This is to document the way I go about removing/installing the motor/transaxle assembly from my cars. I'm currently doing this work for a few reasons. The photos will come slowly and I might miss taking a picture here and there but I will write out the entire process step by step. Sorry for a million edits, I should have typed this in a text document first.
NOTE:
My pictures don't match the procedure exactly, but it is because I am fixing a slew of other problems all at once. I do this to any used car I purchase, especially 20+ year old ones.
Tools used:
Metric sockets shallow and deep with matching ratchets
24" breaker bar
Engine Hoist
Torque wrench
Screwdrivers
Jack and Jack Stands
Prybar
Step 1
Disconnect and remove the battery and battery tray that is under the battery.
Step 2
I remove the hood, you don't really have to, but I like to be able to crawl around in the bay to get to hard to reach areas. I scrawl a small mark around the hinge plate before unbolting so I can line it back up with the hood release latch with little effort. (I left it on for a while on this car in the photos to cover the motor until it was time to use the hoist because I was working slow on the car when I had spare time).
Step 3
Lift the car up and place it on jack stands. Remove the plastic engine splash guard if you have one under your car. When doing this I remove the oil cap and drain the oil from the motor. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in the oil pan. I do not re-use this fluid so be prepared with new fluid for install. When re-installing into the car prior to adding fresh oil use a new OEM oil pan bolt washer.
Step 4
Using the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator I drain all of the coolant from the lines that I can. If your fluid is relatively new, or tests to be good coolant I re-use the coolant by catching it in a clean container when re-installing the motor. Remove the radiator cap to help it drain faster, and be sure to inspect the cap for failure. Once the radiator is drained I disconnect the radiator hoses and fans and remove the radiator. A/T equipped cars must unscrew the ATF coolant lines and plug them.
Step 5
Drain the transmission fluid. I do not re-use this fluid so be prepared with new fluid for install. On manual transmissions remove the filler plug and on automatics remove the dipstick to assist draining. The drain plug is located on the bottom of the transmission.
Step 6
Remove the air ducting and filter box.
Your bay may look something like this at this point (of course with more parts attached still, you don't need to take the whole front apart like I did.):
Step 7
Release the pressurized fuel from the fuel rail by placing a wrench on the banjo nut on the left end of the fuel rail and slowly turning it. Place a rag over the wrench for the fuel to spray on, instead of you and the motor/bay. When the pressure is released you can then remove the line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail. Also remove the fuel return line on the opposite side of the fuel rail.
Fuel supply:
Fuel return:
Step 8
Remove the vacuum control box from the firewall, do not disconnect the vacuum hoses to the motor. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the charcoal canister and the two electrical plugs. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the charcoal canister to the throttle body.
Step 9
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body by loosening the adjustment nut and pulling the cable free. Don't kink this cable or you will have to replace it.
Step 10
Remove the cruise control actuator, there is a plug, a drain hose, and a vacuum line to disconnect. Then there are two 10mm bolts on the bracket. Don't disconnect the cable, just lay it out of the way.
Step 11
Disconnect the brake booster hose from the intake manifold. If equipped also disconnect the auto transmission mount vacuum line.
Step 12
Disconnect the ground wire from the transmission to the car body. At the fuse box under the hood disconnect the positive cable to the alternator. Then unplug the three big wire harness plugs next to the fuse box. On the other side of the car there are two other wire harness plugs to unplug and another ground wire from the pump bracket and valve cover to the body that needs the be unbolted.
M/T ground bracket:
Step 13
P/S
Step 14
A/C Alt and Harmonic balancer
Step 15
Heater core hoses
Step 16
VSS
Step 17
Center beam
Step 18
Exhaust
Step 19
Axles
Step 20a (manual transmission)
Clutch release hose & shift cable
Step 20b (automatic transmission)
Shift cable
Step 21
Attach engine hoist
Step 22
Remove mounts
Step 23
Lift motor
Steps 24-XX
Install info and torque specs.
More to come and pictures to follow.
Tips:
Always thread the bolt back into the threaded hole after removing the part so you never lose the bolt or forget where it came from.
Now is a good time to replace axles and other major wear items.
It's also a good time to check over the motor and transmission while they are out of the car and look for signs of failure of seals or mechanical/electrical assemblies.
NOTE:
My pictures don't match the procedure exactly, but it is because I am fixing a slew of other problems all at once. I do this to any used car I purchase, especially 20+ year old ones.
Tools used:
Metric sockets shallow and deep with matching ratchets
24" breaker bar
Engine Hoist
Torque wrench
Screwdrivers
Jack and Jack Stands
Prybar
Prior to power plant removal.
THREAD UNDER CONSTRUCTION
MORE PHOTOS AND TEXT TO COME
Step 1
Disconnect and remove the battery and battery tray that is under the battery.
Step 2
I remove the hood, you don't really have to, but I like to be able to crawl around in the bay to get to hard to reach areas. I scrawl a small mark around the hinge plate before unbolting so I can line it back up with the hood release latch with little effort. (I left it on for a while on this car in the photos to cover the motor until it was time to use the hoist because I was working slow on the car when I had spare time).
Step 3
Lift the car up and place it on jack stands. Remove the plastic engine splash guard if you have one under your car. When doing this I remove the oil cap and drain the oil from the motor. Don't forget to put the drain plug back in the oil pan. I do not re-use this fluid so be prepared with new fluid for install. When re-installing into the car prior to adding fresh oil use a new OEM oil pan bolt washer.
Step 4
Using the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator I drain all of the coolant from the lines that I can. If your fluid is relatively new, or tests to be good coolant I re-use the coolant by catching it in a clean container when re-installing the motor. Remove the radiator cap to help it drain faster, and be sure to inspect the cap for failure. Once the radiator is drained I disconnect the radiator hoses and fans and remove the radiator. A/T equipped cars must unscrew the ATF coolant lines and plug them.
Step 5
Drain the transmission fluid. I do not re-use this fluid so be prepared with new fluid for install. On manual transmissions remove the filler plug and on automatics remove the dipstick to assist draining. The drain plug is located on the bottom of the transmission.
Step 6
Remove the air ducting and filter box.
Your bay may look something like this at this point (of course with more parts attached still, you don't need to take the whole front apart like I did.):
Step 7
Release the pressurized fuel from the fuel rail by placing a wrench on the banjo nut on the left end of the fuel rail and slowly turning it. Place a rag over the wrench for the fuel to spray on, instead of you and the motor/bay. When the pressure is released you can then remove the line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail. Also remove the fuel return line on the opposite side of the fuel rail.
Fuel supply:
Fuel return:
Step 8
Remove the vacuum control box from the firewall, do not disconnect the vacuum hoses to the motor. Disconnect the vacuum hose to the charcoal canister and the two electrical plugs. Then disconnect the vacuum hose from the charcoal canister to the throttle body.
Step 9
Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body by loosening the adjustment nut and pulling the cable free. Don't kink this cable or you will have to replace it.
Step 10
Remove the cruise control actuator, there is a plug, a drain hose, and a vacuum line to disconnect. Then there are two 10mm bolts on the bracket. Don't disconnect the cable, just lay it out of the way.
Step 11
Disconnect the brake booster hose from the intake manifold. If equipped also disconnect the auto transmission mount vacuum line.
Step 12
Disconnect the ground wire from the transmission to the car body. At the fuse box under the hood disconnect the positive cable to the alternator. Then unplug the three big wire harness plugs next to the fuse box. On the other side of the car there are two other wire harness plugs to unplug and another ground wire from the pump bracket and valve cover to the body that needs the be unbolted.
M/T ground bracket:
Step 13
P/S
Step 14
A/C Alt and Harmonic balancer
Step 15
Heater core hoses
Step 16
VSS
Step 17
Center beam
Step 18
Exhaust
Step 19
Axles
Step 20a (manual transmission)
Clutch release hose & shift cable
Step 20b (automatic transmission)
Shift cable
Step 21
Attach engine hoist
Step 22
Remove mounts
Step 23
Lift motor
Steps 24-XX
Install info and torque specs.
More to come and pictures to follow.
Tips:
Always thread the bolt back into the threaded hole after removing the part so you never lose the bolt or forget where it came from.
Now is a good time to replace axles and other major wear items.
It's also a good time to check over the motor and transmission while they are out of the car and look for signs of failure of seals or mechanical/electrical assemblies.
THREAD UNDER CONSTRUCTION
MORE PHOTOS AND TEXT TO COME