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    Ball joints, alignment

    Lots of questions...I'm putting them in "quote" form to make it easier...

    Here's the story.
    ok I'm going to wait on the super cup kit (neuspeed koni yellows (springs/shocks))...but I need new ball joints and an alignment NOW...too much negative camber eating my inner tires.

    I'm guessing my springs are sagging a little, but I'm sure the ball joints aren't helping.

    I am looking into ball joints right now, and I've decided to not replace the whole upper control arm. I will replace just the ball joint, as i have found several "upper ball joint" only parts.

    Question 1
    So, should I buy an adjustable ball joint to go in the upper control arm (front) or should I get a regular ball joint for the front? Then, once I DO get the new shocks/springs, buy an ingalls camber adjusting kit?
    Question 2
    What is your experience with the adjustable ball joints vs ingalls style camber correction kit (control arm anchor bolt style)
    Question 3
    Also, for the rears, is it possible to replace JUST the ball joints or do the only sell the whole arm.
    And...if that's the case,
    question 4
    won't I need something to adjust the rear camber as well once I buy this setup?
    G-man informs me that neuspeeds koni yellows setup will give me a pretty good drop...
    Question 5
    So when I do get the koni's, will I need 1.5 degree +- camber correcting parts or a 3 degree?
    ____

    #2
    hmmmm
    ____

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      #3
      aaaaaaany one?
      ____

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        #4
        I dunno if this will help but I was really low on the omnipowers and I used the washer trick for the back and had the ingalls balljoint camber kit I didnt drive the car much but they seemed to be pretty good.Just a thought, before you go and buy new balljoints give me a pm if your interested in my ingalls kit that Im selling.


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          #5
          Okay, you've got some good thoughts! For the front upper b/j's, I would def. go w/ adj. b/j's since the anchor bolts will push the UCA more towards the inner fender. I have had great success w/ the SPC adj. b/j's, and you'd be doing 2 things at once. For the rear upper b/j's, it is possible to replace just the b/j's, check out rockauto, they're made by spicer. I've made a post or 2 about them. Or find a local parts store that carries Spicer parts. Obviously check your bushings on those specific arms too, weigh out your options if the bushings are worn (maybe new arms instead? OR go w/ Prothane bushings eventually?) There's plenty of options for rear camber correction, but washers and longer bolts (if necessary) def. do the trick and you can adjust as needed. How much does the Neuspeed setup drop you? I'm inclined to say the 1.5-3* setup but I really don't know, you want some neg. camber, you don't want to cancel all of it out!

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the replies...I believe G-Man said it was around a 2" drop, I don't really want my camber to be out of factory spec or greater than 1 degree...unless factory spec IS greater than 1 degree I dunno. (I want to say most cars have a 1.5 degree neg camber up front from factory)

            I didn't think about the arms being pushed closer to the fender, thanks for that insight.

            As for bushings I plan on replacing all of them when I get the koni setup. Until then I want to focus on keeping my current tires from being prematurely worn.

            When I start replacing bushings I know there will be some in the rear where replacing the arm would just be easier. I will have to read over cp[mike]'s post again...damn good post. I've heard of a lot of folks using the washers and bolts idea (that along with cp's replace your pressed in bushings idea)...only problem, I will have to have a shop do the alignment for me. There is a slight possibility I could talk my buddy who still work at the dealership i used to work at to either let me do the alignment or have him do it...in that case...no biggy (I would rather do it myself no matter what, sport suspension or factory...damn I need to get a rack). So for THOSE bushing I may just go ahead and get new arms...and I might just get the adjustable upper arms for the rear...prolly make the alignment easier any way.

            Well I guess I will go ahead and get the adjustable upper ball joints then...I could go extreme and get adjustable bottom ball joints...I don't see why I would want to do that...i didn't think they actually made those.

            So now that brings up two more questions.

            1. if the drop is 2-2.5 inches...how many degrees adjustable ball joints do I need to get?

            2. pros/cons of front bottom adjustable ball joints? Having those as adjustable just doesn't sit well with me for some reason

            thanks again for y'alls replies!
            ____

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              #7
              Factory spec camber is MAYBE -.5 negative. I am running no camber kit now up front and I would estimate about -2.5 to -3 degrees of camber. Which I don't mind, it certainly helped auto-x times.

              For the rear all you really need is some longer bolts and washers to space out the rear a bit.
              Gary A.K.A. Carter
              [sig killed by photobucket]

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                #8
                thanks g-man, in your members ride page you list the ingalls camber correction kit, but it isn't installed? And is the drop 2" or 2.5" with your koni sport springs?

                *added*
                how bad IS your inner tire wear? I know my toe is a BIG part of the problem, I'm just curious though.
                Last edited by bcjammerx; 09-01-2008, 10:35 PM.
                ____

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by bcjammerx View Post
                  thanks g-man, in your members ride page you list the ingalls camber correction kit, but it isn't installed? And is the drop 2" or 2.5" with your koni sport springs?

                  *added*
                  how bad IS your inner tire wear? I know my toe is a BIG part of the problem, I'm just curious though.
                  Well, I did have it but I took it out like a month ago. My alignment is now off.

                  However in the 1000 or so miles prior to this weekend's autox extravaganza I noticed no additional wear on my tires. But, another exception I know, I currently am running Nitto NeoGen tires which are advertised to have a continuous inner shoulder to combat camber wear.

                  I do not have koni sport springs, there is no such thing.

                  I do have neuspeed race springs with kyb agx struts right now. The drop is at least 2 inches I guess. I am not one for measuring that kind of stuff. I just know it is low. My exhaust scrapes in a lot of places, however, it is 2.5'' and hangs lower than most others. Hell, I scraped it in this tight compound curve in the mountains a couple of weeks ago.
                  Gary A.K.A. Carter
                  [sig killed by photobucket]

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                    #10
                    If you get the neuspeed sck, i would NOT get the ingalls camber kit. I would get the adjustable ball joint type. I have the SCK and I have the ingalls and I have to be at negative camber so my UCA wont hit the top of the body. I have the race springs BTW.

                    I got the TAS Pro UCA with adjustable b/j... waiting to be installed. just havent had the time yet.

                    I also did the washer trick for the rear. I got whole new control arms for the rear (also waiting to be installed.)

                    Sorry its a little late for me, ( i just came back from san diego so im a little tired and too lazy to read the whole thread) PM me if you need any other details.

                    Paul

                    Sold, but not forgotten.

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                      #11
                      ok here is where im at , I had the Nuespeed race springs on Tokico Blues for a year with an Anchor bolt style camber kit and when i totally corrected camber my UCA's hit hard on bumps into the strut tower bottom so i re-adjusted them to be 1.5 out and it worked but sucked for tire wear, so now I have D2 Coilovers with Ingalls Ball joint Style kit the 1.5 - 3.0 degree setup and have it set on the 3.0 of correction and its perfect , but im also dropped close to 3" so for a neuspeed 2.5" settled drop on the bottom perch of a koni yellow, I would say get the 1.5-3.0 because your will definatelly have atleast 1.5 degree needed to be fixed if u want stock spec camber ...... Ive personally seen Granites car and his sits nice very little camber out on his as well with D2's dropped about same as mine .... Ball Joint Camber Kit FTW definatelly and dont wast money on the rear camber arms they do the same thing as the bolts and washer trick and if u need bushings u will like prothanes better anyways ... just my opinions but based on experience so good luck either way man ..
                      Fore Sale" My Ride "Best Time To Date 14.9 @ 94 MPH ...

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                        #12
                        well I'm liking ingalls less and less now. I'll stick with the adj ball joints, I'll get the ones that can adjust up to 3 degrees...though...I imagine I may still hit...possibly.

                        I thought the neuspeed setup I listed was their sport system...which consisted of springs and adjustable shocks...which are all yellow...DAH well...

                        Thanks again all for the advice!
                        ____

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by bcjammerx View Post
                          well I'm liking ingalls less and less now. I'll stick with the adj ball joints, I'll get the ones that can adjust up to 3 degrees...though...I imagine I may still hit...possibly.

                          I thought the neuspeed setup I listed was their sport system...which consisted of springs and adjustable shocks...which are all yellow...DAH well...

                          Thanks again all for the advice!
                          Yeah, but the springs are not made by Koni.
                          Gary A.K.A. Carter
                          [sig killed by photobucket]

                          Comment


                            #14
                            hey man, i was having the same debate as you, definatly go with the 1.5 - 3.0 adjustability... i have the illumina 5-way/matched 1.5'' drop springs and i can get -1 degree on both wheels before they are maxed out...
                            Last edited by GreenMadness; 09-02-2008, 05:33 PM.
                            Engines hate me... thats why they commit suicide

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                              #15
                              Negative camber is cool.

                              Toe however, is not.
                              wat?

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