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Ball joints, alignment

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    #16
    HA HA...negative camber IS cool...to a point...this is my DD and I can't have worn inner tire wear...race car maybe...but if you've got that then you aren't getting full traction anyway...that's where tuning the suspension comes into play...have to sacrifice longevity a little for performance BUT I'm not to that point yet.

    And yes...toe that is out SUCKS for your tires....gah!!!

    ALSO...I was calling neuspeeds super cup kit a sport suspension but that is wrong...it's neuspeeds RACE suspension...and they are yellow.
    They are neuspeed race springs...but nesupeed/koni dampers, that's the right statement there.

    since I will most likely have a shop do this alignment for me, I doubt they'll let me do it...should I go ahead and get neuspeeds rear upper control arms?

    I keep being told to use the longer bolts and washers...but how am I going to do my alignment without a rack...or did you who did use the longer bolts have an alignment shop do it for you or did you do the alignment yourself...if so...how?
    Last edited by bcjammerx; 09-02-2008, 05:44 PM.
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      #17
      For the front, the adj. b/j's are great, SPC makes a great product and I know afew other companies make them too. Those only apply to the uppers, there's no such thing as an adj. front lower b/j. I think the 1.5-3 would be the way to go, Noxidea is right. Mine are maxed out @ 3* of pos. camber correction, and I still have quite abit of neg. camber! When I raise it up about 1.5" it becomes roughly 0*.

      Well, prior to your 1st alignment w/ all these parts installed, you can get a rough idea of where your camber is, both front and rear using a framing square (w/ a level floor surface) or a level. I would try to dial it in yourself before you go. Also, let your springs settle out too if you can (I realize your tires are important here if you need to drive it during the settling) b/c they will def. settle, causing more neg. camber. When you correct the camber, the toe will get alot worse, be mindful of that.

      For the R. UCA's, I guess it's all up to you, you need the b/j's and the bushings are far from new, maybe just do it all and get aftermarket R. UCAs w/ camber adj. capability. Or get stock replacements if you find a good deal and use washers and longer bolts.

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        #18
        Thanks for that advice.

        I swear I saw adjustable lower ball joints, if I see them again I'll post a link HA HA HA...might have been a typo...more than likely what happened is this; I looked up upper ball joints on rock auto, then I went to advance auto's website and enter the same part number, I got two ball joints to pop up...labled as upper and lower...prolly something like that

        does spc = specialty parts company?
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          #19
          ^I believe that's what SPC stands for (although it may be products and not parts), not 100% but sounds right! Maybe that LBJ thing was a typo or maybe they do exist, but more moving parts on a LBJ isn't a good idea in my book, existent or not

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