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FYI: problem associated w/ camber kit install (upper control arm, fenderwell)

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  • 91cblx
    replied
    Any way to make balljoint camber kit clear inner fender w/o banging fender?

    It is not my uca, it is definitely the camber kit, so no reason to grind control arm. I am on the Koni Sp3 kit with Neuspeed Race springs on the middle perch, and I have the ingalls ball joint kit +1.75 - +3 set on +3 on both sides. My camber is perfect within spec(-0.7 on the left and -0.5) difference is probably because I need to replace my bushings. My camber kit hits on the inner fender If I hit hard enough, I am worried about breaking the stud on the ball joint. Any way I can fix this without banging the hell out of my inner fender? So-cal roads are not made for lowered cars. Just got an alignment, so don't exactly wanna change my ride height.

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  • GreenMadness
    replied
    Originally posted by nostringz View Post
    i had to set my front camber at -.8 to clear the fender. i wish i can get it to 0 but it does hit, and guys i know in colorado either don't have a camber kit or raise their car. turbo90accord suggested a dremel and sledge hammer.... WTF! i guess -.8 isnt bad, but it isn't good either.
    Yes it is. I run adjustable kits all they way around, with -1.5 deg and -1 deg of negative camber.

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  • nostringz
    replied
    i had to set my front camber at -.8 to clear the fender. i wish i can get it to 0 but it does hit, and guys i know in colorado either don't have a camber kit or raise their car. turbo90accord suggested a dremel and sledge hammer.... WTF! i guess -.8 isnt bad, but it isn't good either.

    Leave a comment:


  • GreenMadness
    replied
    i had installed poly radius rod bushing backwards then correctly oriented them, but still had the smacking ball joint, so with my bumper off i again started cranking on the radius rods and wouldn't ya know that the smacking stopped, i had about 2-3 turns on each nut to really pull them forward. so it was a caster problem for me.

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  • 91@CCORD74
    replied
    Originally posted by tig3rpaw View Post
    i'm tellin yall! is on our cb7 ONLY! is gonna hit no matter what! cause of the inside fender is just to low. and if we sittin low is gonna bang. or not we gonna raise it up, wit the nasty wheel gap.
    Get 86 Civic Control Arms, They are shorter...Norm Tal Bot?

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  • tig3rpaw
    replied
    SPC balljoints?

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  • tig3rpaw
    replied
    i'm tellin yall! is on our cb7 ONLY! is gonna hit no matter what! cause of the inside fender is just to low. and if we sittin low is gonna bang. or not we gonna raise it up, wit the nasty wheel gap.

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  • GreenMadness
    replied
    i think caster may be the underlying cause, everytime you change the static suspension design you need to take into account the dynamic suspension system (moving)... i used polyurathane radius rod bushings which are larger than oem, and i KNOW they pushed my wheel back, causeing the suspension system to stand "straight up" making it seem 'taller' than if it was leaning.

    so when everything starts flexing and moving it just dosn't quite work.

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  • arcadiacb7
    replied
    Just to make a suggestion and possibly help me out. I was planning on running the adjustable anchor bolts and spc adjustable ball joints. I am dropped on Tein basic dampers so the top of my tire is right at the bottom of my fender. I have read that the ingalls ball joints hit the inner fender with the lock nut. But the spc's have a thinner lock nut, and my buddy has a civic with the spc's and the same drop and his arms don't hit. If i can get my arms moved out with the anchor bolts to -1.5 degrees then the adjustable ball joints would get me to zero if that is what i desired but i want to be at -0.75 degrees.

    This would help to eliminate and fender slamming and make it possible to properly set camber on ours slammed cb7s.

    Also a pro to the adjustable anchor bolts is caster adjustment is possible. It is very minor but it can get +- 0.5 degrees. Which is usually all i ever need to get a car in spec or equal on both sides when i do alignments on cb7s.

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  • GreenMadness
    replied
    umm i haven't had any problems with the working of the ball joint. Although getting them on could have been easier, as they dont really press on, and since the orientation matters if it twists at all the ball joint dosn't pivot correctly.... this is a problem every time you adjust it.

    And of course the DENT in the upper wheel well from hitting bumps... although i must say it mainly only smacks if i go off road (race track infields) or rail road tracks and any other sudden change in road surface.... but thats still at least once a week if not more.

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  • westsideaccord
    replied
    so who all is running the adjustable ball joint type? How do they work, noise, etc? cd5's wagons cb series along with cd series all have this "problem"

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  • tig3rpaw
    replied
    i think just ours! i know thats a fact.

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  • b3nsonx
    replied
    does this only happen with cb7's?
    or does it also happen to other gen accords?
    how about other hondas like civics, integras, rsxs, and preludes?

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  • tig3rpaw
    replied
    thanks for the pics 203cree. thats the one i was tryin to put up. the other one is on chassistech.com. is yellow. let us know will this one well work?

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  • GreenMadness
    replied
    Yep, it actually dosn't even look like a factory arm, it looks like a cheaper arm with the cheap ball joint knocked out and a adjustable one put in. I agree that is probably wont solve the problem... you would need an a-arm with a customised slider that sits under the control arm, not above it.

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