Hello everyone the fast idle thermo valve in my 92' Accord LX Automatic broke when we where changing the hoses during a recent service. The car had been having idle problems recently and I think it was tied to the FITV, due to it being extremly clogged. My question is would it be easier to just delete the IACV and FITV completely from the car or go out and replace the FITV with an oem equivalent coming in at $130 from local import shop. I only really need the bottom portion of the FITV, where the two hoses connect to the little pipes. It come in at $20-$40 whole off ebay parts (which I've never or plan on using) and it could possibly be free with it being so small i could just pocket it from a local junk yard. Let me stress that I'm on a budget and the less i have to spend the better!
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IACV and FITV Delete
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When I brought that up in your other thread I was referring to deleting the coolant lines, but leaving the valves. Like so:
My intake will look a little different, I have an H23 plenum and throttle body, my FITV is under the throttle body. What you do is remove the coolant lines that go from the thermostat housing to the valves, then loop the 2 nipples that are left open on the thermostat housing. Then you still need to open up the FITV and tighten down the white plunger inside.Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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Originally posted by '93CB7Ex View Posti blocked my fitv off. shit blew apart on the way home. used a coke can and made a plate then bolted the fitv back on top. no problems since. the iacv though i would keep. usually a good cleaning and its ready to work again for a while.
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Originally posted by dj_ender View PostWhen I brought that up in your other thread I was referring to deleting the coolant lines, but leaving the valves. Like so:
My intake will look a little different, I have an H23 plenum and throttle body, my FITV is under the throttle body. What you do is remove the coolant lines that go from the thermostat housing to the valves, then loop the 2 nipples that are left open on the thermostat housing. Then you still need to open up the FITV and tighten down the white plunger inside.
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Yes, you will be removing the flow of coolant to the IACV and FITV, and they will remain functional. The thermostat housing is here:
And don't forget to bleed the coolant system after you do this:
Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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I never had great success running the FITV without coolant. The heat in the engine bay isn't enough to close the valve right away, stays open way too long and idle bounces.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=148849
IACV, sure, that doesn't need coolant. For those w/ a throttle body that doesn't have a FITV on it, the t/b doesn't need coolant either, it'll keep it cooler as well.
My final setup years ago was deleted IACV (block plate on plenum, valve still connected but tucked behind upper timing cover) and functional FITV w/ brass shutoff's before and after the FITV incase I wanted to block the coolant to cool the t/b.
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I've never had an issue with deleting the coolant lines. It might have to do with the climate you live in, the coolant is there to keep the valves warm for cold climates. I don't live in a super cold area, so I can get away with it, as does the OP.Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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Originally posted by dj_ender View PostI've never had an issue with deleting the coolant lines. It might have to do with the climate you live in, the coolant is there to keep the valves warm for cold climates. I don't live in a super cold area, so I can get away with it, as does the OP.
Originally posted by illinois_erik View PostGreat idea. me steal. tnx.
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Originally posted by Granite CB7 View PostDo it! I got them from Lowe's in the plumbing section, IIRC they were made by Watts and they were all brass which was nice. They were designed to be used w/ compression fittings but I dremeled the threads off to achieve roughly a 5/16" OD for the coolant line to slip over and clamp too, like a barb. Worked out very well and it was a clean install since the valves were so darn small too.
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