Calling all K-swapped CB7 owners, i need swap advice

[drummersteve7]

That guy runs at my track.
Unfortunately his last pass hit the wall.
Breaking the rear end. Not sure if he's
Gunna rebuild.

[Mishakol129]

That guy runs at my track.
Unfortunately his last pass hit the wall.
Breaking the rear end. Not sure if he's
Gunna rebuild.

He's using the stock distributor with 800 hp, maybe that's why he crashed.

[drummersteve7]

Are you serious right now?
That's either a disrespectful or
Ignorant comment.
Dudes been running setup for like 5 years,
Non issues.

Back on topic.... K series...

[Dy2*STR33T-KING]

A lot of you are looking at this the wrong way by throwing out prices on the k24a2. Why would you buy that engine? Its rated at 200hp and 166tq. The k24a4 is way cheaper and is rated 160hp and 162tq. The only real difference in the motor is the head and ecu. If your going with a k swap you need kpro anyeay so the ecu part is taken care of. Now you can get the k24a2 head OR swap the k20a2 head and the head can be bought for cheap. Mounts and wiring can be bought so the only issue is time and dedication. I picked up a k24a4 for $200 because it knocked. I plan on building a k series anyway so it was a No brainer. The only thing that I know is expensive is the 6speed transmission. Anywhere from 1200-1500 find someone parting out an rsx or tsx and you might get it cheaper.

It's worth it because there are so many options for the engine and they are tanks. Many people running around with all stock internal k24a2 motors with 600whp. imo they are Honda's best engine.

[toycar]

if he can do it so can i, it may take a while but it can be done. only thing holding the few 600whp guys back is transmissions believe it or not. have you ever noticed the falling out of boost from the 1sec gear changes and the fact that the ratio's put it out of the camshafts powerband when they do get the next gear. ive told them before T2W4, 4.062 accord FD, have liberty face plate the gears for dog engagement and you'll see those low 11sec cb7's with 600whp turn into low 10sec cb7's. but now that im , back to k-series swaps, the k-series would have better aftermarket support and 1000whp could be acheived easier which could put a cb7 in the high 8sec range with the right suspension and gearing.

Yeah I have noticed the issues and have a few theories as well on the 10 second pass that is lacking on this chassis.

Its totally doable. Its just not an easy path by any means, and there are lots of other chassis that do it easier/better.


I agree with you though that it can and will be done at some point. The things that need to change are fairly large issues to resolve though. Its going to cost some coin to get there.

[jdm92_accorn]

nobody said it was easy, they've simply stated impossible. the trans issues can be resolved for less than 3k. as much money as the 11sec cars have in their builds it seems a waste not to go the trans route i previously stated. as far as easier/better chassis the eg/ef chassis is lighter not better, it's actually quite frail and bad for high hp and torque, when compared to the bb/cb chassis. looking back a 800whp eg is roughly a low 9sec car as is a 800whp bb chassis which weighs in at roughly 500-600lbs heavier with the same setup. why is it capable of the same times with more weight? looking at the cb7 chassis directly, n/a i have managed a 13.791@100.1mph with a 1.95 60ft with an open diff and no traction bar weighing in at almost 2900lbs. this is done with 206whp/191wtq on a superflow dyno. why is it i can trap these time with an inferior chassis? i apologize for sounding condescending, it is not meant that way. i think a 800whp k-series powered cb7 could very easily hit the low 9sec range with interior in tact. 1000whp can be had and streetable, not dd, just for insurance on running low 9's.

[toycar]

nobody said it was easy, they've simply stated impossible. the trans issues can be resolved for less than 3k. as much money as the 11sec cars have in their builds it seems a waste not to go the trans route i previously stated. as far as easier/better chassis the eg/ef chassis is lighter not better, it's actually quite frail and bad for high hp and torque, when compared to the bb/cb chassis. looking back a 800whp eg is roughly a low 9sec car as is a 800whp bb chassis which weighs in at roughly 500-600lbs heavier with the same setup. why is it capable of the same times with more weight? looking at the cb7 chassis directly, n/a i have managed a 13.791@100.1mph with a 1.95 60ft with an open diff and no traction bar weighing in at almost 2900lbs. this is done with 206whp/191wtq on a superflow dyno. why is it i can trap these time with an inferior chassis? i apologize for sounding condescending, it is not meant that way. i think a 800whp k-series powered cb7 could very easily hit the low 9sec range with interior in tact. 1000whp can be had and streetable, not dd, just for insurance on running low 9's.

well, to put it short its all about how much power you are making and when and how much weight that power has to move.

Why is it that FWD dsm's with an OEM turbo making like 250-280whp can pull a 10.xx time? Well, weighing in at 2055lbs with driver sure makes a difference thats for sure.


How much power, when, and how much work is that power doing. You'll get a better 60' times easier on a lower power setup, but you'll have better trap speeds making more power.

I mean, .3-.5 difference in reaction time watching the tree is possible. Lots of variables come to play here.


This chassis weighs so much that its hard to move that much weight. I mean the difference in weight alone can be attributed to what, almost a second difference in times if the setups were exactly identical.


How much weight can you cut from this pig before you have to make power to accomodate?


The more power you make, harder it is to get planted, the longer it takes to make power etc etc.


You know the balancing act. Its going to be a difficult scenario to workout to get this car pulling 10's.

[GenDBlade]

Run ITBs on the Fseries. Hopefully ill be doing that soon, and it'd be cool not to be the only one rocking that setup(as far as i know). With a proper tune you wont decrease THAT much in mpg :P.

[drummersteve7]

I believe he said daily driver, in which no thank you on itbs.

hes not even really looking for boost, just a common k swap to be mre efficient than a h swap.

we just all go off the chain when we hear k swap, mainly boost it.

but if I recall his intention is to have a good gas mileage vehicle for daily driving.

[jdm92_accorn]

that was the original plan but like i stated before, the k-series does have much better provisions for increased mpg with the same power as an h-series of f-series. all out power for all out power the highest n/a hp F-series sohc is in the low 400whp range, the highest output h22 is or was in the low 400whp range and the highest k-series is in the low 400whp range aswell. they all seem to be fairly matched when you are looking at it from a power aspect. now lets take it down a notch to say 250whp. all three engine series can do it, even b-series. but lets look at the mpg difference between a 250whp B,F,H,& K series. i promise the k-series with do much better even with all engines having a proper tune. the way i see it is 6k can be a 250whp F,H or K. difference is the K-series has a timing chain, coil on plug, variable intake cam phasing and variable lift. with less maintenence needed and maintenence parts easier to change, ie external water pump and external timing chain tesioner, it will pay for itself in money saved on services and advil quite quickly, lol. honestly with electric power steering and electric water pump setups you can improve gas mileage even further. with these few parts adding less than 1k to the swap and contributing another 3-4mpg thats 51-68mi per tank and when you travel as much as i do that saves a bunch of money in a years time.

[drummersteve7]

How far do you travel? I see between 80 to 100 miles a day.

[jdm92_accorn]

a little over 530miles a week for me.

[XCRN]

If you are serious about the K, it seems like you are more attracted about the MPG and it is also a swap I have looked into myself and I like the K24 stock in the 2003+ Accord. Good power on its own and nice gas mileage and if you plan on keeping the CB for 20 more years it is not a bad way to go, but for your toy car boost that monster F22, I am sure that block can handle it and get the other boost supporting parts.

[jdm92_accorn]

i will be going boost with the dx, the lx will remain a dd and n/a though.

[XCRN]

K swap the LX but leave it for the most part untouched. Maybe a screaming VTEC head swap but keep it simple.