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Ingalls balljoint camber kit hitting frame

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    Ingalls balljoint camber kit hitting frame

    So rumor was that the anchor type camber kit made the control arm hit the upper portion of the wheel well. Well, to be honest, I never experienced that with them before.

    My upper balljoints have been torn ever since I got my hands on the coupe. I thought it was finally time to switch it up; and what better way then to do it right with an ingalls balljoint camber kit.

    Well it works fine, but now it hits the frame of the car, basically the upper portion of the wheel well. Yes, the frame. I think it makes sense. It is hitting because now there is a nut on top of the control arm where it was supposed to be flush.

    So what steps do I take to make this possible. I also heard anything lower than a 2" drop will make my control arm hit with this setup. The driver's side hits more than the passenger. Mostly with dips and speedbumps...with the occasional potholes.

    I also know that when I was reinstalling the control arms, it had rubber bushings to flex when the car dips and raises. Does this have to be tightened at a certain degree? Only those who have actually messed with the control arms would know what I am talking about.

    My friend has an EK and he used to have this issue. Not sure about the camber kit but he said it almost made a hole in his frame. Not a big issue but I was wondering if anyone would suggest hammering the upper wheel well up a little. Wonder if it would hurt, which I doubt.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    This is how it looks now:



    See the nut and plate on top of the camber kit? That is non-existant with a stock upper balljoint. Any ideas? Also notice the bushings at the ends of the control arm. Is that supposed to be positioned and tightened at a certain degree?

    And my ride height:



    An old pic but still the same height.

    Any suggestions without removing the camber kit and raising the car?

    Thanks everyone for the input.

    -Ant


    Follow me on Instagram: @jdm_inspired_93

    1993 Accord EX
    2011 Accord EXL


    Click here for: eBaY iTeMs

    #2
    First time eh?

    Stock or not our arms have weired positions. The nut is the adjuster and it hits the upper fender well. Time for some grinding. My arms were hitting the upper fender when I was dumped back then.

    When I replaced my arms I tightend them to the angle as same as the old ones.
    Last edited by ExplodingCake; 10-07-2008, 01:20 AM.

    1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
    1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
    2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
    2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
    2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
    2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX






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      #3
      I have the SPC balljoint camber kit and have the same issue.
      Im pretty low in the front and when i hit a hard enough pothole the top adjusting nut hits the top frame.
      The only solution would be to raise the car up a little bit to eliminate the travel.
      Luckly for me we dont have alot of potholes where i live so im good.
      Now, whenever i go to NYC now thats a different story.

      If i were living in a place with alot of potholes i would have raised the car up already.

      here are a couple pics...





      Comment


        #4
        I had that exact camber kit, and same issue. I set my koni's too the stiffest setting, which reduced the contact. What you could do is set the camber at about 1 degree of negative camber to lessen the impact. I had mine for months hitting and never broke.

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          #5
          Originally posted by JaK FRoSTWhiTE View Post
          I have the SPC balljoint camber kit and have the same issue.
          Im pretty low in the front and when i hit a hard enough pothole the top adjusting nut hits the top frame.
          The only solution would be to raise the car up a little bit to eliminate the travel.
          Luckly for me we dont have alot of potholes where i live so im good.
          Now, whenever i go to NYC now thats a different story.

          If i were living in a place with alot of potholes i would have raised the car up already.

          here are a couple pics...




          Does the SPC have a nut on the top as well? Mine is huge.


          Follow me on Instagram: @jdm_inspired_93

          1993 Accord EX
          2011 Accord EXL


          Click here for: eBaY iTeMs

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            #6
            Originally posted by BB6-SH View Post
            I had that exact camber kit, and same issue. I set my koni's too the stiffest setting, which reduced the contact. What you could do is set the camber at about 1 degree of negative camber to lessen the impact. I had mine for months hitting and never broke.
            Oh man, I dont want to raise it. I dont even have a dampner knob. Its a Apex-i WS full coilover kit. I dont care if it breaks, I know it wont. I just want to hammer that upper fender well up.

            My anchor kit didnt do this. Did I just waste my freakin money??!


            Follow me on Instagram: @jdm_inspired_93

            1993 Accord EX
            2011 Accord EXL


            Click here for: eBaY iTeMs

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              #7
              Originally posted by jdm_inspired View Post
              Does the SPC have a nut on the top as well? Mine is huge.


              both SPC and Ingalls had the nut on top.. though SPC later had a design revision on the nuts which were a bit more flushed.. can someone w/ Ingalls confirm of the same revision..?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by casterX View Post
                both SPC and Ingalls had the nut on top.. though SPC later had a design revision on the nuts which were a bit more flushed.. can someone w/ Ingalls confirm of the same revision..?
                God I'm actually reconsidering getting stock upper ball joints and keeping my anchor camber kit. Even a wheel shop I went to referred me to camber ball joint kits.

                What a headache.


                Follow me on Instagram: @jdm_inspired_93

                1993 Accord EX
                2011 Accord EXL


                Click here for: eBaY iTeMs

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by jdm_inspired View Post
                  God I'm actually reconsidering getting stock upper ball joints and keeping my anchor camber kit. Even a wheel shop I went to referred me to camber ball joint kits.

                  What a headache.
                  The upper ball joint camber kits are better than the anchor ones IMO.

                  And yes, the SPC does have the nut on top.


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                    #10
                    Anyone else with advice?


                    Follow me on Instagram: @jdm_inspired_93

                    1993 Accord EX
                    2011 Accord EXL


                    Click here for: eBaY iTeMs

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                      #11
                      its soo ironic how someone else runs into the same problem at the same time, my mechanic just called and said my options are to raise it, or cut the fender.. i realy like my ride height, and i wanted to cut the wheel well.. but my mechanic says to take it to a bodyshop to be done.. is it hard to do? do i have to go to a body shop?

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by casterX View Post
                        both SPC and Ingalls had the nut on top.. though SPC later had a design revision on the nuts which were a bit more flushed.. can someone w/ Ingalls confirm of the same revision..?
                        Yes, they have two version of the SPC kit. The first had the huge nut on top. The newer version has a much more flush nut. I bought mine from Summit Racing.

                        Originally posted by JaK FRoSTWhiTE View Post
                        The upper ball joint camber kits are better than the anchor ones IMO.

                        And yes, the SPC does have the nut on top.
                        Yup, and holy twin suspension batman!



                        I was having banging issues as well. Raise it up a little or else bang (or cut) out the inner fender.


                        Originally posted by Maple50175
                        Oh here we go again. Maples other half.

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                          #13
                          i had this problem also with the EXACT same kit, mine ended up being the polyurathane radius rod bushings i installed backwards, messing with my caster, as soon as i switched them all the banging went away.

                          Mine was mostly driverside on dips, potholes, speedbumps and anytime i went in grass (i drive my accord through the infield of the racetrack i work at) now i could bottom out without hitting the frame

                          I guess this only helps if you have the poly radius bushings

                          im also running -1deg front and -1.5 rear with ~1.5'' tokico drop
                          Engines hate me... thats why they commit suicide

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                            #14
                            im having the same problem.
                            i think we need a DIY to solve this.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Tnwagn View Post
                              Yes, they have two version of the SPC kit. The first had the huge nut on top. The newer version has a much more flush nut. I bought mine from Summit Racing.



                              Yup, and holy twin suspension batman!



                              I was having banging issues as well. Raise it up a little or else bang (or cut) out the inner fender.
                              make that somewhat triplet suspension, ive got f2's and soon to be running an ingalls from ball joint kit as soon as i get new control arm bushings ordered as well

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                              Originally posted by deevergote
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