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the plugs that came with the engine had the same red dust on them. this plug is from a new set of NGKs that i put in. and yea im still using the wires that came with the motor. ill be getting a new set of NGK ones soon anyway. no idea what the red dust is.
It maybe just residue from the old plug being in there...the plug looks fine pull it out again later on done the road....that motor is looking good in there also!!!Good job man!!
Yeah, that plug looks fine. Anyway, when you get your MRX ECU, ask him to lower the IAB point to 4500 (stock is 4800). Having them open helps your power from 3500 and up, but I went with 4500 so they'd be closed on the highway (kills your milage)
Originally posted by DoctorCipher
...the beginner forum was created to provide a place for all the stupid ass questions to pile up and fester, kind of like huge globs of mayonnaise left in the sun for weeks at a time.
yea that is a good idea with having the IABs open at 4500rpm. right now they seem to kick in at about 5000rpms, maybe because its a auto ecu 4500 seems like a good spot, not too early and not late. i know its no vtec but you can definetally feel them opening up.
Nice! I always wanted to ride in a car with that motor to fell how much diff to stock.
My whips!
97 eliteS 50cc sold
90 CB coupe lx h22 turbo(ITS GONE!)
93 CB 4dr ex/se
85 Hilux 4x4(chevy 350)traded
80 Hilux 2wd still got it
73 Opel GT garage queen
92 cx hatch b16a ran into the ground
93 si hatch b16a type-r trans parted out
92 dx hatch fully built GSR "huge" fmi sold
09 4dr 4x4 Tacoma small lift daily beater
93 dx hatch b16a2 (old team rice car) was free!
thanx Ant and SOHC on dis.
there is definetally a differance from stock, especially with my stage 1 clutch and 12lb flywheel. im still running untunned and with a stock exhaust so there is a lot more power to be extracted out of it.
My whips!
97 eliteS 50cc sold
90 CB coupe lx h22 turbo(ITS GONE!)
93 CB 4dr ex/se
85 Hilux 4x4(chevy 350)traded
80 Hilux 2wd still got it
73 Opel GT garage queen
92 cx hatch b16a ran into the ground
93 si hatch b16a type-r trans parted out
92 dx hatch fully built GSR "huge" fmi sold
09 4dr 4x4 Tacoma small lift daily beater
93 dx hatch b16a2 (old team rice car) was free!
it still might be a little while untill i can get a tuned P06 from MRX and learn the whole art of tunning but ill try talking to a friend of mine who is attending a mechanic school where they supposebly have a dyno. if they do ill try to get some numbers. the motor stock is 160hp/148tq at the crank. only mods are the 12lb flywheel/stage 1 clutch, buddy club voltage condenser and SRI. running a cb9 wagon tranny (for future turbo). with at 10% loss thru the tranny im looking at about 150-155hp. thats all hypothetical untill i dyno tho. im certain that a better map from MRX and an exhaust will help.
the gear ratios are very close between other cb7 trannies but for some reason the one that was used for the wagon had some gears slightly longer, not by much but slightly longer. i guess maybe bc of the greater weight
shorter gears are good if you wanna go N/A but for turbo you want longer gearing so you can stay in boost longer thus why im keeping the F tranny since id like to boost in the future. even with the F tranny the motor pulls really strong
motor is almost identical to H23 except for displacement. F22B = 2.2L - H23 = 2.3L
shorter gears are good if you wanna go N/A but for turbo you want longer gearing so you can stay in boost longer thus why im keeping the F tranny since id like to boost in the future. even with the F tranny the motor pulls really strong
myth. its all in personal preference. do you want fast acceleration or do you wana have high speeds but with a bit lower acceleration?
myth or no myth i like the f tranny so im keeping it. i like the way it feels and the gearing.
i already put on 600 miles on the new motor since the install so its time for an oil/filter change and check over everything and i should be all good before i leave for school. wed3k, did you remember to bleed your coolant when you added or put it in? i forgot that and i had a huge air pocket that caused the temp to go up. after i bled it it was all good. as for the useless shit p/s is gone and im thinking of ditching the c/c too since its not working and i bearly use it anyway. a/c is staying bc here when it gets over 90 and the humid is 100% the car is an oven even with the windows oven.
resurecting this thread for gloryaccord in case he has any questions with the swap.
its been little over 3 months since the swap and the car is running great. gets me about 30mpg on 89 octane gas. i have driven it to and back from school (200 miles each way) few times and it runs like a dream and pulls well. I need a header and an exhaust really bad but money is tight while in school. Maybe ill get a megan header from ebay for now around thanksgiving. right now there is a small hole in the downpipe. other than that im glad i went with F22B and recomend it to anyone as a H22 alternative
Do you need the higher octane for the F22B, Pete? I know the H22 needs it for the higher compression, but I thought the F22B was good with 87. Either way, it's a good motor. For the price, it's a nice bump in power, with some decent aftermarket options! If I get another CB7, I'm considering going the F22B DOHC route myself.
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