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****Swap Tips & Truths****

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    ****Swap Tips & Truths****

    Before i start Typing, I know there is a thread over Here on Swap FAQ, but this is a thread on different tips to get done with your swap easier,.

    I would also Like to have other's people experiences on different problem they ran into and how they solved them so we can make it easier on the n00bs

    Here is what i would do if i could do the swap all over again:

    -If you dont have good tools, please get at least a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 3/8" drive socket set.I lost alot of my 3/8" sockets so i had to use my 1/4" ratchet/socket set 3/8" would make unbolting everything out of the engine WAY easier.

    -There are two seals were the axles connect to the tranny.Get them BEFORE you even pull the axles out, because if you are like me, you will rip them tryind to get the axles loose.Reason i say get them now is because advance auto doesnt have them and you will most likely have to wait for the dealer to order them.I think i paid like $9 but they held my swap back 1 week.

    -Every time you unbolt a bolt, screw it back on the thread so you dont loose them(common sense )

    -For F22b DOHC swap: (dont know if it aplies to h22)if yo are planning on using A/C,swap your A/C bracket from you f22a to your f22b when its out of the car.I'm the dumbass that forgat about it.When its in the car its a bitch.

    -(f22b Dohc)if you are planning on keep P/S, use the f22a P/S braket and pump.Only 2 bolts will bolt up, and you have two add washers on the bottome one,to "even" it out.(i'll get pix soon)

    -P/S Belt:if you are using the f22a bracket on the f22B head,youy will need a belt 2" bigger.The stock one is too small and it wont fit for shit.Advance auto will most likely carry them. EDIT:try to get a 1.75" instead, 2" and the pump hose will hit the hood.

    -Please do research on external/internal coil modifications(to long for me to start typing what needs to be done)

    -If the engine is JDM,the fuel line will most likely connect on the opposite side of teh fuel rail as to your USDM motor,Swap out your old fuel rail to your new engine.

    -Fuel injectors-Hers what held me up for another 3 days.2 of my f22b injectors were clogged.Just use your f22a6 ones since you know the fuckers worked when you pulled them out of the car.

    -Always have the battery keep charging when you are trying to start the car but it wont fire.Week batteries can keep a car from starting.

    -Don't forget the ground wire under the thermostat housing

    -make sure you remove the side engine mount and transmission mount OUT of the engine and tranny.Yes, my dumbass didnt and it made taking the engine out a complete bitch.

    -If you plan on getting an after market flywheel, make sure the fuckers have timing marks on them.I love my 12lbs XTD, but no timing marks+new dizzy=timing not perfect.I heard ACT includes timiong marks.

    -The throttle cable will most likely be tight.Heres how we modified the bracket.



    We just drilled two holes more to the right.

    Thats all i can think of right now.I'm sure i can think of more later.Please include your own thoughts/tips on your personal swaps.I'll try to get more pix.

    Remember, All of my tips are from an f22b DOHC swap.Some of them might not be true for an h22 swap.

    ILBB
    Last edited by Ilikebigbutts; 01-23-2006, 11:19 AM.
    People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

    Mk3 Supra Member #2

    Originally posted by DarkShadow707
    The world needs to be reset.

    #2
    Great Thread

    Do the swap by yourself. Dont let a so called specialist fuck your shit up. Its so easy..swaps are easy..after seeing what had to be done i slapped myself cuz i shouldve done it myself.People are only looking for money..and in ym case dude who did my swap basically screwed me over...fucked up vaccum lines...broken master cylinder..broken sensors...didnt reuse accord bracket or sensors etc and charged me extra 60 bucks to wire vtec....fuck that get a manual reasearch do it yourself

    Have money. Your motor may cost 1700-2000 but i can almost gurantee your whole swap will cost more than that...

    Be prepatred for anything and everything to goi wrong..and prepare for downtime. Id prefer to do a swap on a long school vacation if your in school..or in the summer..or if you can afford a few weeks w/o your car

    Check your motor over when its shipped..check the oil pan, sensors, EVERYTHING
    if your removing the ac...remove it right.. dont cut it and do a sloppy job like the specialist did to mine....

    Comment


      #3
      Nice list!

      Originally posted by Ilikebigbutts
      ... -There are two seals were the axles connect to the tranny. Get them BEFORE you even pull the axles out, because if you are like me, you will rip them tryind to get the axles loose. ...
      nOOb alert: I have a clarification question. Is this because you re-used your tranny? Also, I'd imagine if you were swapping in a new tranny you might still want new seals so that you don't assume the ones already there are good when they might not be?
      Last edited by deckeda; 11-03-2005, 03:26 PM. Reason: friggin spelling
      >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by deckeda
        nOOn alert: I have a clarification question. Is this because you re-used your tranny? Also, I'd imagine if you were swapping in a new tranny you might still want new seals so that you don't assume the ones already there are good when they might not be?
        Yes, i did reuse my tranny.And yes, You should replace everyseal you can no matter if you are reusing your tranny or getting a new one.Seals are cheap but they can fuck your shit up if they leak, so jsut replace every one you can.

        DhN-you seem pretty pissed off at the "professional" who put your motor in, but i would tell the same thing to every n00b.Motor swaps are NOT hard.Everything is possible.The best thing you can do is buy a damn manual for your car.Seriously, reading the engine removal procedure in my manual is what got me modivated for my swap.

        So for the last time,Swaps Are NOT hard at all,they are just way more time consuming that wjhat most people would think.Take it from me, a 16 year old punk.

        ILBB
        Last edited by Ilikebigbutts; 10-21-2005, 03:24 PM.
        People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

        Mk3 Supra Member #2

        Originally posted by DarkShadow707
        The world needs to be reset.

        Comment


          #5
          -Axle nut bolts.These are tricky.I will tell you right now,if you go to advance auto parts and buy one of their Amco-cheapo 24" breaker bars you are guaranteed to get pissed of when you break 3 of them.Thank god for liftime warranties.To save you Money,trouble,and time go to sears and get one of their 3/4"(yes 3/4") drive slider bars and a 1 7/16"-3/4" drive socket.Then go to home depot and pick up a 6ft long pipe.Pix for referance:





          And heres what heppens to the Amco-cheapo 24" breaker bars:

          People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

          Mk3 Supra Member #2

          Originally posted by DarkShadow707
          The world needs to be reset.

          Comment


            #6
            gonna bump this thread up, very useful info i could use.
            i dont know if you guys can answer this but im putting in a usdm engine from the factory myself. since it isnt professionally done nor do i have certification or bullshit like that. would smog care? because i live in california...
            i know it isnt a jdm motor but the 90-91's also didnt come with f22a6's so what happens if they run the serial number on the motor and it doesnt match my orignal one?
            I <3 G60.

            0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

            Comment


              #7
              i doubt they would.There are so many people doing you would of heard about it by now.As long as emissions pass you should be ok.

              Another tip,make sure your firing order is right.I had it wrong and my shit idled rough and when it would warm up it would back fire and stall out.

              Firing order:

              34
              12


              ILBB
              People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

              Mk3 Supra Member #2

              Originally posted by DarkShadow707
              The world needs to be reset.

              Comment


                #8
                Those are pretty much the same things I ran into when doing my H22A swap... Make sure you have the right tools, and don't go out and buy cheapies. I can't stress that enough.

                Teh only wiring issues I ran into were that not all of the ECU pins are the same size. Some are larger than others. This is the first time i've attempted anything wiring related and was pretty pissed off after I had my VTEC harness all wrapped up and went to plug the pins into the existing plugs and some of them wouldn't fit. Make sure you have spare plugs also I broke like three of them. Another good tip is to take the TPS off. They are easy to break especially when most of the time when you're putting the motor back in it sits right against the firewall. I broke the TPS taking the F22 out. One of my sensors broke off when I was plugging the engine harness onto the H22 also, so be prepared for lots of little shit to go wrong. It does and it will set you back. Especially when using junkyard or parts off of an old parts car. Like last week I was all ready to get my car running and I find out that the clutch isn't pumping up while we are trying to bleed it. I take the slave cylinder off and it's rusted to shit inside and is stuck. Yesterday got a new slave and now I think the master cylinder is out so that'll be here today. You might as well replace the timing belt water pump and all oil seals while it is out. It's way easier to do and you will have peace of mind when they are all replaced. I can't really think of anything else. If I do I'll come back and add it.
                Last edited by tweeaks; 11-03-2005, 11:56 AM.


                Member's Ride

                Comment


                  #9
                  -Don't forget the ground wire under the thermostat housing




                  you know....... i almost bought a new harness until wikked said something about it.... couldn't figure it out for 3 days..


                  SOLD!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    thanx for contributing to the thread guys.

                    Tweeaks, you make A really good point with the tps.I was lucky enough to realise that it could break so i took it off when i was puting the engine back in.The manifold ended up scraping against the firewall alot so i was lucky.

                    ILBB
                    People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

                    Mk3 Supra Member #2

                    Originally posted by DarkShadow707
                    The world needs to be reset.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yeah I noticed on my H22 it was taken off and tucked under the intake manifold, so I didn't worry too much about breaking the old one becasue I have a couple laying around. Putting the motor back in by yourself will be a pain in the ass becasue of the angle it needs to go in, so try and have another person available to help at least for that. Make sure you order all the parts you need beforehand, that set me back like another week.....


                      Member's Ride

                      Comment


                        #12
                        yup yoiu deffinatly need more than one person taking the engine out and in.Especially with my weak ass i'm glad my dad was there and he basicly wrestled the engine in.

                        ILBB
                        People I have dealt with in this board- Smseagren83,d112crzy, Idrivealude, aznpnoyracer, wed3k, dinertime, HF22T, MRX, Dc2lewd, yeamans17, bruno8747, tn_accords, king james, starchland, yardiexd40

                        Mk3 Supra Member #2

                        Originally posted by DarkShadow707
                        The world needs to be reset.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          #1 tip MARK SHIT! It's so simple to bust out the bottle of white out and just mark shit. It'll save alot of headache.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 91accordwagon
                            #1 tip MARK SHIT! It's so simple to bust out the bottle of white out and just mark shit. It'll save alot of headache.
                            AMEN! That saved me from sooo many headaces.

                            Great thread guys. BUMP!
                            2DAO (2 Door Accord Owner)
                            JDM H22 DOHC 200/161 2.2L
                            My members ride: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=20385

                            Comment


                              #15
                              On my swap I decided to do the H23 tensioner conversion, but I decided that after the motor was in. Would of been alot easier with the motor out, also doing the t-belt real easy insurance with the motor out. I also learned the technique off walking away and counting to 10, instead of chucking wrenches across the garage.
                              Last edited by xlr857; 11-05-2005, 02:36 PM.

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