there isn't adequate pressure, it won't spray because of my fuel pressure safety switch which activates at a certain fuel PSI. From there, I fine tune it through my engine management.

However the problem with wet is fuel weighs more than nos, and as it is injected it seams to favor the closest too cylinders, and not as much fuel gets to cylinder 2 and espescially number 1. Thus sime cylinders will run leaner than the others, and have added waer on only the further away cylinders.

That is also true too.

[CB7 Sleeper]

Wet kit:

-Pros: opportunity to run a larger shot on stock injectors.
-Cons: opportunity for fuel to puddle up in the intake and ignite causing an intake backfire/explosion. Intakes are designed to flow air, not fuel. Wet kits are more dependent on nitrous pressure for proper atomization with fuel for a harder hit than dry kits.

Dry kit:
-Pro: ability to safely run nitrous without as likely a chance of intake backfire.
-Con: harder to tune for AFR depending on how you add fuel. You can either boost fuel pressure, tune your injector duty cycle, or spray at a MAF(which we don't have). Running too much fuel pressure and you can lock up an injector causing massive damage. If you want to run a higher shot, you need to upgrade your injectors. You need to run a fuel pressure safety switch if you're boosting fuel pressure so if you spray and extra fuel isn't added, the system wont activate saving your motor.


I prefer dry kits. You will always find people saying they like wet kits better because you add fuel at the intake. I think through the injectors is the proper way to add fuel. When someone goes turbo, they don't throw a fuel solenoid with a fan nozzle in their intake tract to add fuel. They buy bigger injectors instead of a bandaid like wet kits do. We don't have carbs anymore so our intakes aren't designed to flow fuel which can be very destructive if ignited in the intake.

So what if I went with this kit?http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.as...015&d=1646&p=1

Would I still have to worry about A/F ratio or would the system compensate for it. I want to run a 75 shot.

[D1sclaimer]

So what if I went with this kit?http://tasauto.com/Product/Detail.as...015&d=1646&p=1

Would I still have to worry about A/F ratio or would the system compensate for it. I want to run a 75 shot.

You would for sure need a bigger fuel pump for that and make sure your fuel lines are in good condition and not cracked.

That system boosts fuel pressure like mine. Anytime you run nitrous or try to tune for it, you should hook up a wideband, but with new kits, they run rich. The Zex kit, like my dry NOS kit, now have it so you run decently rich as a safety precaution so you could get away with not tuning the AFR if you don't have a wideband. I leaned mine out from 11.0 AFR with what NOS recommend to 12.2AFR.

Zex also does not include fuel pressure safety swtiches in their kits. Its a great 30 dollar investment for your motor.

[CB7 Sleeper]

You would for sure need a bigger fuel pump for that and make sure your fuel lines are in good condition and not cracked.

That system boosts fuel pressure like mine. Anytime you run nitrous or try to tune for it, you should hook up a wideband, but with new kits, they run rich. The Zex kit, like my dry NOS kit, now have it so you run decently rich as a safety precaution so you could get away with not tuning the AFR if you don't have a wideband. I leaned mine out from 11.0 AFR with what NOS recommend to 12.2AFR.

Zex also does not include fuel pressure safety swtiches in their kits. Its a great 30 dollar investment for your motor.

So I can get away with not tuning the AFR however, since I dont have a wideband would you say it would be a good idea to pull the spark plugs and check them as a safety precaution after the first few times spraying?

I am also curious what in the kit (what is it called) controls the richening of the AFR? And also, how does it do this? Does it plug into the ECU and automatically richen AFR when the button is pressed or switch is engaged?

Where would you recommend I get the fuel pressure safety switch from and what brand?

[D1sclaimer]

So I can get away with not tuning the AFR however, since I dont have a wideband would you say it would be a good idea to pull the spark plugs and check them as a safety precaution after the first few times spraying?

I am also curious what in the kit (what is it called) controls the richening of the AFR? And also, how does it do this? Does it plug into the ECU and automatically richen AFR when the button is pressed or switch is engaged?

Where would you recommend I get the fuel pressure safety switch from and what brand?

You can get away without tuning the AFR. I ran a 70 flywheel shot for a year before I even hooked up a wideband on my s2k.

Yeah, when you spray nitrous for the first time, you want to pull the plugs after to check things out. Being that you have no wideband, thats your only way to see how you're running since the spark plug is apart of the combustion cylinder. Be sure to use copper (prefered) or iridium plugs and not platinum. Platinum creates more heat and is more likely to break an electrode. I change my plugs every couple thousand miles being: 1. Its good to check your plugs semi-often to make sure you're running right and 2. Copper plugs are so cheap, you might as well just throw new ones in.

Zex puts everything in a box for you. What it does, is you tee off of your FPR to intake manifold hose with the 3rd end of the tee going to the Zex box. Inside the box, it has a tee with a small orifice that bleeds some pressure from the nitrous line to the FPR when you spray and thats how it boosts pressure through the FPR. Its simple and mechanical.

Some people don't like this method of adding fuel because with turbos, if something on it fails, you'll blow your motor because you'll still get boost. But with nitrous and the fuel pressure safety switch, it just wont spray if fuel pressure isn't raised.

[CB7 Sleeper]

So I don't need an aftermarket FPR? Do I still have to set the timing back with this kit, if so, how should I go about doing this? Moving the dizzy? or is there a better way? Also, where should I get my plugs and how many steps colder should I get for a 75 shot?

[D1sclaimer]

So I don't need an aftermarket FPR? Do I still have to set the timing back with this kit, if so, how should I go about doing this? Moving the dizzy? or is there a better way? Also, where should I get my plugs and how many steps colder should I get for a 75 shot?

No, you don't need an aftermarket FPR.

Start off small, check your plugs, adjust, and then up the shot more and repeat. So it probably comes with 25, 50, and 75 shot jets. Just start with the 25, then 50, then 75. For reference as well, NX rates their shots in whp its really a bigger shot than rated. I would guess for the 75 shot, you'd need to pull at least 2 degrees.

1 step colder spark plugs should be fine and gap the plugs at .036 ish. More if you get blow out which you shouldn't with a 75 shot.

[CB7 Sleeper]

No, you don't need an aftermarket FPR.

Start off small, check your plugs, adjust, and then up the shot more and repeat. So it probably comes with 25, 50, and 75 shot jets. Just start with the 25, then 50, then 75. For reference as well, NX rates their shots in whp its really a bigger shot than rated. I would guess for the 75 shot, you'd need to pull at least 2 degrees.

1 step colder spark plugs should be fine and gap the plugs at .036 ish. More if you get blow out which you shouldn't with a 75 shot.

Sweet, but where can I get the 1 step colder plugs? Would autozone or any other auto parts store have them? is there an online retailer? And does the ZEX kit rate a 75 shot at the wheels too, or is it at the flywheel or crank?

[D1sclaimer]

Sweet, but where can I get the 1 step colder plugs? Would autozone or any other auto parts store have them? is there an online retailer? And does the ZEX kit rate a 75 shot at the wheels too, or is it at the flywheel or crank?

Wow I'm out of it. Sorry I forgot you said Zex. In the other thread you said NX I think. Zex rates their shots in flywheel hp. So you might only need 1 degree pulled by turning the dizzy or maybe just 2 degrees. It all depends on what you see when you read your plugs.

Does the motor you're swapping in use the same heat range stock as F22a engines? If so, then you'd want to use NGK 4291 (ZFR6F-11). They're the same exact as stock f22a plugs (NGK 2262; ZFR5F-11) but 1 heat range colder. Advance auto parts has most copper NGK spark plugs for 1.98 a piece. I would verify that the stock plugs to the motor your swapping in are the same plugs as the f22a before you buy them though.

[CB7 Sleeper]

Wow I'm out of it. Sorry I forgot you said Zex. In the other thread you said NX I think. Zex rates their shots in flywheel hp. So you might only need 1 degree pulled by turning the dizzy or maybe just 2 degrees. It all depends on what you see when you read your plugs.

Does the motor you're swapping in use the same heat range stock as F22a engines? If so, then you'd want to use NGK 4291 (ZFR6F-11). They're the same exact as stock f22a plugs (NGK 2262; ZFR5F-11) but 1 heat range colder. Advance auto parts has most copper NGK spark plugs for 1.98 a piece. I would verify that the stock plugs to the motor your swapping in are the same plugs as the f22a before you buy them though.

well the F20a is the motor I am swapping and it has practically an H23 head so I'm not sure about the heat range. I can look into that though.

But turning the dizzy for a 1-2 degree retard isn't bad for the motor or anything. I wont be spraying constantly as this is my daily driver, so when I am rolling off the spray I dont want the retard to hurt my motor. (no pun intended)

[D1sclaimer]

well the F20a is the motor I am swapping and it has practically an H23 head so I'm not sure about the heat range. I can look into that though.

But turning the dizzy for a 1-2 degree retard isn't bad for the motor or anything. I wont be spraying constantly as this is my daily driver, so when I am rolling off the spray I dont want the retard to hurt my motor. (no pun intended)

1-2 degree retard isn't bad at all for running off the spray daily driving. It'll be fine.

[CB7 Sleeper]

Ok, so with the ZEX kit.

-It automatically corrects AFR.
-I need 1 step colder plugs.
-I need a 1-2 degree retard in timing and this shouldn't damage the motor during daily driving.
-I should go up in spray and adjust as I go with the 25-50-75 shots, making sure to look over the spark plugs after each run.

I'm not missing anything am I?