Ok. So, browsing around, I'm seeing a few requests for DIY brake... stuff. Since I'm in the process of tackling this now, and I DEFINITELY qualify as DIY... here goes. Oh and if you came to flame, piss off. This is amateur work, on a monday night with NO BEER. It's got various attempted jokes thrown in. It's not funny though, I already know that. I'm hoping by learning from my ... discoveries, I can save everyone else a little trouble.
Subject is a 1992 Accord EX-R, approx 180k KMS on it, with a brake rebuild completed by a local shop less then a year ago. I'm doing it again to get a feel for it, to enjoy working on the car, and to have fun. Plus better to do it before shit seizes on you, right?
So. to begin... lets look at the required tools. I've got a hammer (you'll see...) 14mm box wrench, 17mm socket, lubricant (brake specific is best), ReleaseAll, brake cleaner (find ABS sensor safe, if at all possible), tire iron and of course various adapters for tuner lugs and lock nuts. Not pictured: bandaids, 2x500w floodlights, hand cleaner, latex gloves, jack.
Next... a look at the subject:
1st REAL step... take the wheel off. If you've got after market rims, keep an eye on your centering ring..., you don't want to end up without it come re-assembly... Check to see that the rotor spins relatively freely with the car in neutral (WITHOUT TOUCHING THE BRAKE), because if it's warped to any significant degree, stop here. You're going to waste 40 minutes and you need new rotor.
Next, loosen but don't completely remove the two 14mm retaining bolts on the sliders. Make them loose enough that you can undo them the rest of the way by hand, but you don't want the whole assembly coming apart just yet.
At this point, if you're half as dumb as me, while trying to remove the two 17mm bolts from the back of the caliper, you'll stab yourself in the finger with a screwdriver. You had to use the screwdriver because the nut got stuck in the socket... Brilliant idea, wasn't it. Fortunately this post retains it's PG-13 rating, as the camera whitebalanced most ot the blood out
I'm victorioius though, notice the bolt separated from the socket!!! Find a small screwdriver, tap the nut out. Wish I'd thought of that beFORE I was bleeding inside a latex glove
Back to business. With the 2x14mm bolts loosened, and now the two $#*&king 17mm bolts off, you'll probably need to bring the hammer into play. Remembering that if you break anything you're out of luck and a lot of money. tap the top and bottom inner edges of the caliper towards the bumper. This will break the caliper free, but be warned. It's heavy. You should get a jackstand ready to support it, as you don't want to risk breaking the flex line to the caliper...
Looking at the date stamps, I only lost 10 minutes to noticing I was bleeding, patching the hole in my finger, changing my gloves, and taking pictures. Not too shabby. Anywho... next, we loosen those 14mm bolts that we still have in the back of the sliders. Be prepared for the WHOLE THING TO FALL APART.
Subject is a 1992 Accord EX-R, approx 180k KMS on it, with a brake rebuild completed by a local shop less then a year ago. I'm doing it again to get a feel for it, to enjoy working on the car, and to have fun. Plus better to do it before shit seizes on you, right?
So. to begin... lets look at the required tools. I've got a hammer (you'll see...) 14mm box wrench, 17mm socket, lubricant (brake specific is best), ReleaseAll, brake cleaner (find ABS sensor safe, if at all possible), tire iron and of course various adapters for tuner lugs and lock nuts. Not pictured: bandaids, 2x500w floodlights, hand cleaner, latex gloves, jack.
Next... a look at the subject:
1st REAL step... take the wheel off. If you've got after market rims, keep an eye on your centering ring..., you don't want to end up without it come re-assembly... Check to see that the rotor spins relatively freely with the car in neutral (WITHOUT TOUCHING THE BRAKE), because if it's warped to any significant degree, stop here. You're going to waste 40 minutes and you need new rotor.
Next, loosen but don't completely remove the two 14mm retaining bolts on the sliders. Make them loose enough that you can undo them the rest of the way by hand, but you don't want the whole assembly coming apart just yet.
At this point, if you're half as dumb as me, while trying to remove the two 17mm bolts from the back of the caliper, you'll stab yourself in the finger with a screwdriver. You had to use the screwdriver because the nut got stuck in the socket... Brilliant idea, wasn't it. Fortunately this post retains it's PG-13 rating, as the camera whitebalanced most ot the blood out
I'm victorioius though, notice the bolt separated from the socket!!! Find a small screwdriver, tap the nut out. Wish I'd thought of that beFORE I was bleeding inside a latex glove Back to business. With the 2x14mm bolts loosened, and now the two $#*&king 17mm bolts off, you'll probably need to bring the hammer into play. Remembering that if you break anything you're out of luck and a lot of money. tap the top and bottom inner edges of the caliper towards the bumper. This will break the caliper free, but be warned. It's heavy. You should get a jackstand ready to support it, as you don't want to risk breaking the flex line to the caliper...
Looking at the date stamps, I only lost 10 minutes to noticing I was bleeding, patching the hole in my finger, changing my gloves, and taking pictures. Not too shabby. Anywho... next, we loosen those 14mm bolts that we still have in the back of the sliders. Be prepared for the WHOLE THING TO FALL APART.
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