b4 i get to far in depth lemme say these little things to help everyone that is learning (i am still learning) understand nitrous better....
How does nitrous work?
Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
and this is where i am going to start... on a dry nitrous setup mostly u should only run up to a 75 shot and not over.. the reason why is.. U have no fuel added for this setup!!! dont even try... it would be stupid! anyways.. back to what i was saying... on a dry kit u have no added fuel so when u "spray" as we call it u arent adding any fuel so therefore it is unsafe to go past a limit of fuel to air ratio.. in retrospect, this would make u go lean going above those settings... but myself, i like Wet Kits.. U r adding fuel and can go up to a 125 shot from what i have seen built honda motors take on something other than a direct port setup... so that being said, here is where i will break it down and get in the info i want to....
on a Wet nitrous kit u are adding fuel to nitrous instead of A) the computer compensating.. or B) u doing it manually.. the kit, or "nozzle" is doing it for you.. now what this does is optimize fuel to air ratio by adding what else, fuel and somewhat air... this allows the engine to take more with out damage because of the added fuel... now b4 i used to love my dry nitrous kit from ZEX. the reason why was ecause u had that neat little box and u could hook up the Vac line to the FPR and basically increase Fuel pressure with more vac and basically make the FPR think it is seing boosted conditions and increase fuel. Cause nitrous is a form of FI then u must need more fuel, most of the time anyways, that or your engine will like it more in FI moments anyways, for a better A/F ratio. Kk, so now that we have talked of the ZEX kits the reason it sucked was no extra fuel after spraying because i was only injecting nitrous and not fuel. So some good nice ass fuel managment was out of the question for me, i went from I/H/E and a Straight pipe/Test pipe with the nitrous jet at a 65 and the fuel jet (yes, even though it is a dry kit, it uses a fuel jet to regulate the "bosst" that the FPR sees to corespond with how much nitrous is getting used) at a 75 shot, the reason why was because i thought i was injecting more fuel. wrong!
even though ZEX claims to be the "safer" kit they do really baby there stuff and that is why it is "safer".. what i mean is, NX, NOs and all the other kits that are alike rate at the wheels for HP, and the ZEX kit is rated at the flywheel. That blows because that mans using a ZEX kit u will make less power than a NX kit or other, doesn`t sound right does it? ok then, so again, i went from that setup to a NX wet kit, the reason why i like it. i can finally use some bomb ass computer softeware to tune and still use my nitrous because i am injecting fuel and nitrous now, so technically my A/F ratio should be the same all the way accross.. so this is what i did.. i had my new nitrous kit installed and hit the dyno, i tuned with my SAFC for a little it and pulled a couple ponies and some better MPG, which is awsome, cause with the rising gas prices tuning may actually be in mind for more people to squeeze out a couple reliable HP and more MPG.. so that being said... i tuned and got a nice A/F and then i started thinking, so my mind was racing and i hit my work (AutoZone) and picked up some NGK 7`s (DO NOT USE PLATS.!!!) anyways, put em in and was happy to see what kind of A/F`s i woul see with nitrous, so i made the run.... and was psyched when i found out the results, awsome air/fuel ratio, this thing rocled i mean, perfect, and even though i was at 60 HP jets i felt comfortable using this kit, it made me more at ease knowing that i was using fuel also...
and some more little tips:
dont hit the rev limiter when spraying!
dont use a torch to heat up the bottle!
closing the gap on some plugs might help if u r worried of detonation
DONT USE PLAT PLUGS!
use iridium or reulars
DUH! Wet is better than Dry! (but as of now i like dry wiht Uberdata nitrous controls)
mount the bottle with a bottle heater or if not get a gym bag like i did and mount the brackets inside that, when i close the bag i have A) a warm spot to get aswome bottle pressure, and B) noone can see the magic vanishing bottle!
spray between 850-1000psi bottle pressure
dont use any type of Octane Booster
only use 91 gas
and no matter what anyone says, dont mount it infront of ur passenger seat, no protection, u dont believe me, i have seen 2 white people do it!
make sure u are mechanically sound (stock timing or below and everything runs smooth)
use a WOT switch or make sure u r in gear and at ull throttle b4 u spray
and i guess last but not least, and take this as a friend to a friend, dont bump up your jets to impress people.. i know people out here that do it for power and all thery do is break shit, then also real quick.
u wanna stray away from the fuel cut-off by about 300 RPM at least!! u hit that by by, and one more thing..
i have sprayed first gear many times in races, make sure u have A) tracion) and B) a good diaper on, but no seriously, traction, and also when u hit that shit it is ganna feel weird as hell because the spray adds u know, for me 65 HP wherever i hit the button, i do like idling roll-ons with my friends where u roll at like 3 MPH with just the clutch out and when u honk 3 times u hit the throttle, (like a regualr drag race but a minimal roll for traction) ... i hit it at 3k and of course i have tracion but hitting it in first gear at 3k make me queezy, its like this, say at 3k you make u know, ill throw a number, 80hp, so u hit it at 3k infirst gear, whats ganna happen, with me i go from 80hp or so, or whatever plus 65hp.... 145HP, thats past what my car makes at the crank.. thats a lot.. and in such a short gear going from 79HP one second to 145hp in the next is crazy, itll take time getting used to but just feel it out, what helps is really sticky tires.. cause we all know, it is like if ur driving in the rain or with a dead clutch.. u hammer it in first u dont go anywhere but that rev limiter sure does come up a bizzilian times faster than if u had traction and that means by-by motor...
Personal use is what the reast is about:
well the way i do it is i have been up to a 100 shot on various motors... never over 75 on a LS or B20 and never over 100 or under a 75 on GSR/TYPE R/ B16 motors... had em all.. anyways, i am actually going up to a 90hp shot from a 65 shot (sold my 75 shot jets to a kid at the track) and all i am running even for a 90 shot on previous occasions 2 step colder plugs and 1 degree retard in ignition, like stock honda maps start at 16.5* stock, from Hondata and Crome/Uberdata maps... so at 3k RPM i go back exactly 1 degree.... o i leave the §§§§§ at 16 degrees even.. so i am backed down 1.5* exactly... a good rule of thumb is
50-55 shot: 1 step colder plugs
60-65 shot: 1 step colder plugs / .5-.8 degree ignition retard (really hard to do without a digitally read timming gun)
70-75 shot: 1 step colder plugs / 1.0- 1.5 degrees retard
90 shot and above: 2 step colder plugs / 1.5-1.75 degrees retard
some people might be weary about this but being a tuner myself out here in the desert those r the bare minimiums i would go.. anything more is ganna help but not necessarilly ganna keep u as fast... the reason i go by such exact incriments is because when i tune a car i use my digital gun (250 bux from snap-on) and get it to 16.5 degrees exactly... mine is at 16.00 degrees or (*) but i retarded the maps back to match, the reason why is for some reason my LS motor that i have right now loves it, dont know why, anymore and i would lose power.... so basically at idle im at 16 degrees which is .5 degrees behind stock, where as at 3k im at 1.5 degrees behind stock timing if that makes sense...
i have sprayed on every motor u could think of from 60K miles to 255K miles... on a 30-35 shot to 125 shot.. just depends on what u know.. my B20 when it blew up was on a 100shot and i cracked a sleeve misshifting, fucking people that cant drive... i was on a arm switch and a push button then and a bitch moved lanes, and i let off of the gas and stayed on the bottle not paying attention, only off of it for 1/4 of a secon and i swear by that, and pop.. nitrous and no air or fuel and boom... my fault...
but now i have nitrous controls in uberdata that activates the bottle at 90 percent throttle and between certain gears only...
for any newb to Nitrous i would suggest for sure colder plugs, start at a 50 shot, check for stock ignition timing, make sure the bottle i at 950psi-1200psi and have a arm switch, button, RPM and throttle position switch, with those four u have to be at a certain RPM to spray, armed, pushed down the button, and at full throttle for it to work... pretty good deal and not even my GF has blown a motor after 10K miles of spraying for the last year, a bottle a week with that setup.. good luck homie...
How does nitrous work?
Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.
and this is where i am going to start... on a dry nitrous setup mostly u should only run up to a 75 shot and not over.. the reason why is.. U have no fuel added for this setup!!! dont even try... it would be stupid! anyways.. back to what i was saying... on a dry kit u have no added fuel so when u "spray" as we call it u arent adding any fuel so therefore it is unsafe to go past a limit of fuel to air ratio.. in retrospect, this would make u go lean going above those settings... but myself, i like Wet Kits.. U r adding fuel and can go up to a 125 shot from what i have seen built honda motors take on something other than a direct port setup... so that being said, here is where i will break it down and get in the info i want to....
on a Wet nitrous kit u are adding fuel to nitrous instead of A) the computer compensating.. or B) u doing it manually.. the kit, or "nozzle" is doing it for you.. now what this does is optimize fuel to air ratio by adding what else, fuel and somewhat air... this allows the engine to take more with out damage because of the added fuel... now b4 i used to love my dry nitrous kit from ZEX. the reason why was ecause u had that neat little box and u could hook up the Vac line to the FPR and basically increase Fuel pressure with more vac and basically make the FPR think it is seing boosted conditions and increase fuel. Cause nitrous is a form of FI then u must need more fuel, most of the time anyways, that or your engine will like it more in FI moments anyways, for a better A/F ratio. Kk, so now that we have talked of the ZEX kits the reason it sucked was no extra fuel after spraying because i was only injecting nitrous and not fuel. So some good nice ass fuel managment was out of the question for me, i went from I/H/E and a Straight pipe/Test pipe with the nitrous jet at a 65 and the fuel jet (yes, even though it is a dry kit, it uses a fuel jet to regulate the "bosst" that the FPR sees to corespond with how much nitrous is getting used) at a 75 shot, the reason why was because i thought i was injecting more fuel. wrong!
even though ZEX claims to be the "safer" kit they do really baby there stuff and that is why it is "safer".. what i mean is, NX, NOs and all the other kits that are alike rate at the wheels for HP, and the ZEX kit is rated at the flywheel. That blows because that mans using a ZEX kit u will make less power than a NX kit or other, doesn`t sound right does it? ok then, so again, i went from that setup to a NX wet kit, the reason why i like it. i can finally use some bomb ass computer softeware to tune and still use my nitrous because i am injecting fuel and nitrous now, so technically my A/F ratio should be the same all the way accross.. so this is what i did.. i had my new nitrous kit installed and hit the dyno, i tuned with my SAFC for a little it and pulled a couple ponies and some better MPG, which is awsome, cause with the rising gas prices tuning may actually be in mind for more people to squeeze out a couple reliable HP and more MPG.. so that being said... i tuned and got a nice A/F and then i started thinking, so my mind was racing and i hit my work (AutoZone) and picked up some NGK 7`s (DO NOT USE PLATS.!!!) anyways, put em in and was happy to see what kind of A/F`s i woul see with nitrous, so i made the run.... and was psyched when i found out the results, awsome air/fuel ratio, this thing rocled i mean, perfect, and even though i was at 60 HP jets i felt comfortable using this kit, it made me more at ease knowing that i was using fuel also...
and some more little tips:
dont hit the rev limiter when spraying!
dont use a torch to heat up the bottle!
closing the gap on some plugs might help if u r worried of detonation
DONT USE PLAT PLUGS!
use iridium or reulars
DUH! Wet is better than Dry! (but as of now i like dry wiht Uberdata nitrous controls)
mount the bottle with a bottle heater or if not get a gym bag like i did and mount the brackets inside that, when i close the bag i have A) a warm spot to get aswome bottle pressure, and B) noone can see the magic vanishing bottle!
spray between 850-1000psi bottle pressure
dont use any type of Octane Booster
only use 91 gas
and no matter what anyone says, dont mount it infront of ur passenger seat, no protection, u dont believe me, i have seen 2 white people do it!
make sure u are mechanically sound (stock timing or below and everything runs smooth)
use a WOT switch or make sure u r in gear and at ull throttle b4 u spray
and i guess last but not least, and take this as a friend to a friend, dont bump up your jets to impress people.. i know people out here that do it for power and all thery do is break shit, then also real quick.
u wanna stray away from the fuel cut-off by about 300 RPM at least!! u hit that by by, and one more thing..
i have sprayed first gear many times in races, make sure u have A) tracion) and B) a good diaper on, but no seriously, traction, and also when u hit that shit it is ganna feel weird as hell because the spray adds u know, for me 65 HP wherever i hit the button, i do like idling roll-ons with my friends where u roll at like 3 MPH with just the clutch out and when u honk 3 times u hit the throttle, (like a regualr drag race but a minimal roll for traction) ... i hit it at 3k and of course i have tracion but hitting it in first gear at 3k make me queezy, its like this, say at 3k you make u know, ill throw a number, 80hp, so u hit it at 3k infirst gear, whats ganna happen, with me i go from 80hp or so, or whatever plus 65hp.... 145HP, thats past what my car makes at the crank.. thats a lot.. and in such a short gear going from 79HP one second to 145hp in the next is crazy, itll take time getting used to but just feel it out, what helps is really sticky tires.. cause we all know, it is like if ur driving in the rain or with a dead clutch.. u hammer it in first u dont go anywhere but that rev limiter sure does come up a bizzilian times faster than if u had traction and that means by-by motor...
Personal use is what the reast is about:
well the way i do it is i have been up to a 100 shot on various motors... never over 75 on a LS or B20 and never over 100 or under a 75 on GSR/TYPE R/ B16 motors... had em all.. anyways, i am actually going up to a 90hp shot from a 65 shot (sold my 75 shot jets to a kid at the track) and all i am running even for a 90 shot on previous occasions 2 step colder plugs and 1 degree retard in ignition, like stock honda maps start at 16.5* stock, from Hondata and Crome/Uberdata maps... so at 3k RPM i go back exactly 1 degree.... o i leave the §§§§§ at 16 degrees even.. so i am backed down 1.5* exactly... a good rule of thumb is
50-55 shot: 1 step colder plugs
60-65 shot: 1 step colder plugs / .5-.8 degree ignition retard (really hard to do without a digitally read timming gun)
70-75 shot: 1 step colder plugs / 1.0- 1.5 degrees retard
90 shot and above: 2 step colder plugs / 1.5-1.75 degrees retard
some people might be weary about this but being a tuner myself out here in the desert those r the bare minimiums i would go.. anything more is ganna help but not necessarilly ganna keep u as fast... the reason i go by such exact incriments is because when i tune a car i use my digital gun (250 bux from snap-on) and get it to 16.5 degrees exactly... mine is at 16.00 degrees or (*) but i retarded the maps back to match, the reason why is for some reason my LS motor that i have right now loves it, dont know why, anymore and i would lose power.... so basically at idle im at 16 degrees which is .5 degrees behind stock, where as at 3k im at 1.5 degrees behind stock timing if that makes sense...
i have sprayed on every motor u could think of from 60K miles to 255K miles... on a 30-35 shot to 125 shot.. just depends on what u know.. my B20 when it blew up was on a 100shot and i cracked a sleeve misshifting, fucking people that cant drive... i was on a arm switch and a push button then and a bitch moved lanes, and i let off of the gas and stayed on the bottle not paying attention, only off of it for 1/4 of a secon and i swear by that, and pop.. nitrous and no air or fuel and boom... my fault...
but now i have nitrous controls in uberdata that activates the bottle at 90 percent throttle and between certain gears only...
for any newb to Nitrous i would suggest for sure colder plugs, start at a 50 shot, check for stock ignition timing, make sure the bottle i at 950psi-1200psi and have a arm switch, button, RPM and throttle position switch, with those four u have to be at a certain RPM to spray, armed, pushed down the button, and at full throttle for it to work... pretty good deal and not even my GF has blown a motor after 10K miles of spraying for the last year, a bottle a week with that setup.. good luck homie...
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