I actually have an F22A4 with a generic short ram and a full-length 2.25" mandrel-bent exhaust with cat and dual-outlet muffler. Dynojet tested at 108hp 117lbs/ft. P12 ECU. I will most likely finish up with a cam upgrade, but I don't know whether to go with an F22A6 cam or a Bisi stage 1 cam. This is my dd so I can't get too carried away. I can afford either cam, so don't ask about my budget. I'm not looking at too much in the way of performance, just enough for the occasional romp with fellow CB7 tuners or for passing road trains or the little old lady who decides to slam on her brakes every time someone pulls in front of her.
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F22A1 with full I/H/E...A6 cam or bisi Stage 1?
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F22A1 with full I/H/E...A6 cam or bisi Stage 1?
My little girl
1991 CB7 Accord EX
F22A4 with P12 ECU on the stock four-speed automatic
K&N E-0774 air filter in place of airbox
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
Sony CDX GT640UI head unit
6.5" 2-way Alpine Type S up front
6x9's 3-way Alpine Type S in back
MTX Terminator 600W peak 50W RMS 4-channel ampTags: None
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Originally posted by Accrdwgnguy View PostGo for the stage 2, my Gude cam has similar specs to the stg2 and its very tame and streetable, plus I run it on a PT6 with 87 gas and it runs just fine.
My little girl
1991 CB7 Accord EX
F22A4 with P12 ECU on the stock four-speed automatic
K&N E-0774 air filter in place of airbox
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
Sony CDX GT640UI head unit
6.5" 2-way Alpine Type S up front
6x9's 3-way Alpine Type S in back
MTX Terminator 600W peak 50W RMS 4-channel amp
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Remap
I don't think cam upgrades without tuning are a good idea.
Your ecu will only remap for part throttle, WOT it will go with stock fuel settings.
This is not a good thing, plus I am assuming that the bisi stage anything recommends degreeing, which means it will not be a drop in and go anything.
Tuning is one of if not the most important aspect to true modification of a vehicle, anything past I/H/E and I say the next step should be tuning.
I am not trying to discourage you, but that is my recommendation.
Also, you do not know the specs of the cams, listing duration and lift are only part of a true camshaft profile. I do not know much about bisi's camshaft levels, but if they are like any other manufacturer's, and I expect they are, then you will get more benefit out of a stage one then a stage 2.
There are many people out there that think a higher number on the camshaft means more power, but this is only true if you have the engine modifications to extract that power, otherwise you are sacrificing drive ability, and power.
EDIT: If I remember right, hondafan81 ran a bisi stage 2 and can tell you that it is not a throw it in and go ordeal LOL.
Look up his white project and see what I mean.Last edited by Ghetto_CB7; 09-29-2010, 10:53 PM.
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okay, final question. Is 108hp and 117lbs/ft at the wheels stock power or is it more/less than stock, and by how much?
My little girl
1991 CB7 Accord EX
F22A4 with P12 ECU on the stock four-speed automatic
K&N E-0774 air filter in place of airbox
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
Sony CDX GT640UI head unit
6.5" 2-way Alpine Type S up front
6x9's 3-way Alpine Type S in back
MTX Terminator 600W peak 50W RMS 4-channel amp
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Originally posted by Lakersfan24 View PostYou can run a stage 1 bisi cam and not have to tune. If you go with a stage 2 bisi cam you should also change the springs and retainers I think I saw I thread on this in the beginner section today you should take a look.
My little girl
1991 CB7 Accord EX
F22A4 with P12 ECU on the stock four-speed automatic
K&N E-0774 air filter in place of airbox
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
Sony CDX GT640UI head unit
6.5" 2-way Alpine Type S up front
6x9's 3-way Alpine Type S in back
MTX Terminator 600W peak 50W RMS 4-channel amp
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Who knows...
The only way to know is to find out what a stock f22 does on that dyno. Every dyno is different, and what is really important is the change in horsepower.
the top end of the f22 picks up well from exhaust, and the addition of f22a6 parts with h23 plenum, but again all the final numbers depend on a lot of things.
Engine health, elevation, temperature ect.
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Here is my dyno chart w/ the following mods:
F22A6
F22A4 Exhaust manifold
H23 IM w/ double stacked IAB plates (functional IABs, you can see their effect on the dyno graph)
2.25" catback exhaust (stock cat)
Cone intake filter
Originally posted by sweet91accordif aredy time i need to put something in cb7tuner. you guy need to me a smart ass about and bust on my spelling,gramar and shit like that in so sorry.
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Can I put the A6 head and cam on the A4 without upgrading the IM?
My little girl
1991 CB7 Accord EX
F22A4 with P12 ECU on the stock four-speed automatic
K&N E-0774 air filter in place of airbox
NGK Iridium IX spark plugs
Sony CDX GT640UI head unit
6.5" 2-way Alpine Type S up front
6x9's 3-way Alpine Type S in back
MTX Terminator 600W peak 50W RMS 4-channel amp
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^if there's nothing wrong w/ your head, don't bother, only things special about the a6 head are the valve springs and the camshaft. It's still a pt3 head casting like the a1 and a4. Do DEFINITELY plan to upgrade the IM, to either H23 or H/a6 hybrid, that will help alot.
Like Accrdwgnguy said, stage 2. I had a p12 running my JGE 240200 cam just fine w/ +5 psi fuel pressure, now have a chipped and street tuned p06, but the p12 did just fine w/ the cam. My cam is very streetable too, thought it wouldn't but once installed, it was fine. Might add, running original A6 valve springs which now have 200K on them, revving to 7K. Have 40K miles on the cam so far.
specs on the cam: intake- 402 lift, 254 duration, exhaust- 396 lift, 250 durationLast edited by Granite CB7; 09-30-2010, 07:56 PM.
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For the Bisimoto level 2 camshaft it is advised that you tune BUT it is not completely necessary. With this in mind you will see gains with the cam when you install it BUT you will maximize the capabilities of the cam by getting a tune with it!
What does this mean?
You will make power by installing the cam, you will maximize the power you can make by tuning with the cam.
Questions, comments, concerns?
Randy@Bisimoto.com
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Originally posted by Ghetto_CB7 View PostI don't think cam upgrades without tuning are a good idea.
Your ecu will only remap for part throttle, WOT it will go with stock fuel settings.
This is not a good thing, plus I am assuming that the bisi stage anything recommends degreeing, which means it will not be a drop in and go anything.
Tuning is one of if not the most important aspect to true modification of a vehicle, anything past I/H/E and I say the next step should be tuning.
I am not trying to discourage you, but that is my recommendation.
Also, you do not know the specs of the cams, listing duration and lift are only part of a true camshaft profile. I do not know much about bisi's camshaft levels, but if they are like any other manufacturer's, and I expect they are, then you will get more benefit out of a stage one then a stage 2.
There are many people out there that think a higher number on the camshaft means more power, but this is only true if you have the engine modifications to extract that power, otherwise you are sacrificing drive ability, and power.
EDIT: If I remember right, hondafan81 ran a bisi stage 2 and can tell you that it is not a throw it in and go ordeal LOL.
Look up his white project and see what I mean.
FYI, white project had a far more aggressive camshaft than Bisimoto level 2.
Based on OP's goals, seems like he should opt for PT6 camshaft and supporting upgrades, along with PT6 ECU. Anything else, he needs to budget more for tuning equipment and expenses any way you look at it.Last edited by HondaFan81; 10-04-2010, 11:17 AM.
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