Back about 9000 miles ago, I slapped on a set of 205/50-17 Kumho Ecsta SPT tires. I was running my Eibach Pro-Kit springs and KYB AGX shocks.
6000 miles ago, I switched to a set of Neuspeed Race springs with the same shocks.
700 miles ago, the cords were showing on my Kumhos.
I asked cp[mike] how his SPC balljoints were serving him. After his approval of the product, I purchased a set off eBay for about 160 dollars shipped.
The procedure, highlighted in this DIY, is really very simple. I used only the tools I carry in my car, with the exception of a ball joint separator and a hydraulic press. The press can be foregone and a hammer can be used in its place.
The outside of the tire looked fine...
But the inside...
Simple tools...
Pressing
The procedure took about 3 hours, but that included cleaning every part I touched, taking pictures, and talking to the neighbors.
But who cares about that part. The product is the point of this thread.
The SPC ball joint is a beefy unit. Based on nothing other than impressive mass, I feel like I can place confidence in this product. It comes pre-greased and pretty well sealed up. The upper portion of the ball joint slides inwards/outwards along a slot that is pressed (or hammered) into the upper A arm. Once proper camber adjustment is achieved via the sliding mechanism, the top nut is torqued to 120 ft lbs.
The party piece of the unit is that top nut. SPC made the overall height of the nut very small in an attempt to lessen the fender banging caused by taller ball joints or anchor kits. The stud and nut, however, have a very high pitch count, making up for the flatness of the nut.
On to the product pictures:
Installation tip, the instructions suggest that the slot be aimed precisely outwards. Grab a square, line it up with the upper a-arm to chassis studs, and line the slot up with that.
It's very easy to be thrown off by the asymmetry of the a-arm.
I got an alignment the following day. 80 dollars later, my camber was right and my toe was corrected. Since then, I've driven about 1500 miles and I have yet to hit the fender once with the ball joint. Several hundred of those miles included 5 passengers and luggage. Granted I'm running the drop-killing AGX shocks, but I'm still very pleased.
I'm now running General Altimax HP tires in 215/45-17. I'll write a review for those once I have a little more experience with them. Zero signs of wear, though.
6000 miles ago, I switched to a set of Neuspeed Race springs with the same shocks.
700 miles ago, the cords were showing on my Kumhos.
I asked cp[mike] how his SPC balljoints were serving him. After his approval of the product, I purchased a set off eBay for about 160 dollars shipped.
The procedure, highlighted in this DIY, is really very simple. I used only the tools I carry in my car, with the exception of a ball joint separator and a hydraulic press. The press can be foregone and a hammer can be used in its place.
The outside of the tire looked fine...
But the inside...
Simple tools...
Pressing
The procedure took about 3 hours, but that included cleaning every part I touched, taking pictures, and talking to the neighbors.
But who cares about that part. The product is the point of this thread.
The SPC ball joint is a beefy unit. Based on nothing other than impressive mass, I feel like I can place confidence in this product. It comes pre-greased and pretty well sealed up. The upper portion of the ball joint slides inwards/outwards along a slot that is pressed (or hammered) into the upper A arm. Once proper camber adjustment is achieved via the sliding mechanism, the top nut is torqued to 120 ft lbs.
The party piece of the unit is that top nut. SPC made the overall height of the nut very small in an attempt to lessen the fender banging caused by taller ball joints or anchor kits. The stud and nut, however, have a very high pitch count, making up for the flatness of the nut.
On to the product pictures:
Installation tip, the instructions suggest that the slot be aimed precisely outwards. Grab a square, line it up with the upper a-arm to chassis studs, and line the slot up with that.
It's very easy to be thrown off by the asymmetry of the a-arm.
I got an alignment the following day. 80 dollars later, my camber was right and my toe was corrected. Since then, I've driven about 1500 miles and I have yet to hit the fender once with the ball joint. Several hundred of those miles included 5 passengers and luggage. Granted I'm running the drop-killing AGX shocks, but I'm still very pleased.
I'm now running General Altimax HP tires in 215/45-17. I'll write a review for those once I have a little more experience with them. Zero signs of wear, though.
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