3k rpm bog...wtf

[Soufkackicustom]

91 cb9 auto.

Yesterday I pulled out of a driveway, I had my radio on, but noticed I wasn't going past 3k rpm. I let off the gas, and eased back into it, and it went like normal. I was thinking instantly, tranny slipping.

Then last night, did the same thing. Except this time I didn't have the radio on, and all the windows were down. It sounded like the engine was missing. Traffic was coming, and it wouldn't go. I burped the gad a few times, and it took off.

So this morning, I take it out, and get on it, trying to replicate the problem. It dose fine.

Car had full tune up less than 6k miles ago. Iam going to gut the cat now, we don't have emissions in my state. While iam at it, ill pull the cap and check for oil and on the plugs. i have No cel.

Any ideas?

[mtnbikaah]

What was done in your full tune up?

[Soufkackicustom]

Went and checked for a stored cel code, jumped the connector and the light just stayed solid

[Soufkackicustom]

What was done in your full tune up?

Cap, wires, plugs, all fluids. The timing belt and oil pump were done 30k ago.........the fuel filter was "supposed" the be changed when I had it serviced, they did all of it, flushed the tranny, air filter and all when I got the car

[toycar]

Cap, wires, plugs, all fluids. The timing belt and oil pump were done 30k ago.........the fuel filter was "supposed" the be changed when I had it serviced, they did all of it, flushed the tranny, air filter and all when I got the car

Map sensor may be failing, fuel pressor reg could be giving you issues, fuel filter maybe.


Lots of variable. Sometimes the ignitor will cause symptoms like this before it fails. Try and narrow down the cause (like what scenario provokes the reaction) and that should help. It sucks when stuff like this is going on irregularly.

[reklipz]

Went and checked for a stored cel code, jumped the connector and the light just stayed solid

Check to ensure the wires aren't open somewhere along the line, i.e. check to make sure that jumping the connector actually shorted the two wires all the way to the ECM.

Solid light means no codes.

[Soufkackicustom]

Got the cat out....hold it up, and see the sun..... Well that's not it.....hell it out, Iam gut it anyways

[reklipz]

Got the cat out....hold it up, and see the sun..... Well that's not it.....hell it out, Iam gut it anyways

If the honeycomb is broken, or gutted, replace the cat.

[Soufkackicustom]

It's not, it actually looks like a replacement. I don't have emissions testings, so why not gut it?

[reklipz]

You know why not to gut it. You tell me why you feel it's worth ruining a perfectly good cat, as well as the other implications of gutting it.

[Soufkackicustom]

I can see a lot more done through it now. Just did a little clean up with a air chisel. If this fixes my problem, I'll go get a new one

[wed3k]

usually a cloged cat is pretty consistent. does the tach jump past 3k? maybe an early sign of an ignitor?

[Soufkackicustom]

The gutted cat is back in. The first thing I noticed, no vibration in reverse. Since I had the car it vibrated in reverse and it sounded like a heat shield clanging. I just thought the rear motor mount was bad. And I guess pulling on the exhaust pulled what ever heat shield away from what it was hitting. Before gutting the cat, I held it up, and could see thorough it, about a dime size of light. Now it snaps through the rpm range, and seems to have a much quicker throttle response down low. In the upper rpm's, I wouldn't know....never had the car above 5k. But it didn't act up, so I guess time will tell if that was my problem or not. I've scheduled to have the valves adjusted, and new o rings and valve cover gasket put on it, since I found some oil on one of the plug wires. I guess either it was put in wrong of was bad, because I had them replaced when I had the car tuned up. I'll have them put a new fuel filter on it too, figured I'd get it all do e while they are putting on my shocks and aligning it.

[Soufkackicustom]

usually a cloged cat is pretty consistent. does the tach jump past 3k? maybe an early sign of an ignitor?

It's only done it twice. Once yesterday morning, once last night. Last night it was 3k and that was it, it wasn't going anymore. But there's not a ton of times I'll get into the 3k range quickly. I drive like a grandma. Mainly because I don't like tickets, I don't like beating on my shit, and I got big ass wheels (20's) and potholes suck. The last car I worked on with a clogged cat was a Buick le saber. It would loose power in the 4k range, but they managed to drive it 3 hours back at 55mph with out issue

[Soufkackicustom]

Check to ensure the wires aren't open somewhere along the line, i.e. check to make sure that jumping the connector actually shorted the two wires all the way to the ECM.

Solid light means no codes.

If I pull the jumper out and cycle the key normally, the light stays on for a few seconds and goes off. It's never came on while driving. Since I remote start the car every time, I had to check this morning to make sure the light wasn't burned out by starting it with the key. It was a one owner car (professor at unc) and I got it from her son, all he did was lower it, put on some 15" wheels and change the radio. I had all the mantience records since new from the Honda dealership she bought it from. Everything in the car works, cruise, rear window washer and all except the rear defrost (I see the break in it on the window) and the a/c( I put a hole in the condenser swapping the fans/radiator/cooling system when I got it...I've also replaced every bushing and suspension component except the shocks, I got em....just ain't had time to put them on)