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    11.1" rotor (HOR) upgrade questions

    I got some Acura CL calipers for 11.1" rotor upgrade.

    The calipers are NISSIN, the stock ones are Akebono. Do I have to change master cylinder, brake lines or other parts for them to work?

    I'm staying hub over rotor for now, will the 97 CL 3.0 rotors bolt up directly?
    How about the CB wagon, or CD5 v6 rotors? Direct bolt up to stock spindle?
    Does the caliper bracket bolt up directly?

    If they are direct bolt up, can I change them without getting new wheel bearings?

    That's a lot of questions, any help would be appreciated.

    #2
    the calipers will work but you will need new pads.
    COUPE K24

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      #3
      Thanks
      For sure, I need pads now,
      so I figured I'd go ahead and do the upgrade.

      Which rotors can I use without having to get anything else?

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        #4
        pretty sure you can use cb9/ce1 rotors with the stock spindle. also, there really isnt any need to change the caliper. pretty sure the wagons use the same sedan caliper.
        COUPE K24

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          #5
          Oh for real?
          with the 11 inch rotor?
          I didn't know that, thanks

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            #6
            Originally posted by '93CB7Ex View Post
            pretty sure you can use cb9/ce1 rotors with the stock spindle. also, there really isnt any need to change the caliper. pretty sure the wagons use the same sedan caliper.
            Wagons use a much larger caliper in the front.

            To the OP, I think you can use 91-97 rotors with the stock sedan/coupe knuckle/etc.. Might as well get new wheel bearings while it's apart.
            Originally posted by deevergote
            These cars will never be the best at anything, but they're pretty damn good at everything.

            92ex CB7<-SOLD 93ex CB9shiftingshift73C10

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              #7
              OP....

              if you're going to do the swap, make sure you do this:

              you can do the swap from the Vigor. but you have to get Vigor rotors.

              if you do the CB9 Wagon, make sure you get CB9 rotors.

              if you do the Legend swap, make sure you get the Legend rotors.

              someone correct me if im wrong but the Vigor/Legend rotors might be the same. but the CB9 rotors have a different offset. so they sit out further than the Vigor/Legend rotors. thus calipers from CB9 will NOT work with the Vigor/Legend rotors and vise versa.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by mtnbikaah View Post
                Wagons use a much larger caliper in the front.

                To the OP, I think you can use 91-97 rotors with the stock sedan/coupe knuckle/etc.. Might as well get new wheel bearings while it's apart.
                Thanks, I figured the wagon caliper would be bigger for the bigger rotor curve, didnt want to offend the man trying to help me

                The wheel bearings aren't showing signs of going bad, but it does make sense to just change them too. Thanks for the info

                Originally posted by Shadow1 View Post
                OP....

                if you're going to do the swap, make sure you do this:

                you can do the swap from the Vigor. but you have to get Vigor rotors.

                if you do the CB9 Wagon, make sure you get CB9 rotors.

                if you do the Legend swap, make sure you get the Legend rotors.

                someone correct me if im wrong but the Vigor/Legend rotors might be the same. but the CB9 rotors have a different offset. so they sit out further than the Vigor/Legend rotors. thus calipers from CB9 will NOT work with the Vigor/Legend rotors and vise versa.
                Thanks man, I have CL calipers, with 25 T on the bracket, can I use the wagon rotors? I think they are 25T as well

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Shadow1 View Post
                  OP....

                  if you're going to do the swap, make sure you do this:

                  you can do the swap from the Vigor. but you have to get Vigor rotors.

                  if you do the CB9 Wagon, make sure you get CB9 rotors.

                  if you do the Legend swap, make sure you get the Legend rotors.

                  someone correct me if im wrong but the Vigor/Legend rotors might be the same. but the CB9 rotors have a different offset. so they sit out further than the Vigor/Legend rotors. thus calipers from CB9 will NOT work with the Vigor/Legend rotors and vise versa.
                  But I HATE your sig!
                  What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                  You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                  Retro!

                  Hater

                  I love nooBs...They make me look good

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                    #10
                    This information is posted so many times on here, but I'll clarify some more. All of the aforementioned calipers are the same. They're all larger-piston Nissins than the Nissins or Akebonos that came on these cars. You can use any of the rotors listed previously as long as the caliper bracket matches. The "23" or "25" designates the width of the rotor in millimeters. The appropriate bracket will align the caliper into the proper position based on the centerline of the rotor thickness. In fact, the rotor and caliper bracket are really the only things that need to match. The calipers can be the large single pistons or the dual-piston Legend calipers. Either will work.

                    All that's left to decide is whether you want 23mm-thick rotors or 25-mm thick rotors. Then buy the appropriate caliper brackets and you're set.
                    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                      This information is posted so many times on here, but I'll clarify some more. All of the aforementioned calipers are the same. They're all larger-piston Nissins than the Nissins or Akebonos that came on these cars. You can use any of the rotors listed previously as long as the caliper bracket matches. The "23" or "25" designates the width of the rotor in millimeters. The appropriate bracket will align the caliper into the proper position based on the centerline of the rotor thickness. In fact, the rotor and caliper bracket are really the only things that need to match. The calipers can be the large single pistons or the dual-piston Legend calipers. Either will work.

                      All that's left to decide is whether you want 23mm-thick rotors or 25-mm thick rotors. Then buy the appropriate caliper brackets and you're set.
                      Thanks for clearing that up, as well as '93CB7ex, mtnbikaah and Shadow1.
                      I did read a lot of info on it here, but brakes are not something I want to do trial and error with.
                      I'm going to go with the CL calipers I already have, 25mm bracket and CB9 rotors.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ok, Im just getting around to doing this, because I'm trying to clear out all the parts laying around. Forgive me if I'm too slow on this , but brakes make me a little nervous. So far I have:

                        1997 Acura CL 3.0 calipers : sitting for 1.5 years
                        1997 Acura CL 3.0 25mm bracket
                        1997 Acura CL 3.0, 25mm rotors : en route
                        1997 Acura CL 3.0 brake pads : en route


                        (Please tell me if any of this won't line up with my 93 LX)

                        I see why it's a good idea to change the hub and bearing at the same time, but I might get a pair of nice sneakers instead. Still undecided.

                        My question:
                        I've seen posts and youtube videos where they say: remove entire knuckle, put in extended bolts, and bang out the bearing with a hammer. But I came across this DIY : http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-Rotor-Upgrade

                        See how he doesn't remove the knuckle? (step 4) Is this a good enough way to do it?

                        It looks like he changed his rotors before, is that why he could do it this way?
                        Last edited by DCB7; 02-11-2015, 06:27 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          He may have had it off before; I usually clean up the bore in the knuckle and apply a little anti-seize to make it easier the next time. For the amount of effort it has taken to get some of mine apart, I'm not sure wedging a screwdriver in there would be enough. Getting to the bolts can be a bear as well. Best case I've done is to leave the upper ball joint attached, undo the lower and the tie rod, then slip the axle out of the way to get easy access to the bolts and permits the use of a torque wrench with a straight socket/extension. Honda now has replacement bolts with a larger washer/hex head making them easier to wrench.
                          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                            He may have had it off before; I usually clean up the bore in the knuckle and apply a little anti-seize to make it easier the next time. For the amount of effort it has taken to get some of mine apart, I'm not sure wedging a screwdriver in there would be enough. Getting to the bolts can be a bear as well. Best case I've done is to leave the upper ball joint attached, undo the lower and the tie rod, then slip the axle out of the way to get easy access to the bolts and permits the use of a torque wrench with a straight socket/extension. Honda now has replacement bolts with a larger washer/hex head making them easier to wrench.
                            Thanks, I'm going to clean mine out as well. I would just do it his way, if it won't damage the bearing, but sounds like it's basically impossible for a first time rotor change. I'll give it a few taps to test it first. I wanted to avoid damaging the lower/upper ball joints removing the knuckle. I'm not sure, is that likely to happen? or is the ball joint hard to damage?

                            If I have to change the bearing, do I need a special tool to remove it from the hub?, or can I knock it out, and in with a rubber mallet or something like that?

                            edit: do I need one of these? :http://www.redmoonbay.com/3-Jaw-Pilo...r.html?ref=gmc
                            Last edited by DCB7; 02-11-2015, 07:03 PM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              OEM upper ball joint is part of the upper control arm. Lower ball joint is pressed into the knuckle.

                              The inner bearing race is pressed on to the hub. I have a 12 ton press to push the bearing off the hub, but the inner race is actually two pieces and only 1/2 of it comes off with the press. I then use a cutoff wheel to cut a deep slot in the remaining half of the inner race, then put a thick chisel in the slot, then whack it hard with a hammer. This will usually crack the race and allow it to be removed from the hub. The hub can then be pressed into the new bearing.
                              90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                              08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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