Installing nitrous

[tootall]

Is there any good threads that show and tell in good detail how to install it, i just want a 50 shot on top of my turbo power just to use at the track and dont know if i shoulod go with a wet or dry system, and whats the main difference and which is easiest to install and if i should by it piece by piece cause i cant fins a kit that i can afford right now, maybe later, just cant find a good thread on insallation and which is better and easier to install. thanks...

[bigpoppa694lyfe]

Dry kit- bottle ---> solenoid---> nozzle. Wet kit is essentially the same except there's 2 solenoids (nitrous/fuel). Fuel solenoid has a line in and a line out. Personally, best bang for your buck nitrous kit I've found is the CompuCar "nitrous in a bag" kit. They are a dry kit that includes every piece required and has jets rated for I believe 25, 40, 60, 80, and 100. The "bag" part of the kit is a gym bag that you can hide the kit in.

[domesticated]

If you have a turbo it means you have tunablility already? Go with a dry kit that goes in before the TB. If you put it before the IC a large majority of power you gain from the cold air is lost as it goes through the IC. If you can't tune for more fuel for some reason then obviously go with wet.

[lucifer1]

Dry kits add nitrous, wet kits add nitrous and fuel. So with a dry kit you will need a reliable way to enrichen the fuel like a programmble ecu. With a wet system you should direct port it with a nozzle in each runner. The dry you can do at the throttle body. The dry sytems are usually easier to install and bit cheaper.

I have run dry systems in the past but I would never do it again unless I had a programmable ecu.

[tootall]

well i may try to do the dry kit the because i do have a chipped p06 that im constantly adding fuel or adjusting and burning new chips to tune it, so i may go that route.... thanks for the info, if anyone else has any input, throw it out there, thanks..

[MortsAccord]

First, do you have money for a tuning session to get a dry kit tuned, and on top of that do you have the extra duty cycle left in you injectors(let alone fuel pump) to safely compensate the fuel needed to add for the n2o?

If you can't afford tuning then buy a wet kit.... but then again if you can't afford the tuning why even modify it anyways







I don't know what domesticated means really, but I hope its not they way I first took it when reading his post.**thinking on nozzle systems here**

N2O ports should be added as close as possible to the intake ports. Read this:
http://mysite.verizon.net/vzezeqah/s...trousoxide.pdf

You'll also need to adjust your ignition timing and possibly run a higher octane fuel when using it.

[SOHC-FTW]

You can run a wet kit right before or tapped/threaded into the TB just fine. Direct port is just that its for each intake port in which a normal simple kit does not contain.

[bigpoppa694lyfe]

You can safely run a 50 shot dry without and crazy tuning or ignition retarding. Just run a step cooler plugs and you'll be just fine. It's been done by many for years. No need to add fuel either as the ecu adds fuel automatically once it senses the cooler intake charge

[MortsAccord]

You can safely run a 50 shot dry without and crazy tuning or ignition retarding. Just run a step cooler plugs and you'll be just fine. It's been done by many for years. No need to add fuel either as the ecu adds fuel automatically once it senses the cooler intake charge

Recommending a dry N2o mod on a already boosted motor, of which the duty cycle of his injectors you dont know? Not good advice.

The ecu and sensors are not as fast as what would happen if he did the proposed setup that this thread is about.

Whether its safe or not depends on his setup. If he ran a step colder plugs for the burst hes talking about hed probably have dirty plugs in a short while, unless he was burning through n2o all the time.

[domesticated]

I don't know what domesticated means really, but I hope its not they way I first took it when reading his post.**thinking on nozzle systems here**

Some people don't put it as close to the intake as possible not paying attention to heat soak and that a lot of the power comes from heat and not just the richer o2 content. ZEX sells a filter that has the nozzle plug directly into the filter as far away as possible. I've seen them on the atmospheric side of a turbo before. Just saying it needs to be as close the the TB as possible. If he had the knowledge and means to go direct port he wouldn't be asking questions. Dry is the safest way to go if you're thorough. Absolutely no risk of back fire. But if you have to go wet I wouldn't ever run a wet kit unless it was direct port.

I ran a 100 shot on my 2.4 in my Neon with every N/A mod possible except stock internals and it ran like a champ. It was dry too. Here soon I'll be putty a mild dry shot on the H22.

No matter what you decide tuning is important. Otherwise you'll be just another ricer who blew his shit up with "naws".

[toycar]

Sorry I didn't respond to your email, just saw that and then saw this.

I wouldn't mess with n2o until you have your tune figured out. How are your afr's lately?

Still 20:1 under boost? n2o could blow your motor if so


There is a lot of information on setting this up in the nitrous sub section. If it was me, I would get my tune straight before adding anything go fast related.


That being said, you could probably build more pressure to make more power if you are itching for more once you get your tune buttoned down. You still making 15 psi or so?

I have a feeling you would best benefit from a quality tuner getting in there with a dyno and a few hours to fiddle around.

[domesticated]

20:1? He's gonna blow the welds on his intake...

You shouldn't be driving your car like that. Or thinking about adding more air. You already don't have enough fuel.

[toycar]

20:1?

You shouldn't be driving your car like that. Or thinking about adding more air. You already don't have enough fuel.

Preaching to the choir here brother

Hes not using an emulator, so he has to burn a new chip everytime he adjusts anything, and he is trying to be self taught.

I told him the odds are stacked against him but try not to get frustrated. I haven't heard wether or not he got his fuel delivery dialed in.

[deevergote]

Honestly, for what it would cost to install and tune a nitrous system, you could simply upgrade your turbo for an extra 50hp... full time.

A 50 shot is relatively harmless on a stock car, but on a highly modified turbo honda, it's a serious risk. Especially if you're still learning, and not having it done professionally. A quick 50hp squirt at the track really isn't worth risking a blown engine, IMO.

However, if you do choose to go that route, MortsAccord has the right idea about the dry shot, provided your injectors are up to supplying the proper amount of fuel. Overwork those injectors, and you'll go boom.
A single fogger dry shot will be more evenly distributed than a single fogger wet shot. If you get a wet kit, you'll run the risk of overfueling the cylinders closest to the throttle body, and underfueling the cylinders furthest. All you need is to run too lean in one of the furthest cylinders, and you'll have a nicely ventilated block. A port injection kit, with dedicated nitrous and fuel nozzles for each cylinder would be the safest, and easiest to tune... but that's a pretty serious project, and it won't be cheap.

[toycar]

With AFR's all out of whack, you are not really able to take advantage of advancing ignition timing under peak boost either, so in my opinion the money would be better spent getting your tune straightened out.


I bet you are missing 20-30% of the power you are already setup to make, just because the tune is shotty.