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NOS, HOW>

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    NOS, HOW>

    I know the differnence between Dry and Wet but how do you hook up the fuel?Do you T ofo of a fuel line or what?\

    Also on a direct port kit is there any easy way to do it for an F22 or H22 or do you have to drill the holes into the manifold? Thanks

    #2
    dunno bout the fuel hookup on the wet system but on the direct port theres no other way you gotta drille thats why they call it direct port system

    PSN ID's:Tidashoni
    1992 Accord EX Coupe
    My FS Thread
    Not so DD 2013 Subaru Impreza WRX STI
    Originally posted by deevergote
    Boosting with a carb is like being a sniper with a bazooka... it works, it gets the job done, but it's not the most precise method.

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      #3
      On a wet shot you T into the fuel line that feeds the fuel rail.
      H22-T FTW!!!

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        #4
        Oh, so nos kits come with all the hardware to do it right?

        Comment


          #5
          NOS is a trademarked nitrous kit made by Holley. The correct term is nitrous and depending on which kit you get it should supply all the hardware for installation.

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            #6
            ....

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              #8
              Nitrous faq, located just just above.
              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=252
              2010 Taurus SHO - Livernois Goodies
              2002 BMW 330 CI Convertible - HUNK OF JUNK

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                #9
                Originally posted by jDmacCordh22a
                On a wet shot you T into the fuel line that feeds the fuel rail.
                No, you tap the return line. You never tap the pressure line, for one you lower the pressure available to the injectors and when you open your fuel solonoid the injectors will lose flow from the sudden pressure drop. Secondly an EFI fuel system runs on an average of 40-45psi of fuel pressure, that's why all the lines are crimped, or bolted with high pressure fittings to avoid leaks, a hose clamp on a "t" could possibly leak fuel. There is more then enough fuel pressure on the return line to feed the fuel solonoid(s).
                My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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                  #10
                  Originally posted by BustedLX
                  No, you tap the return line. You never tap the pressure line, for one you lower the pressure available to the injectors and when you open your fuel solonoid the injectors will lose flow from the sudden pressure drop. Secondly an EFI fuel system runs on an average of 40-45psi of fuel pressure, that's why all the lines are crimped, or bolted with high pressure fittings to avoid leaks, a hose clamp on a "t" could possibly leak fuel. There is more then enough fuel pressure on the return line to feed the fuel solonoid(s).
                  interesting... i was told (and i think in the booklet?) it said to T off of the feed line? i need to look again, and possibly redo my lines hahaha. no leaks, but i still havent used it yet...


                  - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                  - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                  - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                  - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                  - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                  - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                  - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                  - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                  Current cars:
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                  - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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                    #11
                    Originally posted by cp[mike]
                    interesting... i was told (and i think in the booklet?) it said to T off of the feed line? i need to look again, and possibly redo my lines hahaha. no leaks, but i still havent used it yet...
                    Yeah check it, It'll say not to tap the supply line on an EFI car, Crab is ok, 8-12psi of fuel. You only need that much pressure for the fogger, it's not about pressure it's about volume anyway.

                    If you want a sick nitrous setup you'll run a high dry shot with larger injectors and tune the ECU for ignition retard and extra fuel the injectors will need to dump. That's how mine is done 100K sparying 100+ (like 110-115) shot and no problems baby
                    My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

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                      #12
                      my kit tells me to tap the supply line its made by nitrous supply.com a mike thermos kit.
                      93 SE sedan aka Green Lantern sold 3/14/05
                      93 10th Anni. sedan sold 10/16/06
                      92 Toyota Std Cab 4x4 sold 11/10/07
                      92 H23 Coupe 100 shot
                      94 LX Wagon
                      00 Odyssey LX
                      92 LX Wagon
                      87 Toyota Ext Cab 4x4
                      H/FSAE (H/F Series Accord Enthusiasts)"A dying breed..."#19

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                        #13
                        wow

                        BustedLX I would LOVE a setup such as yours. Could you explain why you choose dry over wet ? Also what tuning tools did you use to gain that kind of reliabilty? Cam gears Timing gun burn1 emulator wide band ect ?

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                          #14
                          Originally posted by 10thcb7
                          BustedLX I would LOVE a setup such as yours. Could you explain why you choose dry over wet ? Also what tuning tools did you use to gain that kind of reliabilty? Cam gears Timing gun burn1 emulator wide band ect ?
                          I choose dry because it made more sense to me from a tuning perspective. I don't have to worry about the heavier fuel trying to atomize correctly with the nitrous gas. I also don't have to worry that I'll be leaning out the cylinder furthest from the TB because the heavier fuel is drawn to the closet cylinder first. It's more efficient in my opinion as far as a single fogger is concerned.

                          By injecting only nitrous gas and tunning injector duration I can increase the amount of fuel necessary via the ECU and not a jet dumping fuel into my TB.

                          To tune the setup I use Crome as my rom editor with realtime programing, a romulator, and my car has a PLX-M300 wide band oxygen sensor perm. installed.

                          To switch between the N/A tune and the N2O tune on the fly I use an ECUTune N2O module. Which is basically a double capacity chip that stores two maps as obbosed to one and via a trigger wire (electronic WOT switch in Zex module) makes the tune switch instantly. So yes I dismanteled the Zex module so that I could interface it's built in electronic WOT switch.

                          This is how I can maintain driveability N/A and yet still spray such a large shot with the correct fuel and ignition timing.
                          My unupdate website Speedworx-online.com, lol. <click here>.

                          Comment


                            #15
                            Nitrous Express recommend pulling fuel from the rail or from the high pressure feed line. They SPECIFICALLY say do NOT use the return line.

                            NOS also states that if you are not drawing off the test port/fuel rail you will need to draw fuel from the high pressure supply line.

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