is it possible to bend the block?

[jhoff]

Let me paint the picture.
I am bolting the trans back up to the block.

There are four bolts on the bottom.
There are five bolts on the bottom, two to the block and three to the mount.

Now when I was taking the trans out, I missed the top bottom bolt to mount it to the block. I broke the transmission from the block with a chisel.

Now I have no problem with the four top bolts, and four of the bottom bolts.
The fith bottom bolt that connects the trans to the block will not get any closer than a half inch from the block.
Could I have bent the block and not known it?

[dj_ender]

I highly doubt you bent the block, it would break first. Are you sure your clutch is aligned right? I had MAJOR issues because I didn't have an alignment tool, and the tranny would not bolt up all the way.

[jhoff]

I highly doubt you bent the block, it would break first. Are you sure your clutch is aligned right? I had MAJOR issues because I didn't have an alignment tool, and the tranny would not bolt up all the way.

Thanks for not deleting me, didnt know why it was being deleted.
Everything seems like its lining up. I have to remove the trans and line up the bolts on the flex plate, but everything else is lined up.

[dj_ender]

I didnt have an alignment tool when I did my rebuild so what I did was remove the starter, loosened all the bolts on the clutch, got the shaft to seat right, then used an offset 12pt 10mm wrench to tighten the bolts thru the starter hole. This is not the ideal way to do it because the bolts need to be torqued, but it's what I had at the time.

[reklipz]

If you never remove the pressure plate, there's really no need to go through all of this work unless you somehow let the transmission rest on the clutch and didn't remove it smoothly. The clutch disc shouldn't be moving any at all really, and then no need to remove the pressure plate and re-align.

OP: You're saying you tried to put the bolt back in, but it won't seat all the way? 1) The bolts aren't all the same length; make sure you have them in the proper positions. 2) Remove the bolt and use a flashlight to inspect the threads; use a tap to clean them up if they're damaged. You can measure the distance of the hole in the block, add the thickness of the bellhousing around the bolt, and then measure the depth of the bolt to make sure you've got the right bolt in the right hole and aren't bottoming out.

[jhoff]

Its only grabbing the first few threads, and we tried different bolts.
There is one that is shorter than the rest, but we know where that goes.
Ill look into the threads tonight when I get home. Good thought.

(its an auto trans btw)

[deevergote]

The thread was deleted the previous two times because "is it possible?" says NOTHING about the thread's contents. Now that you figured out how to make a title that gives a hint about what you need to know, the thread stays. Make sense?

And no, it's not possible to bend the block. It is thick aluminum, and you'd need a considerable amount of strength to bend it. It would likely crack long before anything bent, as Josh said.
Now, bending the input shaft is certainly possible.

[jhoff]

It does make sense, but the first time it was deleted I thought my computer glitched.

Then he sent me a PM, and ok I get it, so I fixed it.

I will take pics when I get home, go from there.

[toycar]

Doubt the block is bent at all. Im sure you could finagle it to be out of square, or untrue, but not a 1/2". Mabye ten thousands of an inch or less. I agree with deeve that you may have bent the input shaft. You might have damaged some other shit too.


The most likely answer is that the bolt ruined the threads as you forced the tranny to seperate from the engine. Im sure the bolt/threads are softer than the input shaft. The deepest threads were probably the ones to strip, and once there was enough distance between the bell housing and the block the bolt started to bend or break. I imagine this is when you brought the chizel into the equation.


My opinion, the threads on the block probably need some lovin

[jhoff]

Doubt the block is bent at all. Im sure you could finagle it to be out of square, or untrue, but not a 1/2". Mabye ten thousands of an inch or less. I agree with deeve that you may have bent the input shaft. You might have damaged some other shit too.


The most likely answer is that the bolt ruined the threads as you forced the tranny to seperate from the engine. Im sure the bolt/threads are softer than the input shaft. The deepest threads were probably the ones to strip, and once there was enough distance between the bell housing and the block the bolt started to bend or break. I imagine this is when you brought the chizel into the equation.


My opinion, the threads on the block probably need some lovin

I wish I could post pictures from work.
I re pulled the new "used" trans, and checked the threads, the bolt went in that hole with out any issues.
So we moved the transmission back in, but I am still cocked eyed. It seems like the back of the transmission needs to move twords the firewall. I just have to figure out why and how. I dont have anything tighted down, not even the transmission mount. it may need to rotate as well. Anyone else have issues?

Once this is in, Im done. Just need to replace the driveside cv and replace fluids. Shes done, on the road.

[Granite CB7]

Could 1 or both dowels be either ovalized or chewed up w/ burrs preventing the trans from going in all the way? I mean, it's a very exact fit, and if it's not round or hacked up, it'll def. not fit at all. Def. check all the dowels!!!

[jhoff]

ill double check it, but when i lasted look there were all good to go.
i think I am going to try to stick a pipe in the front and try to push the ass twords the back.

[Granite CB7]

^alright, please check on all your "sliding" parts though, even the splines on the trans itself. There aren't that many things that will hold you back from easily sliding the trans right on, if you really need to force it, there's something still wrong.

Slightly OT, but I once made the mistake of not checking the splines on a brand new Action clutch disk, could not get the trans to go on, about a 1/4-1/2 left to go, would not budge any more. Had to tear it all back down, come to find out, the splines were not machined straight through, there was a huge burr @ the end, had to clean them up w/ a file. Then it literally slid right on w/o any real effort. A lesson was learned that day, double check your sliding parts.

[jhoff]

the tourqe converter should slide up and down freely right?
i cant turn turn the flywheel with out turning the flexplate, it should spin freely, if its not bolted right?

[Granite CB7]

I've only yanked autos, never installed one, but yes, the TC should slide on and off nicely. Should be able to spin easily too before it is bolted up to the flexplate.